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Posts posted by sluggy
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I have done 70k in 2014 ranger. never had an issue with it.Hate the 1st gear lag but this can be sorted by some non warranty computer genius. 1st set of tyres are now approaching race slick spec.
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Have been doing a bit on this. Tinware is just about done barring a couple of naca duct holes then out for powdercoat , fire system is in. Have ordered pushrods, springs, retainers, keepers, spare bearings, new rod bolts and have sorted rocker geometry, friends with mills are good friends to have. Wiring is sorted to the engine plug, really just the plug to engine to do, its a short run so shouldn't be long. 4mm steel plate welded in pedal area - floor pan was super flexi. Getting all the flexi brake/clutch lines remade as they have been in the car a while.
Really not that far away... famous nearly last words.... March 2017.
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Since the engine is apart, heads have gone to Marsh, there was .018" difference in seat heights so this is all being sorted. Changing the cam, decided I might as well maximise the potential, the heads are good for around 300hp NA based on the flow numbers, so biggy upsized to 280 @ .050" lifting .611" at the valve. Potentially good for 600 + ish hp at the flywheel. So will remove boost to make it tractable.
The 10th December is now a distant memory unfortunately. The pushrods I need (7/16 tapered) have to be cut to length in the US (the only way they will sell them to me), so need to get cam, set up geometry (currently miles out) then order pushrods. Also down speccing on valve spring size as they were way overkill triple K900's.
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Crank not cracked. Sigh of relief...
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Yeah, I was pretty keen on the programmable digital one but this is the stocker, runs mint though. Very happy to throw another 009 in the bin.
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Engine Porn post...
A few issues found - "New Moldex Crank" .010" under on the mains, so its off to be crack tested. Heads are way over sprung, approx .770" to bind on the springs, only lifting .500" and the valve stem heights arent all equal, so off to the shop to recut the seats and sort the heights, then sort the valve geometry, and once I get lifts finalised, buy new springs, retainers, and sort from there... So not as clean and clear as I was hoping for.
Maybe it is just me, but reputable people in the states have generally stuck it to me.
And the Taipan has received twin 34mm carbs, digital disi and a 4 into 1 exhaust.. Running sweet now. At least one is nearly ready for Drag day !
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Fuel line test today and, no leaks in the tunnel (thank fark ) but the one fitting I always knew was a bit dodgey, leaked like a sieve... Bonus is had a good time huffing gas fumes all arvo, sweet deal.
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Shes a goer, line lok working now too.
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b573/55slug/th_IMG_0780_zps1hvx4l6w.mp4
Doing the extinguisher shuffle
Fuel pump controller - so its not running full noise unless it needs to
Pretty much have all the bits I think. Still a bit to do, big push on this month...
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Hopefully this link works....
https://www.facebook.com/RevistaAutodynamics/videos/1069033936544766/
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Yeah Mate, its a Taipan... I had been looking for a beach buggy, but they are stupid expensive, this thing is insanely good condition/road legal for the money, and its all been done well. Was re registered after being certed as a scratchbuilt in 2013.
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Because I am marginally retarded, I bought another car I cant fit in
Its all road legal/certified/homologated/running - bought it as a project for the kids (14 and 17) and because the 80s bring back awesome memories for me (apart from the hairdressers I went out with).
Long term plan
1. Wrap it in a 60s can am style
2. See if I can fit by doing extra yoga, and moving seat/installing beer crate
3. Gearbox, beef up a bit/LSD (skid value)
4. Engine - 1915ccs, twin IDA's (can am style trumpets through the deck), Hi lift and duration cam (FK89), and about 12:1 compression.
5. Do skids.
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Soooo, have actually been doing some work on it, wiring with the help of Stu, made my life a million times easier, nearly sorted the power feed side of it (front seats forward bit
And I am never allowed to go to the speedshow again because this happened
And clutch finally got here, twin plate small diameter set up, so now Ill tear the engine down, get the crank reebalanced with this, check all the oil clearances cause I didnt build it initially, and respring the heads, cause they are over americanised (triple springs)
Season is creeping up on me again, but Im feeling motivated to make it this year...
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I had a 2008 Ranger, 250ks on it, manual 2wd, never had any issues with it, routinely towed heavy trailers with cars on them etc... Now have a 2015 Ranger with 60ks on the clock, much better long range wagon, mega comfortable ride. But with half a ton of DG,s in the back it is a bit light in the steering. Both Double cabs. The early one is good for kids in the back but probably a squeeze for full size people - tiny doors.
Both were/have been mega reliable - never had a break down.
Ive had colorado's and hilux's in the past, the colorado was very agricultural, and the hilux comparatively (to the ranger) gutless.
Im a Ford/BT50 proponent fer sure.
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Slicks are listed as overall height ie 26" x 10.50 wide on a 15" rim. So side wall height will be 26 - 15 /2 so roughly A 5.5" wall height.
Alistair, on 04 Apr 2016 - 07:55 AM, said:
Can someone explain these MT sizings: https://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.php?item=ETStreet
Like the first one:
90000000967 3752 26X10.50-15LT 20 M5 90000000289 8 10.5 8.3 26.182
I'm assuming it's to go on a 15" x 8" wheel, but whats section width vs tread width? Says tread is 8.3 so it's a 210 wide tyre? Whats the sidewall height?
Basically trying to get some drag wheels/tyres for the rear of the KE20. Easy if I can keep the 17's on the front and run something on the rear but if I went 15's with a drag tyre do I need to try and keep the overall diameter of a 15 & tyre close to that of the 17 & tyre on the front so it's not reverse raked?
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Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 3400 pounds and HP of 400 is11.89 seconds and MPH of 113.69 MPH - Supra lard arse
Your ET / MPH computed from your vehicle weight of 1500 pounds and HP of 200 is11.40 seconds and MPH of 118.53 MPH. - Skinny Blonde
http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php
Light is good. Buy a beach buggy.
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Ive used tech edge ones for years - economy model here - http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm - They are really accurate and reliable in my experience.
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Light car and some HP. My old VW weighed 750kgs, had 200 Hp at the flywheel and ran a 12.4.
You dont need 4 - 500 Hp to run 11s. More than possible NA, keep it simple, make it launch.
Cheap Im not good at, but Im sure its possible.
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Meremere Dragway
12.4@174kph - 1.6 60ft time - Sluggy - 55 VW - Dot legal slicksShame I ate a camshaft/lifters ran bearings in this motor, had more in it.
2442 ccs, 10.5:1 comp, IDA's, street driven.
And the new car doesnt go still.
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Sluggy's 62 Chev C20
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
I have been looking around for a while for a new work truck, wanted to go old school and update it to modern running gear and some creature comforts. I didnt have much of an idea but liked the look of older Chev trucks, did some reading and looking and got to this point. Truck will be in the country mid April, it is currently running a 327 and manual gearbox, and pretty much stock apart from that. Plan is to get it complied with existing running gear then modernise a wee bit. I have an LS3 and 6L80 trans and all associated wires and mechanical stuff in my warehouse now (cart before horse) and maybe a front end suspension transplant from a later truck and a diff with a lower ratio. this one will be either a 4.11 or 4.56 ish I believe, so a bit on the highside.
While the intention wasn't to start/have another project, Im quite fizzed up about it. Going to keep it stock looking, no fancy wheels or any of that crap. Will get some hand painted signage on it, I want it to look like it was always there.