kdotlowe

15 hours ago, kyteler said:

Forgive my ignorance but is that not exactly how it should operate?  

You wouldn't be able to correctly tune the idle circuit if you couldn't close off it's flow completely to then meter it afterwards? 

Maybe most carbs are worn out from Barry fettling and always let some through. 

Most manuals I've read indicated it should be screwed right in then back out one and a half turns and adjust from there. 

Not on the DGV. But correct me if I'm wrong. The idle jets on the side of the carb should be seated and the idle mixture is set by the idle mixture screw which is at the base of the carb. 

4 hours ago, Mof said:

Is there supposed to be a copper washer under the head of the screw? 

Nope. Didn't previously and can't find it on any schematics. There is an o-ring, but that doesn't affect the seating.

All sorted as of yesterday!! 

For some reason, when my idle jet is screwed all the way in, it blocks fuel from passing. But only on the primary side. If I back the idle jet holder out 1/4 of a turn it runs perfectly. 

Not sure if that's how it's supposed to be, but it's running mint now *shrug*.

Definitely oil pump haha. 

7 hours ago, Unclejake said:

Good luck and hopefully she fires right up so you can spend hours trying to adjust the mixture correctly! If she doesn't run well  a vacuum leak may give you the symptoms you are seeing, but this one sounds more like a wet fuel delivery problem (rather than an atomized fuel delivery problem)

IIRC you should be able to take to top off the DGV carb (after the engine has run for a little bit, albeit roughly) and you should see fuel in the float bowl. If you don't you have either messed up the float setting or have an issue somewhere between the bowl and the fuel tank

Thanks mate. I've definitely got fuel in the bowl (maybe 6-8mm above the main jets.) Really hoping it's just that diaphragm but won't get a chance to look at it again until Friday. Absolutely dreading trying to get the mixture right.

3 hours ago, moparmuppet said:

I havent played on one of these in 25 years so these are only general musings. I don't know your skill level so sorry if I'm telling you to suck eggs.

Thanks for this. Given me a new direction to start problem solving. I've just pulled the carb off again. My car has a water choke that isn't functional (the coil has been removed) but I pulled it apart for peace of mind and I've discovered a tear in the diaphragm...ugh. By looking at the carb, this passage leads to an outlet below the throttle butterflies. SO if I'm correct, it looks like this could be a source of the air leak?

3 hours ago, moparmuppet said:

Is it running on 4 when you give it the squirt? Or really lumpy. Like have you mixed a couple of plug leads and its running on 2? Get it to run by pumping it for a few (10-20) seconds from cold then feel the exhaust manifold, are all branches the same lukewarm? If 2 are dead cold, thats a problem. All the same temp, or at least firing, and you didn't play with the distributor or have the leads off, then it is more likely  carbie or vacuum.

Definitely running on all four. It actually revs really nice and normal. 

3 hours ago, moparmuppet said:

Crank the engine with the fuel line to the carb off. Are you getting enough fuel supplied from the fuel pump? Can you check the fuel float level, is the new needle/ seat assy letting enough fuel in? A quarter full carb will get a car firing on constant prodding the pedal but not have enough "head" to get fuel thru the venturis. 

Can you get someone to pump it to keep it running while you spray short bursts of Start-ya-bastard around the base gasket and manifold to block surface?( keep yer head away incase the engine backfires) If it irons out the issue a bit you have pinpointed the problem to where you are squirting

Just double checked the floats, it was a mm or so out so I've adjusted as necessary. Will give the pump and spray method a go when I have an extra set of hands to help.

3 hours ago, moparmuppet said:

Can you mix up the jets in the same venturi? Swapping side to side shouldn't be a problem, swapping around within the venturi(if you even can) would be sub optimal at least. Do you know now where you started from with what jet is where?  Has kitting the carb  made it better or worse than it was after the manifold was removed? If it is the same bag of balls you haven't manifestly fucked things up doing the carbie job, the oil leak/inlet manifold job is where it all fell apart. 

Have you got the old carbie gaskets etc. There are normally a choice of top gaskets with different holes and portings. Compare what you fitted with what you removed. 

Thankfully the carb kit hasn't made it any worse - if anything, the accelerator pump seems to be much more 'snappy'. Gaskets are the same as removed. 

I'm really hoping it's just the choke diaphragm leak that's the issue. I'll get properly into when I get a day off work but thanks so much for the pointers. Sometimes you just need another person's input so you're not going round in circles.

Thanks! 

I'm looking for the same. I've been recommended Manon Butler Motors in Takapuna.

Hi all,

I've been battling some running issues with my Escort (1600 Xflow w/ Weber 32DGV) for the past few months. Seeking some advice. Sorry long post ahead.

The car was running a little rough and also had a leak from the oil pump. I pulled off the oil pump and inlet to replace gaskets and clean out the carb. I've refitted the inlet and the carb with new gaskets and insulators. Once reassembled when I went to start the car it would only run if I pumped the throttle - indicating that it's only running from the accelerator pump. If I stop pumping the throttle the revs would taper off and die.

I've since pulled everything off, rebuilt the carb with a rebuild kit and reinstalled with new gaskets etc. Still having the same issue.

This lead me to believe it was a vacuum leak, but after reinstalling everything with new gaskets and also plugging the breather and vacuum lines I'm still having the same symptom. I can't easily test vacuum leaks with an engine starter as I have to be pumping the throttle to get it to run so any rev changes would be unnoticeable

Few queries.
- If I've mixed up the carb jets, would this prevent it from idling? I've tried switching back and forth with no luck and I'd assume it would still run somewhat either way.

Any one have any ideas on what I should be looking for next? Close to throwing in the towel. Alternatively, can anyone recommend and Auckland based mechanic that's good with this sort of thing?

Thanks in advance!
K
 

19 hours ago, Flauski said:

It is not going as yet, a looooong term project. I am trying to cull the fleet a little. I will send you a message.

How'd you get on with the M-Unit? Was it as easy to setup as it looks? Planning to use one for my build but haven't actually purchased one - the price is a but painful.

9 hours ago, cletus said:

Chur

Did exactly that. 

 

Anyone have any good tyre buying experiences for bikes in auckland?

Congrats! What year and colourway did you get?

I have both the bar ends indicators and controls listed above. Both very good quality! 

4 hours ago, cletus said:

Anyone ridden a DRZ400sm?

any good?  

I absolutely love mine. Not the quickest bike but coming from a 1973 Honda CL175 this thing is an absolute blast. Does wheelies pretty easily. Seat sucks after any long rides. I find it screams a little bit on the motorway at 100km/h but this could be easily changed with gearing. I've kept my gearing standard as it's just too much fun with all the low down torque round town. I've got a Yoshimura Exhaust on mine, and there's a 3x3 airbox mod you can do which 'peps' things up a bit - I'm waiting till I'm bored with it's current power before doing a 3x3 and re-jet. I paid $6k for mine, it's done 20,000km but looks brand new. I really wanted a KTM or Husky but really didn't want to be doing oil changes every 700km. I think the DRZ is a great compromise and has millions of aftermarket parts! 

EDIT: If you want a test ride, just shout out.

Don't the GB's and XR's share a very similar engine? I would imagine an XR600 engine would slot in relatively easy. Plenty of them around as they're used as adv bikes so I'm sure parts are easier to come by. 

I've always wanted to put a CR250 engine into the CL, not sure if that's a great, impossible or stupid idea. 

39 minutes ago, Abarth said:

Sweet cheers man, do you have a spare seat? Mine didn’t come with one and we’re looking to use the OG base and reshape it and cover it.

 

Your build is looking sick too btw, keen to see more about the Motogadget stuff as that stuff looks tidy.

A seat might be the one thing I have only 1 of! Let me double check tonight though! 

Awesome! Not sure how cross compatible they are, but I have about 4x bikes worth of CB360 parts sitting in my garage. So shout out if you're missing anything niggly! 

Installed the carbs today. She's really coming together. Not to much to do now

• Purchase and install M-Unit + finish wiring.
• Fabricate a number plate bracket and rear indicator mounts. 
• Install tachometer blanking plug. 
• Maybe purchase new tires (I'm wanting something dual sport). 
• Fill with oil, set points and timing and start her up! 

1 minute ago, AllTorque said:

Looks good. Can you still pull the brake lever in all the way?

Sure can. It's hard to see from that angle, but the end of the lever bottoms out on the grip. It actually clears that back button by a few millimetres. 

Installed the controls today by routing the cables through the bars. Pretty tricky but if you were good at the boardgame 'Operation' as a kid I'm sure it'll be a breeze.

20 minutes ago, Chris.QCR said:

Im using a Ultima wiring harness unit on the Ironhead. Made life pretty simple for a guy who hates wiring. Also using Modern Motorcycle Company micro switches on the bars with internal bar wiring for that clean look

Awesome, might look into the wiring harness! Yeah I've actually got a set of the MMC switches. They just don't fit very well on my bars because of how much horizontal space I have before the bar bend.

I had the same dilemma, needing a front brake switch limited my lever options. I used the below which works with the standard Honda brake switch. It's nothing fancy however. 

https://4into1.com/gp-drum-brake-lever-assembly-w-mirror-mounts-chrome/

Not sure if the lever would fit into your perch or not. 

I agree, 30 seconds is ridiculously long. I forget to turn my indicators off half the time anyway haha. 

I don't currently have a solid harness so wiring one with the M-Unit should be more straight forward. Inputs in one side, outputs on the other. And it's even easier if you run the M-Button. It's just the price which is a bit hard to swallow! 

3 minutes ago, kseries.rookie said:

Do you have the link available for these?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CNC-Momentary-Latching-Switch-Aluminium-Alloy-Switch-Motorcycle-Cafe-Race-Handle-Grips-Reset-Buttons-For-Honda/32844235133.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.5fb84c4dskXaG1

They're not cheap! You can also choose latching or momentary buttons when you purchase. I'm using momentary to work alongside an M-Unit. 

And good question. I will be using a Motogadget M-Unit to wire the motorcycle which takes care of most of the below functions. 

Here's an idea on how I think will run them. 

Left side
Top button: Left indicator. Press to start, press to stop. Will time out after 30sec.
Bottom button: Horn.
Back button: M-Unit Config.

Right side
Top button: Right indicator. Press to start, press to stop. Will time out after 30sec.
Bottom button: Headlight. Always on. Tap to flash highbeam, hold down to turn on highbeam. Hold down longer to turn headlight off. 
Back button: Not assigned as of yet. Maybe electric starter if I decide to get that working or a momentary kill switch.

Hope that all makes sense! 
 

New cables arrived and seem to fit all good. Also got a set of these badboys. Essentially Motogadget knockoffs - definitely the nicest made product I've ever purchased off Ali! 

1 hour ago, HighLUX said:

Top tip for doing wrap is coat your arms and hands with talcum powder.

The fine granules fill your pores stopping the fibreglass strands from hooking in there which is the cause of the itch.

Works great for doing house insulation too

Genius! I'll give this a whirl next time I have to attempt it!