Sorensin
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Posts
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Posts posted by Sorensin
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Fuck yes, I'm so keen for dinner at that classy place with pokies and margarine sculptures.
Actual real life LOL
And I'm easy/keen for what ever?
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":1rnm4mq4]thats only 5 mins from my place, and have space to store them for you. if you need me to do it PM me the details
cheers
Karl
you have a pm, thanks!
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So, what is the definition of a SIV?
The NZ Transport Agency says a Special Interest Vehicle must meet 3 of the following 4
criteria:
i. the vehicle (or make, model and submodel) is identified as a collector’s
item in 1 of 12 approved automobile magazines or associated websites;
ii. the vehicles make or model was manufactured in annual volumes of
20,000 or less;
iii. the vehicle is, and was manufactured as, a two-door coupe or convertible;
iv. the vehicle is, and was manufactured as, a high-performance vehicle.
In addition, a left-hand-drive SIV must not have been manufactured in RHD.
A very important point to note is that any vehicle aged more than 20 years of age
(in NZ or not), or any younger specialist vehicle already registered in NZ, does not
need to apply for an SIV permit
Thanks and fark!
o well guess ill just keep eyes peeled here in NZ
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You won't be able to bring anything in pre-2006 I believe, due to the new emissions rules that have taken effect, unless you apply for a SIV permit (provided the car fits the criteria).
Cars made before 1 Jan 1990 are still exempt from these rules of course.
I have always budgeted an extra $4000 on top of the vehicle FOB price when bringing a car in for myself, apart from one car which had chassis damage it's been a fairly accurate amount. (FOB includes dereg/agency fees/commission/shipping to port)
Thanks I had tried finding the cut off year but couldn't find that from a quick google/ view of nzta
Whats involved in a SIV?
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Looking at bringing in a 2001/2002 car theres hasn't been many for sale over here and a couple that i've seen have things tha have put me off so was pondering the idea of importing one.
Thanks guys!
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A street off Horseshoe Lake Rd in Shirley
thanks!
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Hey who has had experince with importing a car from japan, good, bad or otherwise?
ruff idea on total cost?
cheers in advance
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NEW sig that is all
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sorry my bad
Christchurch City, Canterbury
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is anyone able to pic up some rims and store them till I can organise shipping up to wellington?
cheers in advance
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proportioning vlave does differnt wheels on differnt cars sometimes sides somtimes front to rear and sometime diagonals, so tahts still a possibility.
Maybe drums has bad wear and the pad isnt biting aswell? I'm guessing there was no sign of grease or similar prodcts on shoes when u cleaned them?
was the self adjuster working properly?
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will be SOHC 8V carb. Grab one from a RWD Sigma, or 2WD L200 80s ute. 4WD utes will be wideblock and you want a narrowblock. You could even grab an engine from a FWD Sigma 84-88 or Chariot 83-90 and swap over the manifolds, water pump, crank pulleys etc.
If your flatmate wants more power you could try find the 2.4 SOHC 16V from the 93 onwards model L300, just you'll need to swap from carb to EFI, and you would need the gearbox with it as the 2.4 vans are wideblock.
To get the engine out from above you'll want to remove the passenger side front door and pull it out that way, otherwise drop it down below if you have access to a hoist.
I pulled the engine out, stripped it down, fitted new rings/bearings/gaskets etc and assembled back together in the van running over a weekend. Not overly difficult to do.
Thanks Heaps!
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you need a bender that pulls the tube around a mandrel, I'm guessing you have the typr that pushes a mandrel into the the pipe and is held on either end?/that type of bender always = crush central
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will be attending
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20mm guard difference means its only out by 10mm. Mine was the same. Never bothered to do anything about it.
Mine is also out, id say by about 20mm. Is going to make good fitment/wider wheels to look good a touch harder
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this strong |_______________|
sorry back to your actual helpful posts now!
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hrmm, first I heard and deal with a certifier a fair bit, but anything is possible.
I doubt they'll be able to make people with a cert change back though!
I also can't see why they would make it so you can't sort a cert for them, at least this way people are certing a safe change. People will just use dodgey suspension if what ever they have will get them stickerd, if there isnt a safe alternative that can make it legit they'll just go the cheaper/incorrect way..?
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adjusties are eaily certed if you have over 100mm ground clearnce and the suspension is bolt parts
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theres a sweet thread allan made on making your own adjusties, you should have a read of that!
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pics of rims, thread was a good read, perha[s could be made to a tec article with some pics?
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1mm IMO would be the way to go.
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Holly shit 1.6 steel are you Spartacus?
I couldn't tin snip through 1.6 steel and ive been using tin snips most days for about 6 years
Some people use .8 if there not going to be hammer and filing there work I prefer 1mm and 1.2 would be the absolute maximum I would ever reccomend.
as far as welding goes people weld .8 no problem.
The workshop im in atm we use 1mm pretty much for everything - as said above the stuff we use zinc coated but this is the first place ive been that uses it...
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no problem
we actually had one in stock where i work
Widened steelies on an escort?
in General Car Chat
Posted
Your wheel can't stick out further than your guard for wofs?
I could be wrong on the figure but pretty sure you can only widen a wheel by 3inches/new outers would be an option be we were discussing widening wheels/
What ever you can tuck under your guards/flares