Borgweiser

Good score! Nice carpets

Blocked jet, strip carb, clean and go

Are you able to provide for insurance purpoesed/registered?

Gaz

Yes

$85 is the usual price for a written valuation, will do discount for OS members

I find Swann and Vero very good to deal with, club membership also helps to keep costs down. Best to also get a written valuation.

lower N/I boes remember to come see me for written insurance valuations (in exchange for beer or sim) as it makes the whole claiming for/insuring a car so much easier with an agreed certified valuation.

Awesome!

Know a guy with Lloyd part's if ya need anything, He also has a wagon version that I may just snap up..

My dad used british raised letter plates on his Rolls Royce silver cloud for over a decade, think it depends on what car they go on for how long you can get away with it...

Also if it looks legit, no one questions...

This is fantastic news, as a few of my project's have long dead 'A' registrations..

http://www.vcc.org.nz/images2/pdfs/numberplates.pdf

Official press release detailing law and procedures.

Dunno dude, hit him up and see where he's thinking dollar wise. Also explain that GN250 is a backward step not a progression...

I got FS50 BTW, not ss50 as said

Keen, need parts for my ss50 / chop fa into bobber.

Brake cleaner, AC Delco one is good, less chlorine.

check your coil windings dude, check continuity and also adjust gap between flywheel and pick-up's to about .04'

if there is no resistance between windings and baseplate you have a dud unit unfortunately

Holy shit there is an Avenger forum??

May have to sign up, so keen for another to play with, so underrated as a car..

Granny spec 1250 2dr please with a 1800 block running strombergs FTW

You need an HIF44 off a metro dude, anything else wont work at all. True story, any Metro will have one, then change needle using the old one as a base then going thinner till you eliminate flatspots. Use one of the many online calculators to eliminate guesswork with needles and it will work a lot better than rolling road plus cheaper.

Are all the hif44's suited to boost?

Yep, generally, there was no difference between standard metro and turbo one but needle profile.

Joker, draw through turbos work well, for a while.. Carbon seals and fuel dont mix too well, also blow-through SU is pretty much the simplest way to go + tried and tested

You need an HIF44 off a metro dude, anything else wont work at all. True story, any Metro will have one, then change needle using the old one as a base then going thinner till you eliminate flatspots. Use one of the many online calculators to eliminate guesswork with needles and it will work a lot better than rolling road plus cheaper.

^This for daily duties

This for the dogs

This for the bird

This as the toy

Just read this thread start to finish. you need to start again and go through the basics, remove plugs and dry engine out thoroughly, make sure the float does that- float. Often overlooked and would cause your said faults, you say you have cleaned your fuel system out with meths? You 100% sure you got it all out the system? Checked for water in the fuel? Set timing static by turning dizzy till points just open, check firing order by removing rocker cover and making sure it is timed to no1 on firing stroke, ie the inlet valve on 1 has just closed, check valve clearances whilst there and firing order of leads. Make sure needle is firmly seated and wind jet down to 1mm below the bridge to begin with. Pre warm plugs on gas cooker or with blowtorch and bang- if it doesn't go i'll eat my own poo.

This made my day, I <3 Renault 4

I spent years as a apprentice Mercedes technician and the most we ever did was glow plugs and driveshaft donuts and the usual servicing. Capable of interstellar milages if respected, like all things. Pretty solid and dependable.

I am going for a look soon, will try and talk VW nut mate into it....

tatra 6x6

OMG! Aircooled V8 Diesel Tatra

I want

Do not listen to anyone who say's a Pinto is a good idea, let alone an easy swap.. Put a side draft 38 or 40 carb on, plane head, fit roller rockers if funds allow and cam it up. Should be one quick 1300, I should know- I used to run one in a mk2 years ago and I tuned it up owing to it having only 1200-k's from new and been too good to throw away. 1600 is the best bet for starting on tbh but the 1300 will rev harder, so lightening the flywheel and balancing would also be a good idea. Oh and extractors of course and a coby, every escort needs a coby

^ soft seize ftw plz.

Yeah basically, quick nip up = ready to race/maximum piston expansion

Yeah that technique is basically it, called a plug chop. Make sure you start with a ridiculously over size (0.4+ or similar depending on mod's) and work your way down. You want it four sroking when flat out then not when you go down a jet size or two then a nice light brown colour plug. Do it the other way and risk epic rear wheel seize, if you decide to do it this way, please film it. Regards, James.

Edit;

Giz engine, mod's, carb, chamber and other spec's and may be able to help with starting point. There is also useful online tools for working this out

1 3/4 inch SU off a Metro or similar makes basically the same power, and a lot easier to tune and cheaper to buy/run. Fact.

Also, less likely to be worn in the spindles and rounded off screw's, bent linkages etc like most S/H SU kit's.

Twin carb's do look sweet tho

Hey mate, sorry I was going to reply but you know how thing's are... Walked around the Nissan bit for a while last week and couldn't see one, just Pulsar-esque thing's. Maybe someone with a bit more import knowledge (beaver)? will know what to look for. The stock list is a bit fucked at the best of times so it could have become a cube a while ago, or about to be put out. wish they'd keep the older stuff around a bit longer tbh