sluggy

been "smashing" wiring. I hate it with a passion... ECU all done, front end all rewired, motor sorted, speedo digi to analog thing done... still to finish off the a/c, cruise control, shifter stuff, and the rear end - fuel pump, lights etc...  Room is an issue under the dash... I went a bit loose with the shifter, its a pcs electronic deal. Still have no idea on where to mount it, was thinking of an art deco style goose neck attached to the dash, space odyssey kinda deal.

Dog looks on with interest

Dropped off the drive shaft today to Russell. Top bloke !!

Does anyone on here have any 17" + chev rims (5 x 4.75") and tyres I could use/borrow ? Have done the rear swap to 5 stud and the fronts will be arriving soon to do that. Trying to sort wheels but not having a lot of luck at the moment....

Im Torn... The ratio in the current diff is 4.56:1 which is way to high, I can get a 3.14 for this which would be sweet, but, LSD's are virtually unobtanium for this year, and Id have to do a bit of a work around on parking brakes, cause theres no provision for these, it did have a drive shaft mounted drum..... So I can swap to a C10 diff (photo 2) throw an eaton tru track in there and do 11's. 

But the C10 diff looks sooo whimpy, the C20 is 8 stud, and manly, but single spinner... Thoughts ?

Gratuitous outdoor shot because.

Turned left after doing a bit more reading. Made front mounts and a trans mount. Assuming I have all my measurements right, its in the middle, and I have about 1.3 degrees slope on the 1st section of driveshaft which is where it needs to be according to the interweb. Im swapping the rear end to a 12 bolt, so I can set up the pinion angle. Been pretty productive really ! All just tacked together at the moment. Everything is just sitting there in the photos, need to drill a few holes and bolt it all up.

not 100% happy with the trans effort and may rejig it a bit yet.

Any driveshaft type people on the Forum here, or contacts ? Need to get the 2 piece drive shaft rebuilt/biggy specced and shortened slightly to handle 400 powers.

Made some progress. Engine/tranny will fit without changing the front end, so Im not changing it. Cut a notch in the crossmember to get the box in the hole. This truck was a manual so has the high hump trans tunnel, so no cab modifications required. Rear output from the trans is about 4" further back than the original. Did a bit more research, and I will chop out the entire crossmember as it isnt needed, and I think I need to get the trans output down from where it is.

Its all just a mock up, hence the 1" sq thinwall spacer under the perch, but it looks like this will work, unless there is a reason why I shouldnt. The perch is out of a 77, and they are roughly 30mm deeper in the chassis rail, so spacer. The chances of finding a 62 perch is virtually nil, not many of these trucks were ordered with autos, and all the manuals use a horseshoe mount at the front of the engine and another mount at the rear of the bellhousing, no perches. The tranny mount in the photo is the original holden one, should be straight forward to adapt that to the frame with a bit of angle and some gussets.

If anyone has anything to offer in the way of driveline geometry advice that would be cool. Ive been playing with transaxle based shit for toooo long, and Im an old dog to boot, cant train etc. Driveshaft is a two piece, so its set from the centre bearing to the rear axle, and I really shouldve got a measurement on the output of the old box before removal... duh...

Its the length too, they are 11.53" long, seat pressure is 435lbs and .620" lift (820lbs at full lift) - 280 duration at .050" so its a pretty aggressive grind. Mechanical roller lifters. 

Ive seen scuffing on 3/8" chromolly pushrods on other VW engines I have built with a lot less spring pressure than the above and only spinning to 7500 ish rpm.

With your manifolds and stuff, I have some 8mm nuts that use a 3/8" socket to tighten them. Bought a hundred of them so drop in and grab them, Im in the workshop tomorrow bro !!

Just in case anyone has been thinking.... I wonder what happened to this. I have hit a major curve. The holes in the heads that the pushrods pass through are making contact with the pushrods at about 3/4 lift... File it out I hear you say, but alas, these need to seal against the pushrod tube seal, and they have already been moved so they are hard against the valve cover rail. And welding and machining opens a whole new can of worms.

So to "fix" the interference issue, I will be reassembling, trying the set up with the old smaller cam and maybe go to a different ratio rocker if the adjusting screw centreline is closer to the pivot point, and hopefully I can find enough clearance to make it work. I can probably sort it and have crappy rocker arm geometry, Ill go there if I have too. Pushrods are 1/2" diameter and tapered at the ends.

Because this engine is not exactly off the shelf, Pauter (the manufacturers) were contacted, they no longer have castings made and all their current heads are billet at the amazing price of $8k usd a pair (holy fuck is the correct expletive here). Unfortunately if plan A fails this is where I am at, which is why I have mothballed it for a while. This week, next weekend Ill get it together and start trying shit. 

Got wood ?

Yeah not rusty. The car used to be dried in the shed with tea towels if it rained while they were out in it. Less than a year old in that pic, Washington I think.

34 minutes ago, locost_bryan said:

Do you have any photos of the car in NZ, or rego details here?  NZTA may be able to do a search on the VIN or chassis number (for a fee), if it was still registered when the rego system was computerised (early 1990s iirc).

Yeah we have approximately 3000 ish 35mm slides to trawl through, Ill see what I can come up with

In 1961 my Mum bought a 4 door RHD Falcon in Canada. In 1962 she left the states and brought the car back here. In about 65 the car was sold to help fund the purchase of a house. The photos are of a slide with my Grandma, card of the guy she bought it off, bill of sale, and shipping docs bringing it back to NZ.

Chances are its long gone, but who knows. I tried the numberplate in carjam and comes up as something else. Any ideas/leads on tracking it down appreciated. The vin no as per the title is 580923-758A-61R which is numbers short of what car jam wants...

As per the build thread (which is lame) nearly complied, have later front and rear ends, 5 stud and goes to a coil over rather than the torsion front end. Im pretty sure the Ls/6l80 combo wont squeeze between the torsion bars/front suspension set up. The box is a monster.

As pe build post, kleen to talk to people who are up for doing front suspension swap and engine swap - would like it done in the next 3 months (not 4 years like the other project...)

Soo nearly complied,has seat belts brakes all sorted, authorities blah blah.

Ive been collecting a few bits, what has become blindingly clear to me is I have no time. So Im looking for someone to do some of this for me. Once its all complied, doing the LS swap, also all suspension, I will have a 78 front end and an 88 rear axle to chuck into it. Any suggestions around potential people to do some of the work would be great, preferably in aucks but can also road trip it.

I have the loom all reworked so the ecu will sit inside the cab, and a 3 wire hook up to make the magic happen. also have an hptuners set up for post install getting going so not looking for an electrical genius, Im happy to get that side of it happening.

Angus we need a planning committee meeting with beer and more wheels up pics !!

1 hour ago, k-trips said:

Fuck this is swish. Jealous. Also raising interest in buying your 327 and manual box if you are flicking it.

 

Also   http://www.artmorrison.com/2006cat/48.pdf

I will be selling the 327 and box. Will hopefully be 3 or 4 months away. Unsure of engine/gearbox goodness as yet.

Yeah, the options are limited in the 60 - 62 trucks. There is this option - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=366828 but I will need to check with the authorities. The plan was always to keep it stock to get it complied. Rebuild all the stock suspension, and see how it rides. Then do the conversion/cert stuff post that.

The later dellortos have an extra enrichment circuit at higher rpms via a pitot tube arrangement - probably be a better way to go. Definitely need the modulator rings, "turbo" gaskets (body gasket - not paper), and the emulsion tubes. Best to build an enclosure around them so the whole carb is pressurised, the dells wont deal with high fuel pressure in normal atmos conditions. 7 ish psi max is about where they run in turbo applications. It will be a ton of work, but like everything, its doable.