nick_m

I approve. Will be fun once its got some decent suspension in it. Even with stock motor you'll have a blast

someone needs to do a p10 with a sr20ve

I know he's cheating a little cause he has an extended swing arm, but he does have a car chasing him, so its still pretty cool

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUknmCR-3AM

pictureless update for now cause can't be bothered uploading photos, but adjustable panhard is made and the diff side mount is made so this weekend the plan is finish mounting panhard bar and install rear coil over springs (hopefully picking them up before the weekend, they are just getting powder coated at the moment) and thats the 4 link all fabricated. Then its some sheet metal to fill in all massive holes I cut and final weld all the brackets on the diff

In hindsight I wish I just cut the whole rear out and made a rear clip and tubs a la beams mk1 corty. Would have turned out a bit neater etc, Should still turn out all right in the end, just a slower process cutting, fitting, fouling repeat.....

Tried sending PM, website is failing at sending. Fire me a text on 0273231645. I can help out

cool, like.

How did you go about centering the two bell housing halves to tack them up?

haha sweet will do, motivaion is high at the moment so should hace some relatively regular updates

done me some work this ere weekend.

knocked me up some turrets

then higher chassis rails to clear all the link brackets on the diff

so now I need to do a bump stop which i'll probably do by means of a crossmember between the new chassis rails acting on the diff head, then its panhard mount time. Just waiting on some more rod ends to turn up from the states.

Cool thanks guys

I'll fire FAR an email with this picture, the pic they sent me was a pic of the mold with tape measure held against it, bit hard to gauge what they actually are, might be these ones. Keen to look at getting them widened if I get stuck too

keen to track down these ones first if possible as they are 1200 specific

Thanks though i'll keep that in mind

Figured since there is a few keen motorsport people on here they might know of these guys/where to get these flares. Trying to track down these flares for my 1200 race car, I'm trying to find the company that makes them, pretty sure its not FAR they sent me some pics of some 1200 flares and they were only 50 odd mm wide, need something about 75ish

Hopefully someone can help out!

piccies

fuck yeah, i'd want it to be huuuge. fuck landing half in the thing

Due to working on others peoples car and chasing wimmin my car has been rather neglected but I finally got round to working on my car for the first time in 6 months. Sold my rebuilt LSD diff/shocks/leaf springs to a mate for his 1200 cause I needed money at the time so since I hved to build another diff I thought it was the perfect opportunity to cut me a hole

Discussion Thread

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24438

don't ask permssion just turn up chris won't mind he's a good sort. Just fire him a pm to get his address

What about (and this might sound a little dark, but definitely done more than you'd think) Socket head cap screws. They are available in metric and metric fine and are 10.9 or 12.9 grade depending on size. Cheap as f*ck, strong and you could torque them up higher than factory quite happily I'd say. I can give you there Unbrako catalog in PDF Form which lists the torque to yield seating torques for each size just to be safe before you went and brought them. As long as there torque to yield torque is higher than factory torque setting and you can get them in the right length I'd say you'd be fine.

Your call, But i'm guessing they would cost less for 14 SHCS than it probably did for one of your toyota studs haha.

Pics go here? Ok-

Any more pics of this?

Didn't see this car, but saw/loved the 39 ford coupe in the same color and equally unfinished. Never really pined last 30's cars till recently

aren't they epically light for a largish capacity v6 too. with the plastic intake manifolds and what not. 200kw NA would be pretty sweet.

Nah don't get an rb20e , I reckon get an L28 and go to town on that with tripple sidies. THAT would be Awesome!

where abouts you located?

If your in christcurch I can help out with fab work for conversions

nope its not sorted. He's moving flat/garages. In the middle of a natural disaster as you do. PM/text him he'll be stoked if someone can store

when I had my mini I had to pretty much replace atleast one wheel cylinder every wof. The fucks were always seizing/leaking

But to be fair. I still think the beams engine would be hard to look past if you could find a decent gearbox for it.

qr20de

Can get a 6 speed cable shifted fwd box with helical LSD (was attached to qr25de's not sure if they ever came on qr20de's)

Lighter and smaller (I think 10 plus kilos) than sr20de/ve. outflows sr head by something like 14% (de not VE) bigger intake valves 89mm bore 80mm stroke Die cast aluminium block. Direct acting cams. Just a set of valve springs away from more revs.

Can be had pretty cheaply too. approx $1000 (not sure about the gearboxs though, apparently vq maximas had the same box with a different bellhousing on it)

Only thing is I seem to recall them having pretty small ring lands so unsure how'd they'd go with boost. But i'm pretty sure there is quite a few qr25de+t's kicking round in the states so they must take a little boost alright.

sr20ve are cheap pretty strong but quite heavy.

what about 2zz?

16ve/20ve will is a bolt in swap for the sr18. Just keep the sr18 gearbox and replace sr18 with ve

sr18 has a smaller bore not a smaller stroke unfortunately = gay

The head will bolt onto the block but there is no oil feed in the block for the solenoids so you need to run an external line.

Just buy a whole VE. 20ve's are going in the 800-1000 range on trade me now. Its not worth the hassle to make a franken motor.