Borgweiser

I use Wurth weld through primer. It's lush.

Swoon

Brakes, I don't know what model Jag you have, but most have their own handbrake pads mounted above caliper and it's quite common for one to break off a pad or come loose or a number of faults. Get it on a hoist and unbolt the lot and rotate them off over the top with the disc for easy inspection as they aren't visible in the majority of Jaguar.

Better living everyone.

ECU fault BOI

When you turn the key does the economy gauge move when cranking? If not or it's erratic that can be a sign of connector issues.

Also, have you got the fuel pressure gauge on it? You need the full working pressure from both pumps to get through the fuel distributor or it will just cycle back to tank. I have the new genuine pumps here going cheap

Otherwise the ECM or the OVP relay play up, that's the one with the red fuse on top, if that fails there will be low voltage to the fuel pump.

It's very rare for things to go wrong with the fuel distributor, very. Also they hardly ever come apart without brute force and butchery.

Also check to make sure no one fiddled with the mixture adjustment screw, they are set on a factory jig and only a quarter turn is up to 40% out on HC readings, if someone tried to tune on low fuel pressure you're in for some fun....

Giz a yell if you ever need K-Jet advice.

Forman insulation, big on insulation....

Basically have dynamat type product for a tenth the price, can't remember how much but it was really cheap /ling post

Best read in a long time, keep em coming.....

I'm in love with this wagon, considered the haul up country to rescue it myself....

I remember your parts car sitting on a lawn in Taita, Lower Hutt for many years. I know Mark from back in the day, I used to service his Lancia Thema.

Then I ended up owning it.... He's got the bug baaaad.

 I so want this.....

Sicko I know.

Having worked for Citroen as an apprentice, things are a bit hit and miss. But it would be a bit silly to write off all French cars on tales of woe from Uncle Ken who remembers the Rainbow Warrior and so is a bit biased..

As a kid my father was a Citroen dealer, so our drive was always full of BX, AX etc. My mother loved them and we never had an issue, not once.

As a young boy it was a bit Dan Dare compared to the other cars on the road, sure some of those Citroen XM's used to boast 11km of wiring, but how boring would the automotive world be without the wonders of whacky old Andre Citroen. 

I've done interstellar mileage behind the wheel of DS, ID and BX Citroen's and find the diesels especially appealing, I know other OS'ers know this, but if you haven't driven one, give it a go. Sure they depreciate like a safe of a cliff, so do what I do, buy the super luxury model for pennies and to hell with reliability. Sure I got burnt once on a lemon of a 306 which burnt out it's transponders, and a Renault 25 that caught fire from lack of maintenance on the drive home. But collectively both cars cost under $900....

When I worked for Citroen, the loyalists were what surprised me. Often the current Citroen was one in a long line dating back to the fifties and a number of generations in a family wouldn't drive anything but..

I have got most of my bits from the source over in a box for super cheap, currently I have a Renault 4- 1963 and cute as hell. I priced up two new guards and a headset the other day, 38 euros plus freight.

But don't tell everyone. prices of Fuego turbos and the like might go up as a result before I can get one. Best car of the genre in my opinion. 

I feel like you missed the relevant part of that photo request?

 

I don't see a fembots update...

 

"Without even a change of expression, both girls, singlets pulled, nungas out...."

I will do my best to track down pictures for bot thread. Wasn't my phone, I just witnessed

Basically body rot is your enemy, check sills from inside. Bulkhead rusts also.

Watch out for ones wrecked by the bag it out community of flat cap.

Engines are horrendously expensive to rebuild, carbs are also a prick. Injected ones are better but spendy.

 Transmission, electrics and running gear is bulletproof. Front kingpin wear is a huge job to fix, but secondhand complete units are around.

Basically, buy the best you can afford to save drama. Stay away from motor swapped examples, although the Windsor bolts up to the original transmission according to legend..

Here's the 2105 in all it's glory, when I pulled it out of the 93 year old Bulgarians carport, it had done 22,000k's only and never been on the motorway..

It was his departed wife's car and refused any money for it, just didn't want the local Iraqi boys to cut it up.

Seriously mint, sold it after six months of daily use at 27k, was on Trademe for 45 minutes till someone used buy now, new owner is thrilled and now the car lives in Remuera.

Beardy men loved the Lada, just to keep this relevant to this great thread

Every Jaguar I ever owned "Must be bad on gas mate" yeah not really my prerequisite when buying a Jaaag mate

Every Mercedes-Benz I ever owned, "must be expensive when it goes wrong" They don't often and parts aren't always expensive

Every modern Rover I ever owned "just a rebadged Honda isn't it" say it like it's a bad thing, also when did you ever see a Diesel Honda?

Every pre 60 car I've ever owned "must be hard to find parts for these eh" nah not really

Owning a Yellow Kombi sure has it's benefits, generally everyone is nice, good looking older woman give you that look as they recall their gap year on the continent with that Israeli dude who gave them the eat prey love no pants edition. But the gas station photoshoots annoy me, always when I'm in a hurry...

Been driving this recently,

Many an aged bogan rattles over and says he hasn't seen one in ages, we smashed heaps back in the day etc as stated in previous posts. I think some guy's just delight in telling you how many they smashed to get a rise. Tell them I don't care, and have I got a deal for them.. You can buy this rotted old puss box for cheap and relive your wasted youth. No sales as yet but still trying.

Only British car I've ever owned that gets thumbs up from Hot Rodders and Harley riders, must be the GM thing or they mistake it for a Yank.

Registering firm interest. Not just in my pants, wife is also so keen she's just dragged one of the Raleighs into the lounge..

I have spares, loads. Cheap. 

Want another now..

Hit and miss with some bearings, even from reputable manufacturers. I have huge respect for original pattern Timken bearings as I fit and fiddle them to heaps of old British stuff. Sometimes, I clean off solidified old much and dirt, blast shit through them, repack and good as new. I think it comes down to what the manufacturer specified in terms of size and load versus real world situations for reliability. I fit FAG front hubs to Volvos day in day out as it's the OEM manufacturer. 200k reliability and beautifully made, such German. In this case the bearings are totally undersize, so I want the best available for the application. It will be driven hard too.

NAC bearings might suit applications they were designed for, but by god are they cheap and rough when you handle them new.. Not a fan. Not a fan of being charged a fortune to have them installed in a unique gearbox. Not a fan of having myself look like a dick when freshly restored car gets trailered back to me when gearbox lets go over Christmas up Cape Reinga or similar. Basically not a fan of shit work and bullshit she'll be right kiwi attitude when it comes to budget shit parts.

Man, what a grumpy old fart oily gripper rant, I need to get out of this game. Might go in to real estate and sell all my old cars.

Thanks OS, this has been fun

/thread clocked

Oh how I want to be that red seat.. don't tell everyone about Nick. Then he'll be too busy to do stuff for me and he's already taking his sweet time on my kombi seats. Really cool guy, he did a customers Corniche convertible in grey hide. The local rolls expert can't tell it from factory, so damn good.

In the spirit of eric on the roof carlsson I'm gunna stick to my guns and demand oem SKF bearings coz they are the best.. also the gearbox was always a weak point on these cars and I do think oil supply was a factor as for the fact 4x the power flowing through as originally intended. Just heard from another forum that the gears need to be correctly shimmed and the diff pinion needs to be set up with the correct pre load only achievable with special tool blah blah etc. Going to make the tool and finish box off myself. When I do I'll do an update.

I must start by saying I can't release details on the vehicle or the shop in question as I don't want to be involved in slanderous claims..

As most of you know, I do a semi roaring trade working on the weird and wonderful vehicles from all parts of Europe. Mostly old and obsolete and quite finniky to work with.

Customer has a lovely old real oddball thing that I'm currently stripping the spare motor down for rebuild, the equally low mileage gearbox was sent to a local manual gearbox specialist for a check over and rebuild. During the conversations after the stripdown, He kept annoying me saying it was in good condition for one of these gearboxes (there is no way he could have ever seen one before, I know this for fact) and I start to question him about the information he is using for the stripdown and assembly (ie torque settings, differential preload etc) and he reckons he's going to set it up just like every other gearbox, no worries...

Sorry this is so long winded, but I thought I'd give a back story, basically I went in today to check progress and they have fitted up the gearbox with NAC high load bearings over the original SKF bearings, which aren't expensive when brought in from my supplier in New York in a kit. I already have a load of stuff ready to be shipped so I wish they waited as instructed. Problem is the bearings are sealed, they reckon the gear oil gets past the seals and that's how they fit up all the gearboxes these days..

This is where I get annoyed, these are main shaft, layshaft and diff bearings, they should run in oil and not swim in their own junk..

Opinions please, I'd like some advice before I pull the plug on this and kick up a shit storm.

Also the original bearings were like new once cleaned, no lateral play, quiet and smooth.

Just get someone to make you a flexiplate, tiz not as difficult an exercise as repowering as said. I can recommend a great gear cutting engineer, who just did an epic job making a new ring gear and fixing a flogged out flywheel for me.

Because Vauxhall six > Holden six

Fact.

(Tried the club? I know their weirdos of the food in beard variety. but the Wellington branch just cleared out an estate of an epic Vauxhall hoarder...)

Someone please fit this to a cyclecar

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/engines/auction-733756912.htm

I'd start there, could be cracked right up to heat exchanger. Go see silver star farm in Aucks or ring Startech. Best get a good secondhand manifold and new gaskets.

Welding works for a short time but there will be hairline cracks everywhere. Trust me I've tried..

Sounds like a fuel vaporisation issue brov, Zeniths famous for it. 

Check the routing of the fuel lines under the bonnet and under the car. Make sure it's away from the exhaust.

Don't let anyone fiddle with the carbs till you've exhausted all other options, check plugs, compressions, vacuum leaks, timing and dwell.

Only then try adjusting and checking carbs. it's only 1/16th of a turn on the mixture screw to send each carb off the scale- if they go out of sync your pretty much stuffed unless you got hours of patience and a CO meter, twin vaccum gauges etc.

I have Zenith bits if you need anything.

James

Just remember an MGB is basically a Morris Oxford convertible. All the running gear is shared. So if you want uprated shocks, more power and better diff ratios- do what the MGB boys do. You'll find a wealth of information online. If you want to go twin carbs, find a set off a Riley or similar to suit a 1622. 1800 ones are a bit rich in the jetting for your motor.

Electronic ignition is good, not neccesary if you are capable of setting up dwell correctly. Check the condition of the mechanical advance and vaccum advance as these get forgotten about and really affect performance. More importantly, rust proof the front chassis outriggers- if they are still there. famous BMC rust spot.