nick_m

Cage is tantilisingly close to being finished, Was hoping to have it finsihed by the end of today but my arc eye got worse. It is gay, I dont recommend it to anyone!

Still have anohter week of holiday left so should be finished by the end of holidays. Should get the Pedal box mounted too. Which was the original holiday goal

Also had a wee set back. Was hoping to run an altezza box with some s15 6 speed bits to mate it to the sr, as the are the "same" box made by aisin. Turns out internally they are the same . The castings are slightly different enough to be a pain. I.E S15 bits mostly bolts up. So that needs to be sold and a new box sourced. Probably end up just saving up and getting a s15 6 speed, as thats probably the cheapest easiest way to get close ratios

Rollcage is all but finished. Just got to go through the firewall to the strut towers and im done

.......... However I decided a good dose of arc eye was the order of the day so wont be doing any rollcage today!

Still hoping to get it finished up by the end of tomorrow. Hopefully ill get my wilwood pedal box mounted by end of the week too

So will smash up some pictures in the next couple of days

So stoked to see the cage in there. Finally starting to look like a race car instead of the primered shell that takes up space in my garage! It might even get finished one day!!

that would depend your piston/rod combo and intended revs. I would probably be inclined to leave it as the gain would pretty minimal in the grand scheme of things and you would be absolutely slutted if you destroyed an engine, they can sometimes go in a big way when it happens too!

going space framed now right?

thats quite a large hole there mr bubbles. Put the hole I cut to shame. I look forward to seeing how you fill it

thank you good sir. I love old race videos

missing a few pictures of late, reasonable amount of work done that isnt shown in pictures. Roll cage is progressing pretty well. Hoping tomorrow to drop the cage through the floor and weld the top. then will flip it back up and do door bars harness bar and strut bars, then it should be all finished ready for homogulation. Probably a good few days of solid work left in it though. Will get rouns to pictures shortly

I sort of came to that conclusion too before I even did the CFD stuff, Was pretty much just fucking around with it to avoid work!

Was going to go for as big a plenum I could fit, which dont think will be huge due to space.

I CFD'd the dual plenum more out of curiosity as to whether it was worth it, but bit hard to get any meaningful results with the CFD I used.

^was just Floworks (may have name wrong) it came integrated with solidworks 2010, nothing flash. Basically demo mode, need to spend more money to get anything useful really.

Been a while since an update but have been working away at the roll cage. Rear firewall is done, hoping to get the cage finished over my xmas break, will depend how much beer I drink.

Also been ferreting away with these in the background while I been doing cage

Love your car dude (think ive said that already) hope mine can turn out half as nice!

i had my sedan lowered something like 3 or 4 inches with leaves. Had the spring makers make flip them and rearched them the other way so they were about three inches lower, meant instead of being flat they still had some arch in them so they actually work as leave springs

more toys!

That will be the last of them for a while need to pay off the credit card now!! haha

that trike ^, the massive castor angle, do people actually ride them?

like the bicycles everyone is currently building, they are terrible(awesome) to steer,

with only like half that angle.

in summary, replicate that picture

You can make them steer fine, its all about setting up the trail. That said if you grabbed some front forks that came off a bike that originally had say 25deg of rake and leaned them out to say 30 or 35 or whatever the fck they run then yeah it will steer like shit

Also I vote two stroke for max lols.

now the only hole in the thing is the gearshift hole. Stoked.

Doing roll cage currently but need to wait for my replacement tube notcher after my shitty chinese tube notcher fcked itself after 5 hours. Turns out in this case it paid off to get shitty at supplier, im getting a better quality replacement, still made in china but an american brand

Oh and I bought these....

from this

to this

dont add back half of car bodies to it (eg mx5).So many people seem to do that it looks fugly. Its a trike it shouldnt have a boot

^that one^ looks pretty sweet

yup TDC #1, so that will be fine to trigger with the G4, simply select nissan 360 opto job done.

If it was me id change to the 12 trigger speed tech disc too, he reckons the signal is pretty borderline in factory trim. Not essential just gives you a bit more reliability/less likelihood of misfires

They have pretty much everything, they dont have a FJ20 specific one but the nissan 360 opto is what I descrbed in the above post about the 360 outer slots and 4 inner slots.

If in doubt like said ring link. It just so happens the link development car is a FJ20et Chevette

fully worked 4k with lumpy cam and 3/4 race water pump ow

I thought the only cam available for k series was 'lumpy'

hahaha

I ran a mini with a single down draft weber and approx 270deg duration, was some kelford grind, cant rememebr which now but had around 210 @.050 about (about 260-270 adv duration) was good cam cam on about 3.5k and revd out to 7k. Nice Ropey idle but not a complete slut to drive. I just rang kelford at the time and asked for a fast road cam.

Does the CAS wheel have the 360 litttle slots around the outside and 4 bigger slots on the inside? If so you can probably change out the nissan one for one of those speedtech ones. It *may* even help with the misfire.

Have you replaced the leads recently? Also what about coil condition. Its running the correct Spark plugs. Mis fires lick balls they can be such a pain to diagnose!

it would probably be a bit of a pig at idle with a cam that big and a single down draft.

Would give you a good excuse to upgrade to sidies/bike carbs though

Pop open the cap and take a wee picture of the insides. Is it a standard Dizzy or does it have an optical cas in it like the later model nissan dizzys? If so you can probably get away with running the link off the standard nissn CAS/dizzy setup although some people swap out the nissan disc 360deg opto disc for a 24 trigger wheel for a more reliable signal (you can buy the trigger wheels from Speedtech though these are for sr/vg/ca/rb etc not sure if that covers FJs)

Sorry dont know a great deal about FJs so there may be some easy way of doing it. There may even be a way of using the cas bits out of a sr20 dizzy and mixing matching. Though surely it must be simpler than that. Have you tried FJ20.com to see what they do?

Anyway im rambling now i'll stop