nick_m

I don't doubt that, they are very nice looking ports. Can't sneeze at 180 odd cfm from 2v either.

Was just querying whether 260 was a typo and/or what sort of velocities most guys aim for out of 2v heads?

What ecu are you using to run the show there champ, I might have missed it earlier in the thread

260fps is fast? Did you mean 360fps

A stock sr20ve port is 250-260fps and it is HUUUUGE I swear you could nearly fist the fucker (OK slight exageration but its pretty big!)

I've heard most most porters aim for 300 minimum 340 max.

Thats for 4v stuff. Are there different rules for 2v?

Apart from rookie not playing nice. Why was his post removed, it had good info in it

After I finish exams. Got more important things to worry about.

Pining/masturbating

haha

sweet, got my head round it now. Was getting a little confused as to why such monster injectors. All has become clear

How has the bigger injectors helped with standoff. open for smaller time for same amount of fuel?

easiest way is to create an account with an online hosting site eg photobucket. Then upload them to there and copy and paste the tag that is created for i when you've uploaded it into this thread. That might sound like nonsense but it will make sense once you've got an account.

any comments on types of injectors to use for outboards?

1000cc outboards. Fuck me, guess I won't be using the 550cc i've got

Glenn (or anyone) give any comment on type of injectors, (brands etc) suited to outboard mounting. I.E spray pattern type and why

My mind says you'd be look for a narrower spray pattern? to be more directional

Do you have pics of your outboards glenn? I was planing to mount mine in the top of an air box at about 45 deg pointing at trumpet as opposed to directly inline (not easily possible due to strut tower gett in the way)

The other option that may work (and i'm purely speculating here, from looking at truenotchs pics) but you could probably get a 20mm bit of alloy water cut and bolt it to the intermidiate part he's used with c'sunk cap screws and then bolt the black tops to that plate and port match the two shapes.

Your engineer mate could also easily make it on his manual mill, a profile cut one would just look a little nicer. At a rough guess i'd say $100-150 for the water cutting, Then a couple of hours to tap and c'sink some holes and port match (not sure if you have the tools to do that or not)

Though you might be able to find someone on here to help you out with the CAD and or discounts.

If you get stuck I could look into it and model something up if you want to go that route but i'd need manifold gaskets for both the itbs and that intermidiate bit or a PDF 1:1 scan of the two bits.

brock-lee = dave?

Rob know where I live just tag along one day

Cool Shit

Did some flow sims on plenum shapes convential plenum vs dual plenum didn't seem to make much difference on a 4 cyl, however I can only have one outlet because its basic intro pack.

The big part out the front is cause I want to run a 6" bellmouth in the head light to feed ITB's. The plenum will be as big as physically possible.

Want to build piner spec carbon sex one.

Sweet!

Is the droptank steel?

Yeah just a 2mm zintex one. Cause this started out as a road car its probably going to be a little fat to start with. Could/would make so much stuff lighter

Thats on the list to do though just want to get it out racing first

Cool car man! That engine/chassis combo will be a lot of fun when it's done.

Just a word of warning - those Jamex seats aren't too great and flex a lot when you're sitting in them. You'll be more comfortable and more confident in something solid like a Racetech.

Sweet cheers

Might look out for a race tech for the drivers side then.

They all on my computer at work and they've blocked old school website. bastards.

I'll try sneak in some pining time and email them home, for update tomorrow

Feet will probably be 13x7 zero offset star sharks or ssr mk2's. Will have to import them.

Its funny you should mention ITB's, the new motor will be getting some. This is just a $300 beater motor to get up and running while I build a cammed up ITB'd monster. Will probably make some less offensive headers next time round too haha.

Cheers Thanks Chris

If you have no luck with the yokos can your price up some 175/60 and 185/60 re55's?

Still a bit unsure on what one to go with. Pretty keen to run the 175/50's though if they are still available

Been lurking round here for a bit and due to suffering from a serious case of the man flu I can't be bothered doing much off anthing so I thought its time to start a thread!

This is the going to be a big post, i've been working on it for about 5 years on and off now so have heaps of pictures!

Car as I got it, A $500 runner with WOF and REGO but no chance of passing its next inspection due to rust

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee9/nick_datsun/Nicksdatto3.jpg[/img]

Mounted the motor and a few other little bits and pieces and then had the shell sand blasted and primered

At the shop with my friends one

I had to do lots of rust repairs

Car with a set of 14 by 6.5 genuine starsharks. I ended up selling these to a friend for his 510, I will probably import the same wheels is a 13x7

Engine Crossmember

Tubes hold nolathane front spring eye bushes

s14 sr20de

Decided to build a drop tank because the car was so low and witht the big diff I shortened the diff head would have made a hump in the boot floor. So I made on for it to clear which mean the tank couldn't really stay where it was (behind the rear seat, same as 510)

Modified a nissan intank pump to fit the tank

Connected to factory filler, so hopefully no stinky petrol smells

S13 wiper motor

Nissan in there infinite glory kept the wiper arm the same only had to enlarge the hole and weld knew nuts on as it had a different bolt pattern

Started making a sheet metal pedal box for reverse cylinders. Nearly finished it. Went a bit overboard its not as light as I'd hoped it was going to be.

Laser cut up a panel to mount the s13 instrument panel into datsun dash

Made my own octopus extactors

Its a close fit!

Also made my own merge collectors for it

Scallop out a section so the two pieces fit together nice

Cleaned up and welded together

First time it had looked complete in a couple of years so thought i better snap some pictures of it. This was just before we moved into our house at the start of the year.

mk1 golf spoiler

Testing 13's

Redid my setback a month or so ago as I wasn't overly happy with the first one. I like this one better. My welding/fab was a lot better by this point too

Started mounting race seats

Modified shift to suit race seat position, original lever was too far back and low for my liking

How the engine bay looks now.

Just realsed I don't have any front suspension pictures. I have converted to coilver front end with camber plates and shortened inverted bilsteins. Rear is reverse eyed leaves and bilstein shocks

The plan is to cage it (have kitset cage sitting in garage waiting) and go have some fun at ruapuna. Have another sr sitting there waiting for some big cams etc once its running

Some of the other Datsuns i've owned

This was a wagon I got given. It doesn't look to ad in the pics but the a pillar sill area was so rusted out from sitting in a paddock for 10 years that you could nearly bend it down to the ground!

Many of its parts ended up on other datsuns, with the right rear quarter going onto my mates 2 door wagon

Mint little old lady sunny I owned, stayed like that the whole time I owned it, I regret selling it now! I was only the third owner

A12 auto. It was definitely no rocket ship but man it was comfy to cruise around in

Current daily driver

Its just running standard b310 steels with the chrome wheel trims now as those 13" wheels where buckled to hell

Hope you like

pretty average. sell me zed. pine

I still think the flares you've done look the best off all the ones proposed

To break that sharp edge you could add a 7-10mm vertical edge a la most factory cars. Would be a lot of work extra though.

I say leave them

Apparently fiat puts alot of money into developing technology like that. I think they have alot of patents out on various drivetrain technologies so they an collect royalties etc.

I could be completely wrong though!

I've got no experience with Pinto's, but for what its worth David Vizard recommends fitting the biggest valves physically possible as from a performance view there is no downside.

I'd increase exhaust valve more than intake (eg, if you increased intake 1mm do exhaust 2mm) to get more flow out the exhaust and spool that turbo quicker.

edit: From memory Pinto's are have quite big bores? If so you should be able to get pretty big valves in there and with some chamber work you should have any issues with valve shrouding

Down under? they probably think we live in that dry desert next door

atleast they got the general location about right

Have you tried bleeding the hydraulic lifters?

Would be interesting to see if the problem has changed cylinders as I bet the engine builder probably didn't put the same lifters in the same place, if it still on number one cylinder maybe try swapping the lifters to another cylinder and see if the problem follows it.

If its 25 spline it will be 2 pinion which are aparently just dreadful things, not very strong aparently.

This is going by what the diff man told me when I walked in with all my 4 pinion bits. The 4 pinion LSD used in commodores and falcons are 28 spline.

you MAY be able to swipe a 4.1 rato CW&P from one of those horrible 4 cyl VN commodores although aparently there were difference in offsets between commo and falcon, so may not work.

I've used a 4.1 commy diff with 28 spline 4 pinion LSDstuffed in the guts of it. complete overkill for a sr20de, I might one day build a more appropriate sized diff for it

If its this coming week it'll have to be before thursday as this thursday to sunday i'll be horribly inebriated at the muscle car madness