Jump to content

KP_wag

Members
  • Posts

    250
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by KP_wag

  1. On 23/01/2019 at 19:44, phatt20 said:

    100 series corollas are the shit if you want cheap /reliable . Had my current 100 series wagon 15 years , bought with 180k , now done 980k with only servicing / brake pads/ cvs etc . Consumables basically. Still doesn’t use a drop of oil Or water . Sorta feel like I should be a grown up and buy something newer and flasher but I love the old pile of shit . 

    My findings exactly, except I've only done 300k so sounds like lotsa life yet! Also often feel like I should be upgrading, but hard to argue with the economics of keeping a car that costs nothing to run or maintain 

    • Like 2
  2. 10 minutes ago, Willdat? said:

    Maybe a dud one? I'm 188cm and found an AE101 sweet.

    I'd look at stretching my budget to something like this

    https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/toyota/auction-1912725623.htm?rsqid=f252bb8f7bac47e8a471c577d7001e38 

    I put 60,000km on my BZ Touring in a year. 

    Agree with willdat, I'm 176cm and AE100 is perfectly comfortable (for what it is), seat slides back further than it needs to for me and can drive it for hrs without squirming to get out of it. She's no race car but far from slowest thing on the road and never breaks ever

  3. Not sure how much my AE100 wagon gets fuel economy wise (manual 5AFE), but it uses feck all gas and my god it has been reliable. Bought for $2200 eight years ago as a daily driver and have only put gas in it and replaced the brake pads, tyres, battery, and oil changes as required (ie strictly consumable items). When the time comes will probably sell for the same price too... 

    • Like 2
  4. 6 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

    I have had this question before and the answer is yes you can have a bi-modal exhaust, but one side has to be quiet, and the other side has to be more quiet.  ie: you cannot have quiet and loud modes.

    So effectively exactly what you and Cletus have said.

    Great, will look to go that way then I think, a boost referenced valve that is as loud (flowey) as legally poss when open, and quiet as possible when closed

  5. 5 hours ago, Testament said:

    this exhaust noise thing brings up another question

    while you said baffles etc should need tools to be removed but what about the case of a baffle to make the exhaust quiet for oldman reasons

    basically similar to a lot of modern supercars/high performance cars that have some kind of varex type butterfly valve thing in the exhaust

    the idea being with the valve open the exhaust is louder - but still passes noise requirements but with the valve closed the car is proper quiet for nice cruising/not upsetting everyone when you are just going to get a bottle of mlik from the servo?

     

     

    I'm interested in this - suspect I'm the old man you speak of... Keen to have unrowdy whisper quiet sleeper spec for tootling into work carpark and have free-er flow when on the gas for my conversion (was thinking boost referenced).

    Re OK if OEM, I assume the OEM bit is the chassis/body versus engine? I believe some HSVs had vacuum actuated exhaust valves and donor motor is LS so?... Recipient is Hilux so nothing fancy there exhaust-wise

  6. Good on you for the motivation/energy to take him to court over it, I bet most fucktards that try that sort of shit are relying on people just taking the sucker punch, and this will be a pain in his ass. I'm honestly at a loss that there are people out there who try this sort of thing on. I like the idea of dumping heaps of dead and leaking transmissions in his front yard

    • Haha 1
    • Sad 1
  7. When you build these custom expansion setups do you know how sensitive they are in terms to sizing and the dynamics of the motor in question? ie is any chamber a good thing or do they need to be tuned proper? They look cool for sure just wondering if it's possible to design something that sucks in terms of exhaust timing (or other extreme get lucky and have something that rips)... 

  8. 20 hours ago, MaxPower said:

    messed up with these callipers I spent loads on re-kitting, internet said they are a good upgrade but I never measured to check see photo.

    not too sure if theres a way to make an adapter plate or something. fitted longer brake hose to the rear tonight, used one of those no friends brake bleeder things man they work sweet. 

     

    IMG_1541.jpg

    Thought it was weird you were using 80 series stuff as had never heard of that.

     

    Mate has a vizsla x huntaway - it's bananas 

  9. Here's a pic of it dirty :grin:

     

    Not so keen on the big elaborate roo bar spec, mostly used for mudding and mountain access as opposed to bush bashing so never got a hammering up top. Copy away, by memory I got the centre section folded out of 3mm mild sheet and reinforced behind it with box will try and dig out the pics

    4x4 31.jpg

    • Like 2
  10. 4.56s will be awesome, were in my truck that also had H55F - motor was a fair bit revvier than your diesel but sounds like 4.1s ain't doing it for you so you obviously know what yer in for. 

    Here's a couply pics of the bumpers I built for my lump, I removed the PTO as was a massive overhang and with the better approach angles found I barely needed a winch. 

     

     

     

     

    rainy cruiser.jpg

    rainy cruiser 2.jpg

    • Like 4
  11. Shit man BJs got stature, looks friggin good. 

    You should build a badass front bumper for it, ditch the chrome for something minimalist that tucks up to fill the body lift gap. 

×
×
  • Create New...