JasonK

I agree with kk there, NZHRA is kind of a must for some people due to fenderless but I'm an NSRA member and it's pretty similar to OS, however we aren't taking any new members untill after the next agm due to some internal shit. 

I agree Taupo has done its dash and Napier is pretty easy for me haha, if I remember there was talk of ohakune last time?

I think the scrub check is for one flat tire, i.e. one side low, so that helps a bit.

Yeah scrub line is basically 2 lines drawn from the bottom of the rims to where the tyres meet the ground and nothing can be below that, you do it both side on and front/rear too

edit:

For the record- you have proven EVERYONE right. The car cannot be repaired due to the multiple layers now visible.

 

I wouldn't say that the car cannot be repaired,Its just a bit more of a job to remove the complete rail and weld in a new one but even if it wasn't multi layered it would still not be a good idea to cut and join it.

anything can be repaired, whether it's worth the time and money is another story.

^that is pretty much my thoughts too,(I'm a panel beater too)

you never know what else has moved so you always pull everything until it's square and then cut off what you need to (as I said when you first asked), however that doesn't include sectioning the rail, if anything to replace it, it would need to be unpicked completely and replaced as a whole so that you're not altering the frontal impact structure of the car, however you haven't listened to any advice this far so not sure you will now either.

why are my holidays always a year ahead of you guys, doing the states again this year so I'm out.

No, the crease will pull out and weld up the tear but even if you were to replace it you would still need to pull it straight first 

Question 1 is were would be the best place to cut and weld new chassis rail?

You shouldn't be cutting and replacing it at all. that rail looks as if it would pull out fine, you should only need to replace the rad support panel and maybe the front cross member, the rest should pull out fine

Question 2 will i need some kind of cert or someone to sign off work done?

that depends on if the car has been de-registered or not and if anyone notices it's been repaired.

I'll be there.

Can't see this being the last year, possibly the last year with Noddy running the show but surely someone else will take over

Tech Article

Do you still have to shrink the perimiter if you were to use a bead roller and stop shy of the edge?

No you shouldn't need to

I just put a switch in mine so that it would adjust in park, its just a switch on the firewall with a tab welded to the shifter arm

most cert guys aren't keen on ones that will let you adjust your height in neutral or the hand brake as it's pretty easy to just slip it into neutral or put the handbrake on a click and flick switches at 100kph etc

haha I do stuff occasionally.

keen to hit breakfast next weekend.

unless you have photos and repair cert, if they spot old repairs THEY WILL grind back your paint.

If they spot the slightest amount of surface rust THEY WILL make you get it sand blasted

(coming from experience) hold on tight for a long and heart braking ride 

 

Bottom line you have to get a repair cert or you will be screwed. Just getting a repair cert will screw you though

I've done full panel and repaints on quite a few cars that haven't been in the system and there's never been an issue with needing a repair cert, the only time I've ever had to get repair certs done is if the car was de-registered due to accident damage (normally if its an insurance right off) or if the car was tagged for rust when it was imported. 

I'm a panel beater in Napier and rust repairs/resto work is what I mainly deal with, would be happy to have a look at the car and give you an idea of what I think next time your in town

Please try to get out to Gene Winfield's, google it up. It's the thing on my list I missed, and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna kick myself forever about that because he'll die soon, he's pushing 80.

We stopped in and checked out Gene's shop last year, real nice guy, showed us round etc but it is quite a way out of the way.

maybe its time I chased up the cert guy then

How long does it normally take after passing a cert to get the plate? not that I'm in a hurry haha the motor's in bits now.

If this was on a saturday night I'd make the trip down for it

Cheers guys.

Figured out the noise was the heat riser flap in the exhaust.

A few weeks back I took the caprice down to levin to get it certed for the bags, only failed on a couple of little things:

• the nylocs on the shock mounts only had about one thread sticking out and needed to have at least 2. 
• on the top of the shocks I'd used 2 nuts (as it was from factory) but needed to use nylocs instead
• I needed my air lines clamped every 300mm and they were only clamped where I thought it needed to be to keep it tidy etc 

So nothing major so was pretty stoked about that and it worked out really well as the cert guy was coming up to the swapmeet this weekend so he did the recheck on friday afternoon, so now I've just gotta wait for the cert plate and will be legal again 

Probably gunna cruise down n check this out

I used pvc air brake line for my setup

I've not long ago finished bagging my hearse, I got a lot of my stuff from a mate locally who imports parts to sell. York pumps are definitely the go.

When you going to grab? I'll be major keen to drink a whole lot of beers 

I'll be there, possibly wont make the ride but will definitely be there for the drinking, and hopefully not break any bones this year