barf

a wideband oxygen sensor is very useful (innovate lc-1 is USD$200)

if you're all curly-locks about ecu price get a Megasquirt (ms2/extra) it has programmable outputs you can use for things like boost control, water/nitrogen oxide control, etc

you can run it either as an ON/OFF (pump type) system triggered by a manifold pressure level, or use injector(s) and another VE table to inject an amount of water as a function of RPM and MAP.

found some links about water injection with megasquirt here:

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mturbo.htm#water

http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=36688

I never had it throw any codes in my car when hitting the cut.

it's from 1996 - it has an OBD-I trouble code for "engine overboost condition"

Not too sure that you could accuratly check plug colour after a missfire unless you turn it iff as soon as it miss-fired? at high reves, which might be pretty uncool for the turbo bearings....

seriously?? i check my plugs after every session at the track, matched with datalogs it's a good engine 'barometer'

Das the car had anything done to improve airflow, dump pipe, exhaust, camshaft, compression ratio,intake?

• 
  [*:1rjtzids]180psi compression
  [*:1rjtzids]3 inch exhaust (2" to 3" conical flange attached to turbo)
  [*:1rjtzids]K&N air filter
  [*:1rjtzids]standard turbo, tune and manifolds

fuel; i tried NGK copper plugs and the problem was even more apparent.

Also does the car rev out cleanly off boost? ie: make revs climb gently at 1/4 throttle in second or 3rd gear whilst still showing vacuum on the boost gauge.

yes it's smooth running at all times except for when i do a throttle stab, ie; 3rd gear cruise at 2500rpm to full load, no hesitations except for at a high level of power. this is a factory mitsi 1.0 bar system i havn't modified anything.

i don't think it's the cut-out because i'd see an OBD trouble code presumably for that, and plugs go black when it happens but the overboost is a fuel cut on this AFAIK.

thanks for the replies everyone, very helpful !

i've got the service manual to refer to for vacuum diagrams and the hoses are all correct, wastegate actuator can be seen moving and it operates at 1.0 bar (Boost). there is no distributor it is wasted spark. plugs are new, NGK iridium IX's. no fault codes on OBD-II diagnostic equipment. also have replaced the fuel pump and while i don't have a fuel pressure gauge, it empties a tank in minutes so pretty confident i've eliminated fuel issues, short of building a flow-test bench for my injectors.

it's a new turbo too, and the manifold pressure gauge i have does sort of float up to almost 17psi before it settles down at 14-15, with a quick stab on the throttle. if i chase the throttle the problem is much harder to reproduce. it's something small and obvious i bet :-\

first thing i looked for was boost leaks, and i did find and fix some so i may revisit that issue.

hey i'm after some opinions and thoughts on my lancer which misfires (ie; non/weak ignition) under full load only

using stock ignition components and pretty sure it's all up to snuff, have tried replacing transistor unit, plugs, leads and coils. no boost/vacuum leaks that i can find. higher power coils are the next thing i'm trying, plugs blacken quickly when the misfire occurs but otherwise stay clean.

its a pretty fresh (~1000km) engine and compression is 181-182 psi all round, its a 7-bolt flywheel '96 narrowblock 4G93 the factory wastegate is 1.0 bar. what other gremlins haunt a turbo car?

are there any other sensor calibration methods in Link's software?

NTC is negative temperature coefficient, if the coefficient of the thermistor is known then you can hopefully just type resistances-vs-temperatures in

to check them remove the leads of each end and test it with an ohm-meter. should be in the range of 0.7 - 1.5 Ω

Drained it by removing the drain plug/bolt

Yes, it's similar in shape to a typical oil filter

and thanks it's running good and shifting smoothly now

Classic Endurance Racing series

Seeking expressions of interest to garner divisions and classes for an oldschool endurance race series in Gran Turismo 5.

To revive legendary battles and honour the fabulous past, ideally divisions will be similar to the (FIA/European) Classic Endurance Series. In brief;

• Prototype 1 (P1) class
  [*:3oafsi8j]Older than 1980
  [*:3oafsi8j]Not 'mass-produced' (ie; era race car)
  [*:3oafsi8j]No HP limit
  [*:3oafsi8j]Over 550kg

• Grand Touring 1 (GT1) class
  [*:3oafsi8j]Older than 1980
  [*:3oafsi8j]Mass produced vehicle
  [*:3oafsi8j]Under 500bhp (subject to change)
  [*:3oafsi8j]Over 900kg

• Grand Touring 2 (GT2) class
  [*:3oafsi8j]Older than 1980
  [*:3oafsi8j]Mass produced vehicle
  [*:3oafsi8j]Under 300bhp
  [*:3oafsi8j]No weight limit

All classes will share the track. Please observe blue flags if you're slower than a passing vehicle and faster vehicles should pass on straights where possible.

If you'd be keen to join in, please put your PSN down here and what day/time suits you best for a race meeting. Need at least 10 entrants to make awarding points worthwhile. Tyre selection will be regulated and rules are subject to change before the series starts. Questions/comments/ideas welcome.

PSN: barfNZ

Day/Time: Anytime

Preferred vehicle: Datsun Bluebird SSS Hardtop (GT2)

thanks for the replies!

it was drained and transmission is a W4A51 (4WD transmission on CM5A)

if you could confirm the amount of fluid that would be choice. I can't find the service manual for this transmission.

at the risk of sounding naive i'd like to ask what the deal is with properly replacing fluid in auto transmissions and torque converters.

i've rebuilt my engine and am dying to turn the key but want to be sure i'm not going to damage anything carelessly

the mitsubishi parts guy tried scaring us into paying for a professional fluid replacement service when we picked up the filter, what is that exactly and does the transmission pump fluid into the torque converter or what?

let me get this right: the tacho has two connections (from each end of the loop), and in and out so-to-speak that go between coil +ve and switched+12v?

if so - this circuit should do the trick but, no guarantees, i'm just some guy on the Internet. it sounds like the tachometer is a current sensing circuit similar to some old Smith's gauges.

this is a modification of the Megasquirt-style high-level tacho output circuit

http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Hardware.htm#tachoout

for the dummy load, use at least a 5W wire-wound resistor (NOT carbon-film type!), start with a higher value and work your way down if there is nothing on the tacho (330,200,100,75,50,35,20 ohms). observe how much heat the load generates (not very scientific I know) you shouldn't have excessive heat.

primary winding on a healthy coil should measure 0.5 - 1.5Ω.. maybe up to 2.0Ω

hopefully it's not your ignition module. USD$75+pp for one of these, strong kiwi dollar atm too (NZD$99)

and what sort of tacho-output does your ECU have? distributor-style ignitino system?

all my mods are legit, officer. it's been professionally lowered, with a makita angle grinder.

the RB in RB20DET stands for 'race bred' or 'racing block'.

put a Z33 MAF sensor on my RB, makes it go harder without a re-tune.

installed a 'fuel cut defender' onto my MAP sensor so i can run over 1 bar of boost without lean combustion at high load and RPM.

whats a 6 dial tacho? does it trigger from coil -ve? please explain?

many if not most ECUs have a (separate) tacho output signal

just to throw in a fresh idea, jaycar sell voltage switch kitsets. knowing that theres +13v when the alternator operates, you could control a relay when battery voltage is greater than say 12.9v

http://jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5377&CATID=25&form=CAT&SUBCATID=347

EDIT: possibly not an ideal solution, high electrical loads could swith the pump off...

choice info - cheers guys

it has IRS

time to checkout what the old turbo leone in the paddock has in it's arse

some doofus welded up (ie; destroyed) this differential and now I need to find a replacement, does anyone know what other vehicles use the same differential as the S12 (CA18ET twin-spark) silvia? i hear that Subaru Leone's have an identical diff head -- true/false?

thank in advance for any info you can share.

cheers for the warning here nigelwade. it's such a shame to see the Megasquirt name sullied by poor workmanship altho, Link's or any other ECU can have noise in signals, if not installed properly.

there's professionally constructed "plug and play" megasquirts from DIYautotune, if soldering isn't your forté.

tuning is primary concern with any type of ECU, and TunerStudio made tuning easy for me. at the end of the day, the MS tuning software is on par with MoTeC and Link's, you can interpolate between values on the tables, import/export and there are keyboard shortcuts. as one example, it took me two hours of dyno time to tune cruise and WOT, fuel and spark for MBT but, one hour was for the dyno setup and pull-down.

the only authorised Megasquirt dealers I know of are glensgarage and DIYAutoTune.com there are some others now though - I reccomend DIYautotune to anyone considering Megasquirt. from what I understand B&G went to some effort to evaluate and QA these dealers.

PS. I construct my megasquirts with a $30 jaycar soldering iron, with zero failures to date. just be careful not to overheat components and the board.

checking plugs provides a good indication of combustion, in lieu of expensive sensors :^)

the MS2 kitset is USD$247 now!

you should not significantly increase the manifold pressure from factory, when using the factory ECU: it risks detonation. as a rule of thumb, more boost = less ignition advance. too much advance for cylinder conditions = engine knocking or worse.

a rising rate fuel pressure regulator with the standard ECU will probably just upset the tune. you can measure your AFR with a wideband oxygen sensor, an Innovate LC1 costs about USD$200 and is essential equipment for tuning.

is the coil different to the original type?

if it's a different coil, another possibility is that the dwell time (traditionally set by the 'points gap' in a kettering-style ignition system) could be too short, causing coil to charge enough for sufficient spark at low loads but at high rpm/loads there may not be enough spark for proper combustion.

and if you're in christchurch you're welcome to borrow one of my stimulators.

all sensors require calibration, check in TunerStudio Tools -> Sensor Calibration for MAP sensor calibration. for TPS there is a wizard, for thermistors (temperature) they are usually set by three known points of resistance-versus-temperature ("Calibrate Thermistor Tables" in TunerStudio) or; if you know the coefficient of the thermistor there is a more precise method.

another check, is to see if a refererence voltage is output from the sensor pins on the DB37, you should see 5.0v on the IAT and CLT input pins, on an unloaded circuit.

http://www.silverfernrally.co.nz

Started 14 November

2909km total (touring and ss)

over 1000 glorious km of special stages