mekemelorry

failed a WOF today for rear brakes not working properly, C33 laurel, rear disc brake with separate handbrake

Put it on the rollers, they are working, but not very well.

Brake pads about halfish worn.

The master cylinder has been changed within last 6 months, previous melted from engine fire.

Re bled rear brakes and got no change.

Could it be wrong master cylinder?

Maybe new brake pads might improve them?

any ideas before i start spending money

Thanks in advance

sell them on trademe, then pay for your steels to be wider

id say so. Broadway electrical in Palmerston North send them off to Auckland somewhere to get recalibrated, maybe give them a call? I think it cost about $90

 demagnetize speedo

On this topic

We have one of these at work on trail

http://www.ecosafewasher.com.au/how-it-works

Seems to do a good job.

Anyone know of a similar product to POR15? But cheaper?

Hi just thought id see if anyone clued up on nissans could help me?

My C33 laurel engine loom had a melt down (RB20e)

Will i be able to take one from a R32 skyline or a31 Cefiro? or something else? also running RB20e

Thanks in advance

It's a myth that compressed springs are any good

Whats wrong with them? A lower centre of gravity is an improvement?

Those Panasports are waaaaay cooler than widened steels. Looked so sweet as it was when you picked it up. Apart from making suspension legit I would have left it as was. Clean and mean

Thought I would chuck up a new thread, as the old one shit itself

Had the Carina for a few years now, Nothing much has changed, a few wheel swaps, general maintenance and a touch of low.

Smelly 1500cc 3AU

Automatic

Sigma steels

Terrible cellphone pics

Future plans:

Fit fender mirrors (someone took factory ones off)

Bigger dia wheels

Maybe manual (probably not)

Remove the emissions crap

That is all

I think you will find vacuum tubes in that radio..

what size are the new tyres?

Finally got some new wheels for the carina

They are 14 x 6.5 and 14 x 7.5

Cant decide on tyres,

had 185/55's on previously, but the front guard to tyre gap was massive, Also had 185/60's but they looked to big + still big guard gap (Both on a 6" wide rim)

With the little stretch of a 185/60 on the new rims will this give the illusion of a lower profile?

People on here are running 175/60's on similar sized rims, Don't know how common they are?

hope this makes sense

here it is with 185/55's just found some pics

Can probably lower the car another 15mm

i dont know, any ideas would be great.

Then mine,

Stuffed my project thread up, lost pics etc. Will try dig some old pics out.

Good to see it back on here

hey, who is the local engineer that widens rims?

Cheers

put the higher springs on drivers side, so it equals when your in it

For future reference, its was the valve stem seals,

Easy job, even without removing head.

Do a compression test mate.

Ive been told a compression test isn't going to tell me alot, as it would be the oil control rings worn, and they wouldnt affect the compression much?

4G93s (like the newer generation 6A1x, 4A3x, 4B1x, 6B3x etc) are generally good for not smoking, it's the older 4G6x, 4G3x, 4G1x, 6G7x, 4G5x etc which tend to have softer rings and therefore smoke early on.

I would gather it's probably valve stem seals or the rebuild of the turbo (really, what was involved in this 'service'?) causinig the smoke. You should be using a 5W40 or 10W40 or similar semi-synthetic or full-synthetic oil.

The turbo was rebuilt by AutoKraft in Palmy, so Im crossing my fingers thats its valve stem seals (supposibly you can change them with head still on)

I have a 10w40 Caltex oil in it.

After a bit of help in regards to whats causing it to smoke, its in a 97 GSR lancer

I get blue smoke from the exhaust after it has been idling for a few minutes and i go to take off.

No smoke when idling, only when you touch the accelerator ,

Doesn't smoke when your up and running , and short stops and starts (traffic lights etc)

Have done a oil flush and change + filter

Turbo has been serviced so its not that

Im thinking Rings or valve stem seals?

Any help/known problems or further testing suggestions I could try would be great

Thanks in advance

Good jumper cables?

i called them today, they quoted me $80 a rim for a band welded in on 14" wheels.

my fiat done the same thing when the air correction jet in the carb blocked up,

shit its looking bloody good, just seen it on ruahine st,

well done

It's just steel. What do you think the spring shops do?

sping shops bend the metal (probably in one big bend) then heat the steel and quench it in water, this brings all the grains in the steel to the same point so its essentially one piece again.

When a spring shop reset leaves they only just warm the steel and slowly bend it in a press (start and one end of leaf and work there way to the other end).

When they make the spring in the from scratch, the steel is heated to red hot, shaped using a jig, then cooled down in oil, then heated again to get the correct hardness. Then the spring is shaped and matched to other leaves in a press.

You are right, but if you heat the metal until it starts to change colour, not hot enough to change to red but when it starts to get a tinge of purple or blue, then if you let it cool in the air it normalises the metal, which will be making it softer and a lot more saggy than when they came out of factory. I'm not sure what cooling rates springs require after heating, but after any heating you should probably reheat to red hot and quench in oil or water. or else they might sag like crazy when you load them up.

Archers springs it Rotorua reset springs with no heat whatsoever. I worked at Auld & Voss in Palmy for a few years before it closed down. We always warmed the leaves up slightly to prevent snapping them when re-forming in a press