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Borgweiser

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Posts posted by Borgweiser

  1. +1 for P38 Range Rover, lush tow vehicle. I'm on my third and have towed tandem trailers up and down the country with ease.

     

    Just avoid the BMW diesel ones as grenade spec and motors impossible to find. Older RR diesels like the TD5 are lush.

     

    Go anywhere and not too bad reliability wise, if you're handy at screwing bits back on when they fall off. 3.5 tonne towing capacity from factory and air suspension to correct weight distribution make them ride lush as hell.

     

    Thirsty as anything, but that hardly changes much with a load on, so I only use mine for tow duties.

    • Like 1
  2. There should be a vacuum port in the right hand carburettor, it may just be lower than the previous one and a bolt on metal type.

     

    Remove the crankcase breather and cut open the top, remove the insides and weld back together, always blocked and full of tightly wound caked gauze. 

     

    Then either run to atmosphere for max stink- or plumb up to carburettors via a T piece as well as the rocker cover. Insufficient breathing leads to leaks as stated due to high crankcase pressure/gearbox in sump dramas.

     

    Make sure vacuum advance actually works also, number one fault with poor performing and over heating A series, dead advance unit

    • Like 1
  3. Dude, save your self a load of grief and drive it into Taylor Automotive. They're not the cheapest but they do this all the time, will be bout the same price as a kit and they will wind in a solid coil or such with the head still in place. 

     

    Unless someone knows another good engine reconditioner locally? I used to use Taylors when I was spannering Jags in Auck several years ago.

    • Like 1
  4. gap those rings in the bores they are going into for maximum sealing abilities. Solid lifters were used in some models (forget which), I've always preferred the drilled type for reasons you mention. Check valve guides also.

    As frosty said, some pistons aren't up to much, I have drilled bigger oil control ring drain holes into replacement pistons to cure smoking.

    Some A series bits I've come across new have been intended for industrial motors, post up pics of the pistons if you can.

  5. Mint, I brought my first 501 NZeta back in the early 2000's as a lad (13)?. Used to easily have three up on the thing.

    There used to be loads around, I once answered an add in the Trade and Exchange and this old guy had a basement full of wonders (some would say junk).

    Bizzare handling things, especially with a half filled tank... The later 502 that I brought later was greatly improved, the auto clutch engagement is a cool feature, so you only needed the clutch when stationary.

    • Like 1
  6. Must be hard getting into something that steers and stops after..

     

    Love the SD1 man, great body on that one. There's only one true solution. Injected 3.9 motor and rimmer bros 2.5'" exhaust all the way through.

     

    Just finishing up on a three year rebuild of a VDP for a customer, elsewhere did the body but I did the mechanicals. When you sample one that's built up as it was intended, they are a magical thing.

    • Like 2
  7. Yay, more Skoda's on OS.

     

    I've had a bunch of 110L and R's and know where to get a load of bits if you get stuck. Just don't tell everyone I'm a closet Skoda freak.

     

    Headgasket's weren't as big of an isuue as people made out, just most garages back in the day never got the alloy wet liner motors together right because Skoda and socks and sandals brigade..

     

    Currently I've got a 66 Sabre and a S110R stashed away, Favorit motor does bolt in, but there are issues like manifolds and cooling that need to be addressed.

    In this country due to availability you're best to find a 120L and put the motor and five speed in as an upgrade.

     

    Much chur.

     

    FB_IMG_1420528085233_zpsufjlamft.jpg

    • Like 2
  8. Brand new brazilian heads are only $300 each from Qualitat, the castings aren't German quality but the machining is good and they last well.

    87 mm pistons and barrels fit without machining and give an extra 50cc or so without compromising in barrel thickness, good for overloaded Kombi's on camping missions. 

    • Like 3
  9. I do them for around $4k, I use Ian Billing at Headmaster in Welly for the casing machining- he's the ONLY guy who can line bore them corectly

     

    Epic GC too, helped me out a lot over the years, my Kombi motor is still there getting flycut as I went silly on specification yet again.. 1900cc Type 1 powerrrrrrr

    • Like 3
  10. Dirty words and suggestions coming your way, forgive me.

     

    Keep it east west and set it up in a trike? Would be different and a pretty rad project.

     

    I worked on the only two to be imported into Wellington Caddilac Seville, both had cronic running issues and overheating as standard, horrendous parts prices at that stage (2006?) that said I still have a semi for the things and wouldn't hesitate to waste coin on one, great sounding engine.

     

    Coffee table project?

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