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Posts posted by KP_wag
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3 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:
It's a 2002 Kawasaki ZX12R
This is so great, you are living my dream project. Look forward to hearing max revs sound clips
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What flavour donky donk? You're in it for real now, looking forward to seeing the progress...
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On 23/01/2019 at 19:44, phatt20 said:
100 series corollas are the shit if you want cheap /reliable . Had my current 100 series wagon 15 years , bought with 180k , now done 980k with only servicing / brake pads/ cvs etc . Consumables basically. Still doesn’t use a drop of oil Or water . Sorta feel like I should be a grown up and buy something newer and flasher but I love the old pile of shit .
My findings exactly, except I've only done 300k so sounds like lotsa life yet! Also often feel like I should be upgrading, but hard to argue with the economics of keeping a car that costs nothing to run or maintain
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Read your thread end to end and got many smiles from it. Also nicely reinforces my allegiance to jap cars...
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10 minutes ago, Willdat? said:
Maybe a dud one? I'm 188cm and found an AE101 sweet.
I'd look at stretching my budget to something like this
I put 60,000km on my BZ Touring in a year.
Agree with willdat, I'm 176cm and AE100 is perfectly comfortable (for what it is), seat slides back further than it needs to for me and can drive it for hrs without squirming to get out of it. She's no race car but far from slowest thing on the road and never breaks ever
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Not sure how much my AE100 wagon gets fuel economy wise (manual 5AFE), but it uses feck all gas and my god it has been reliable. Bought for $2200 eight years ago as a daily driver and have only put gas in it and replaced the brake pads, tyres, battery, and oil changes as required (ie strictly consumable items). When the time comes will probably sell for the same price too...
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As is the way progress slower than hoped on this money pit, so many damn projects jumping the queue but still inching forward...
Built the driveshaft hoops, very happy with the fit and much nicer to look at than the previous hoop setup. Even If I wanted to be lazy and reuse the previous setup, it was not (re)certifiable given that it was made of 45x5mm steel (minimum spec 50x5mm). Pic of the old setup for your viewing pleasure - some proud metal work right there.
Also got the last of the crossmembers modified/built. This one ties the frame rails together just behind the engine, but new giganto gearbox would hit even with it tucked up tight in the tunnel. In this case I cut some 20mm plate to same footprint of the member, tacked it to the bottom and then cut out the centre of the original box section. Came out good with no loss of ground clearance, 12mm plate probably wouldve sufficed but scored the material off a mate and whats a bit more weight in 2 ton brick anyway.
And finally tidied up manifolds and got them coated. Hopefully keeps the temps down as the primaries are pretty long so a lot of steel to heat things up.
Next on the list is new diff...
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My guess is once it's got the cert on it, WOF guy will not be that interested (my WOF guy at least).
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6 minutes ago, KKtrips said:
I have had this question before and the answer is yes you can have a bi-modal exhaust, but one side has to be quiet, and the other side has to be more quiet. ie: you cannot have quiet and loud modes.
So effectively exactly what you and Cletus have said.Great, will look to go that way then I think, a boost referenced valve that is as loud (flowey) as legally poss when open, and quiet as possible when closed
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10 hours ago, cletus said:
https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Exhaust_Noise_Emissions.pdf
2.1 has the requirements for what you are talking about
Thanks for that. So my reading of that is that you can have a switched 'bimodal' exhaust as long as it is not manually actuated and as long as it doesn't exceed the max decibel limits under either mode?
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5 hours ago, Testament said:
this exhaust noise thing brings up another question
while you said baffles etc should need tools to be removed but what about the case of a baffle to make the exhaust quiet for oldman reasons
basically similar to a lot of modern supercars/high performance cars that have some kind of varex type butterfly valve thing in the exhaust
the idea being with the valve open the exhaust is louder - but still passes noise requirements but with the valve closed the car is proper quiet for nice cruising/not upsetting everyone when you are just going to get a bottle of mlik from the servo?
I'm interested in this - suspect I'm the old man you speak of... Keen to have unrowdy whisper quiet sleeper spec for tootling into work carpark and have free-er flow when on the gas for my conversion (was thinking boost referenced).
Re OK if OEM, I assume the OEM bit is the chassis/body versus engine? I believe some HSVs had vacuum actuated exhaust valves and donor motor is LS so?... Recipient is Hilux so nothing fancy there exhaust-wise
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Good on you for the motivation/energy to take him to court over it, I bet most fucktards that try that sort of shit are relying on people just taking the sucker punch, and this will be a pain in his ass. I'm honestly at a loss that there are people out there who try this sort of thing on. I like the idea of dumping heaps of dead and leaking transmissions in his front yard
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Who needs turbos anyway. You barried up a dyno in yer shed or something?
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When you build these custom expansion setups do you know how sensitive they are in terms to sizing and the dynamics of the motor in question? ie is any chamber a good thing or do they need to be tuned proper? They look cool for sure just wondering if it's possible to design something that sucks in terms of exhaust timing (or other extreme get lucky and have something that rips)...
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Glamour shots on trademe look so lush, are you happy or sad?
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40 minutes ago, Kimjon said:
I'm in no hurry to finish it...
Lols at this, so done end of labour w/e then?
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20 hours ago, MaxPower said:
messed up with these callipers I spent loads on re-kitting, internet said they are a good upgrade but I never measured to check see photo.
not too sure if theres a way to make an adapter plate or something. fitted longer brake hose to the rear tonight, used one of those no friends brake bleeder things man they work sweet.
Thought it was weird you were using 80 series stuff as had never heard of that.
Mate has a vizsla x huntaway - it's bananas
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Hilarious, is it super loud?
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Here's a pic of it dirty
Not so keen on the big elaborate roo bar spec, mostly used for mudding and mountain access as opposed to bush bashing so never got a hammering up top. Copy away, by memory I got the centre section folded out of 3mm mild sheet and reinforced behind it with box will try and dig out the pics
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4.56s will be awesome, were in my truck that also had H55F - motor was a fair bit revvier than your diesel but sounds like 4.1s ain't doing it for you so you obviously know what yer in for.
Here's a couply pics of the bumpers I built for my lump, I removed the PTO as was a massive overhang and with the better approach angles found I barely needed a winch.
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How's that spare
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Shit man BJs got stature, looks friggin good.
You should build a badass front bumper for it, ditch the chrome for something minimalist that tucks up to fill the body lift gap.
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Awesome if that exhaust somehow gave this thing ridic peaky MX powerband powers. Would make an sweet city commuter, KX80 lightswitch action up the footpath ring ting BARRRRP-P-P
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Matt's 1951 Chevy Pickup - Discussion
in Project Discussion
Posted
A thing of beauty, love yer work. Must be so stoked to get this over the line - awesome job