Borgweiser

Trans is sealed for life with synthetic fluid, they do need servicing despite popular belief but unless it's a japanese made unit (likely being 730i) they are a good unit, parts are cheap from ZF as opposed to ordering from the BMW specialists. I'd drop fuel, replace fuel filter and fit a strong battery and give it a go if it was me.

The rule with any early V8 is drop the sump and check oil pump bolts, they work loose and the oil pump drops it's chain...

The bolts are a weird adjustable type that tension the chain, early ones just give up and drop out. Massive engine failure results as the chain runs free on the lower gear. Access ain't bad and they come apart nicely, good to check the chain tensioners and guides too, the curse of early V8's- if they've been done at some stage the later parts present no problem.

3 hours ago, rotormotor said:

Are you the hoarder then 

Are the sevens parts cars only or worse, thought the tarp on right was covering a seven once.

Nah that's a mate's old mans house. He never sells anything. Has a mad collection of 7's amongst other rotang stuff.

That Morris Minor front was once a complete car and I used to drive it to school, never had brakes but it would do a second gear standstill

Ford, FIAT, Simca, BMW, Opel all used a 32/36 DFV or DGV. Same carb but mirror image of each other. Hugely popular as a replacement for most carburettors of the era

Much better than a Zenith or in this case a Stromberg, new ones available cheaper than rebuild.

As for the breather not important unless it's fumey, get a gauze type  filter kit that most 32/36 use and you'll find there's an elbow to attach the breather pipe

I had a left hook turbo diesel in manual, it was hecking lush. Build quality was shit as to be expected, but better than later Grand Cherokee ones.

Ex gf of a million years ago was little miss Tennessee and drove a black limited from around 97 she got from her father, luxury as with grey leather and black paint.

Great tow vehicle and good to go away skiing in, but around town- you're better off walking. You'd have enough to get drunk at every pub along the way rather than fuel that thing doing a crawl.

Just read through first page and last, seems like you got it found if you ask me. Hub flanges sound out of whack. get the bearings off and studs and drop to Karl at Cemeck engineering. He should be able to true them up or at least give a good opinion on them. Probably has good ones somewhere in the shop knowing him

Regarding front wheel dilemma and reading through the thread I may have some advice. MGB front discs should fit with a bit of matching of kingpins and the likes

but not sure if it's a complete bolt over job. The two share a common ancestor. I used to work on a mad Wolseley 16/60 in Auckland for a customer, with a 260 Ford motor, the Y block having the right dimensions and of course the best sound the yanks have made to date. In that situation with the added weight and power, we cannibalised the discs and five stud hubs off the six cylinder as well as the tougher back axle. Loads of ratio options and the diff at least was a bolt in job. Loads more wheel options too. 

Ended up with Rover P5 Rostyles on it which suited it, the other less fun option is get an earlier Oxford drum and shoes, the later cars had an extra half inch of material hence weird shaped drums.

Reading the above comment made my head hurt.

Also the Triumph six was used for many years by many thousand without drama, even in performance applications like the TR6 and is a tough and simple unit with plenty of spares. They sound great and even better, are already fitted in the cars, how about buying or at least trying out a well sorted out version first. 

The oil starvation at startup is a sign of a bad oil pump, spin on filter conversion and limiting the number of Barry's that have been let loose under the bonnet is the key to success.

With 45,000 big Triumph sedans built in Nelson, there's no shortage of good ones left.

Pro-tip, wool wash is awesome on black cars. Leaves no residue or marks, good for ya missus hands too

So many horror stories about when it comes to panel work, sadly I can name you a hundred places where not to go. But not many off hand I'd recommend,

I just had some work done by Classic and Modern, again heaps of good and bad said about that place (sure others here can add) but the panel work was great, I just had metal shaping done and left in primer, paint finish on some of their jobs is average but was happy as with the metalwork- maybe split jobs between places?

Wow, was that 180 a side valve motored one? If so epic trip in one of those...

Something with a pinto

I do have plates and tags for a blue Skoda S110....

Otago skoda mission?

It's more the 10k estimate for a not that low mileage grey 2000TC :/

Overseas auction house seducing old boy with made up figures, in order to secure the Xk's and future R-R auctions

/my rant

Had one same year same colour recently, 22 thousand original miles and amazing. Loved it apart from the shocking steering.

Just a FYI on the fuel pumps, I've fitted Lada type fuel pumps to Peugeot 504's which are two litre and never had an issue with starvation even during mad dorts.

Check out the leaks but then check the hose at the tank end and the pickup in the tank, I've had to rod them before to get the crud out. Pause.

ken

I gave em a ring, open till eight..

Keen to come along, has anyone actually checked they're open tomorrow? I've been past a few nights the last month and they've been closed- tonight even at about six pm...

Yeah Richard is getting a bit wayward and forgetful. Sometimes he needs several minutes to remember the most basic things we discussed just prior..

His Aronde is in good order, he also has two 1501's. Also there is another 1000 somewhere which he can't remember where he put the keys or papers.

He promised me first refusal on that blue Vedette for years and years, with his deteriating state and the fact it's in Napier worries me that I won't get the chance to own it despite waiting nearly 15 years so far...

Next time I'm in Auckland I'll try and track down the Skoda and Tatra guy who got the 1200, another reclusive character. I know where he lives, but he refuses to use a phone or the internet.

Pretty sure the 1200s coupe got dragged out several years ago. It was super rough, but it may have been another. I know the guy who supposedly got the Skoda coupes in Albany. He might know.

I see you have Richard's Chambord listed, he also has an earlier Vedette and a Aronde Etoile stashed away.

Someone needs to save that early model Aronde, I have plates for one somewhere.

Okay, my kinda thread.. Having had the same motor in three Super Minx and owning a couple of hot Sunbeam Rapier.

As stated previously, there's two camps. Work on what you got or get the bigger donk. 

My personal advice, get a late model Super Minx or Minx series VII 1725, sure they're three bearing but a good motor, later cars had improved oiling and the Isuzu cast blocks seem to be a better cast. As for what to do next, obvious choice is a good freshen up and balance, stay with the cast iron head as they flow well and alloy ones are thin on the ground, if you can find a good one, they're much easier to port and have hardened seats.

Kelford has a really good fast road cam grind on the shelf, in terms of carbs and cams etc- go Sunbeam spec, same motor- many rally wins.

I had twin SU's on one of the Rapier, the hiss and roar was magic, better performance and economy. Those carbs are sex.

The motor that graced not one but three of my Super Minx first mentioned, Sunbeam Rapier 1725 motor, balanced and overbore to 1840, extractors and twin choke weber. Would bury the needle on the 120mph speedo in top and keep pulling. Serious respect for that motor, great torque and just the right amount of rev-ability.

Hillman Munter motors are okay, loads of Barry's have run them to death by now, sure they were five bearing, but badly built compared to earlier Rootes products. Again, if you want the fast ones out the box, get a Sunbeam Rapier Fastback motor, you'll need to swap the front and back plates on the Hunter motors for the earlier ones to sit it upright, then the sump and pickup will need modifying if you drive it hard as the motor is on a 15 degree lean in Billy Bunter.

Also the inlet manifold would probably just fit in the engine bay of the Super-Minx , but the carb would be on an angle, plus Strombergs are modeled on the devils anus and should be smashed against a hard object at the earliest convenience, aftermarket manifolds will be needed, they are different to the earlier motors.

Also, best to find the right ratio diff for the car, rather than the heavy over-drive, they're hard to find and valuable, plus heavy, not much good and have a hard time fitting under the floor, if it's floor change the dirty Sierra 5 speed fits up to the original bellhousing with bugger all modification. Cheap and cheerful.

Also Humber, Hillman Car Club guys are a strange lot, Sunbeam CC guys are all good. They know a fair bit about what's under their hood.

Better living everyone

You can buy complete new tubs and the bodies are easy to fix- if not bent.

Early 3.8 +2, big money but about right. $70-$100k all done

Magirus-Deutz, German made trucks with air cooled engines. Regarded as one of the toughest fire trucks ever built.