Sisu
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Posts posted by Sisu
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I am thinking of building car for the boys. One is 3 1/2 other is 6 months.
Now rather than just a beer crate and wheels off an old lawn mower. What would you have liked at 4-5 years old?
Just to get the ball rolling this was done here in Finland. The guy made a 2/3 size VW rod out of VW bits.
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Yeah it floats. Bro they advertised it back in the day! Watch and learn
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My Dad had a 1977 Lotus Elite in the early 80's, it had been repainted black with a Gold JPS logo. All I remember it had an interior that smelled of wet dog due to the leaks and it had flip up headlights bro!
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Father has a Norton 750 in bits in the garage since the mid 90's.
Both the brothers steal the bike and get it restored without him knowing. The nerdy one who makes this video photoshops a 70's magazine poster of the Norton, changing the text and a photo to his own bike. Thinking it is a nice gift, but he is revving the completed bike on the driveway.
Please note that this may be NSFW as it has grown men crying.
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You could build one in your garage alot of VW punters do. The wooden slats are handy as you don't scratch things as much as the metal racks. All you need is to get the metal cross beams bent or cut to shape. The gutter clamps are the only hard bit, they do sell repro ones.
But they are strong enough for a few people to sit on, or you just put a sofa up there.
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The fat chick Mk4 Golf is the least loved in the VW scene. Much like 70's VW bugs. That is pretty cheap for that sort of car thou.
Personally I would hold out for a MK5 with a DSG gearbox. They are much better, next test drive or even out of the showroom.
Just follow these 3 steps in a triangle for launch control.
-Put the gear lever into Sport
-Press the ESP on the dash so it is off.
-Put your left foot on the brake pedal, put your right foot flat to the floor on the gas.
The car will not over rev, it will hold it at around 4000 rpm where maximum tourque is, now you just slide your foot off the brake.
BANG - You will go off at maximum attack, slight wheel spin and best thing is you can do this all day without damage to the car.
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I would just buy a NZ new Golf and they will hold their value better. If you don't like it sell it.
Personally I am not sold on the Jap reliabilty thing at the moment.
My work truck which we bought from new, serviced at Toyota, now a 4 year old Toyota Hilux (the chur chur of reliablity) with 86,000km has just shat the waterpump and #3 cyl. The local Toyota branch has also said that the 4wd which we haven't used doesn't work anyway as there is something broken in the transfer box.
Meanwhile my wifes '96 golf wagon with 284,000 km, which gets all the shit work, I have done the services myself. I have only replaced a headlight bulb in the 5 yrs we have had it.
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No worries, it will turn out OK. Being able to find shit on the net or make a presentation using photoshop isn't as good as being able to see a solution in your head.
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I thought that míght be more useful as that was the look you were going for - charger on the left and turbo on the right.
I have seen the turbo behind the supercharger as pictured which is a Toyota 4agze 20v I think. But this is quite toasty.Either way you plumb it is up to you.
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The early Nissan March Superturbo (Micra K11 The square one) ran a supercharger/turbo on the 993cc engine. The Nissan Micra/March was an early working production car using this system, if a little small to transfer.
The Lancia S4 was a race car, so although admirable was experimental so to speak = $$$$$
But this is a diagram of the VW setup to help things. They run some diesel TDI pressure valves which handle the boost and are off the shelf. The main bit was the control valves move slow enough to allow a smooth transition for the turbo to spool up. Otherwise you get a dip or flatspot.
The clutch control for the supercharger was a VAG part that was used to switch A/C on and off. It shuts it off when the rpm/boost is up.
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I have done the "take the heater out as it is weight" thing.
Then found that I couldn't see on the inside as I didn't live in LA, but pissy weather NZ.
I have one of these fitted to my car.
I love it http://www.parkingheater.co.uk/products/parking-heater.html#teaser
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Those are really cool.
Has anyone considered making the plenium/airbox out of a clear plastic instead?
Acrylic would seem the winner, generally has by far the best ballance of properties, unless you use very specialised, expensive, modified grades of polycarbonate. Standard polycarbonate, also has very poor resistance to some very common automotive fluids, ie the aromatic hydrocarbons found in virtually all modern fuels. Which you would get in an airbox.
If you use acrylic drape forming is the process of heating a sheet of plastic until it sags and then draping it over a form shaped like the finished article. You could make a mold of the alloy one you have made. Then use these 2 halfs to make an inner mold. so you have this sort of thing (0) You use a heat resistant material such as a Hobby plaster you get at craft shops and you need either a frame or clamp the edges of the acrylic sheet as it will shrink and then stick it in the sandwich while it is being heated to 215 initially to get out the bubbles then to the mold temp of around 180 deg C.
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This is what the Germans did.
The front suspension on the 911. It is easy to lower or raise the suspension. The bars are splined to stop them rotating. You just unbolt the front bolts, pull them off and rotate them a spline or 2. No cutting required
This is it put on a VW Kombi
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They give you a fine here in Finland based on your monthly/yearly average.
Which hurts most people. They swipe your bankcard at the side of the road. Try doing the "wat u talkin about willis" and saying you have no money cause I'm broke or I'm a tax evader nah nah nah and they put you in the jail while they sell your car to cover the costs. -
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I know there are a few people who posted bits about 91 octane. But has anyone running on E10 bioethanol (10% ethanol blend) aka - Gull Force 10?
Alot of them run E85 (85% ethanol) here in Scandinavia and it is very popular amongst the hotrod/drift/race car scene as it burns cooler. Which means you can run a higher boost or compression. Is this 10% ethanol enough to show any changes?
Main disadvantages are that you need larger fuel lines/jets as the volume of fuel is larger than a normal petrol engine.
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Bloke builds a lambo over 17 years from scratch in the basement of his house, they have to knock down a wall to get it out.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/articles/Home-DIYer-TIG-welds-Lamborghini-Countach-in-basement
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I should post some of my conversions of old 60's/70's radios some time. I normally modify the old push button radios. I use the one of the AM buttons for FM channel and run a FM reciever with two micro switches stuch to the back of your indicator to scan up/down the FM digital(although no visual output) and then use the LW button to run a auxillary source. I stick a 3mm headphone jack in the side of the headunit. This means when ipods or what ever get upgraded or changed they can move with the times and just use the same cable.
I have used the ashtray as an ipod dock, this is popular as you can run a charger thru the plug in the bottom. But the output of the ipod base is at MAX so you need to run some sort of secondary volume control. Although the guy with the Plymouth is over the moon I am not as this got a little out of hand as the dock we used we also used the remote/amp so the ipod fitted in the ashtray and then a small remote changed volume/song. But I wasn't happy with it as you couldn't move around the ipod only the album/playlist. Also this means it he is stuck with that ipod.
Currently working on putting my brothers shift light into the surround of the speedo illumination using a off the shelf shift light from Aussie. http://www.shift-i.co.uk/main_win_sep06.html So that the speedo lights up and you can't see it unless he is kaning it, rather than a late 90's era shift light pod or LED's on the dash of a mid 60's car.
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I wanna get a set of Japanese number plates for the next project. I am lookin at early 80's. Any good places to start?
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Haynes: Rotate anti-clockwise
Translation: Clamp with mole grips then beat repeatedly with hammer anti-clockwise
Haynes: This is a snug fit
Translation: Clamp with mole-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer
Haynes: This is a tight fit
Translation: Clamp with mole-grips then beat repeatedly with a hammer
Haynes: As described in Chapter 7
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start
Haynes: Pry
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into
Haynes: Undo
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (giant economy size)
Haynes: Retain tiny spring
Translation: PINGGGG - "Where the hell did that go?"
Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to dig
out the bayonet part (and maybe a plaster or two)
Haynes: Lightly
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then clamp with mole-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer
Haynes: Weekly checks
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it
Haynes: Routine maintenance
Translation: If it isn't broken, it's about to be We warned
Haynes: One spanner rating
Translation: An infant could do this so how did you manage to **** it up?
Haynes: Two-spanner rating
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, teensy weensy number but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you)
Haynes: Three-spanner rating
Translation: Make sure you won't need your bike for a couple of days
Haynes: Four-spanner rating
Translation: You're not seriously considering this are you?
Haynes: Five-spanner rating
Translation: OK - but don't ever carry your loved ones on it again
Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this
Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
Haynes: Compress
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on it, throw it at the garage wall, then find some mole-grips and a hammer
Haynes: Inspect
Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought it's going to need a new one"
Haynes: Carefully
Translation: You are about to suffer deep abrasions
Haynes: Retaining nuts
Translation: Yes that’s it, that big spherical blobs of rust
Haynes: Get an assistant
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know
Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much harder Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs
Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal
Translation: Yeah, right But you swear in different places
Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs
Translation: Snap off
Haynes: Using a suitable drift
Translation: Clamp with mole-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer
Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: recovery Card & Mobile Phone
Haynes: Apply moderate heat
Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother Alternatively, clamp with mole-grips then beat repeatedly with hammer
Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book, bar what you need to do
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Tool box
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted airplane part you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls and hard-earned guitar calluses in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...."
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VICE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack
handle firmly under the bumper.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off a hydraulic jack handle.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic floor jack.
SNAP-ON GASKET SC! RAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog**** off your boot.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, it's main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Batt! le of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; but can also be
used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off their heads.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the obj! ect we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts.
DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage While yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.
EXPLETIVE: A balm, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in
foresight.
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Normally in NZ there are the odd good looking girl in a pub and the rest are chubby girls in rugby shirts.
Czech republic is another place that is an eye opener. The best beer in the world for around $3 and fantastic looking girls. This can also contribute to a loss of sunlight and vitamin D deficiency.
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I sort of thought that would be an issue, but having lived in NZ for 20 years and it ain't no picnic either.
This sort of explains why I moved to Scandinavia.
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cant you just buy all of them?
whats the 80 sticker on the back of the cars?
It is a speed sticker - 80kph. You also get a 100kph one. Sort of a warning to other drivers that don't know cars why you're not doing 120kph like them.
Some cars/vans/trucks have to have them. You can't drive on a major road unless you can do at least 80kph. Speed limit in summer is 120kph and 100kph in Winter. If you are not doing 120kph on the open road without one they will fine you in the same way if you are speeding.
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Here are my circumstances. I'm in Finland and the 3 door hatch we have is to small for our family. Me, the Mrs, 3 year old and one due in 3 months time.
The wife has clearly stated no Volvo/Saab or anything French. It needs to be 5 door and under €2000.
As this place is LHD there are alot of american cars. We don't use the car that often as I have a company car. It will be for heading to the shops and up country to the batch.
I have been surfing the local trademe here and here are a few examples (yes it is in Finnish)
http://www.nettiauto.com/chevrolet/caprice/3053360
http://www.nettiauto.com/dodge/aspen/3023972
I have seen the turbo behind the supercharger as pictured which is a Toyota 4agze 20v I think. But this is quite toasty.
Which hurts most people. They swipe your bankcard at the side of the road. Try doing the "wat u talkin about willis" and saying you have no money cause I'm broke or I'm a tax evader nah nah nah and they put you in the jail while they sell your car to cover the costs.
If you're going to build a kids pedal car what would you do?
in General Car Chat
Posted
This is a '32 soapbox racer, but it would be feasible to put a pedal system in