sgtjackass

Its a supercharged Trueno. 1988.

Been in the back yard for 7 months.

The Wof guy recons it is solid. I cant find any rust on it.

So i was planning on buying a car. Saw it at a mates place up to its windows in grass. Dragged it out, reconned alternator, replaced smashed window and took it for a drive- sweet as. Nek minute- spent 20+ hours cleaning, lubricating and fixing everything from paint imperfections to stitching up seat tears.

Take it for a WOF and it fails. Exhaust system is rotten, and leaking brakes. All symptoms of sitting in wet grass. No rust at all.

I get quotes and they add up to the value of the car. This is with me replacing the brakes.

It should be cheap, economical and reliable when sorted

But when is enough enough? The guy still wants some cash, and has to back pay the rego. Certainly not an investment but perhaps a cheap daily. When do you walk away? I prob couln't get anything as fast, comfy or economical for the price

Hi there

Got an older a15 vanette, cant for the life of me find the fuse box to change a headlight relay

Anyone know where the bloody thing is?

Ta

Its an early trueno.

Il do just that, bring a battery get it running.

I recon its either the alternator fuse or a poked external regulator. From what Ive read these regs are only on bigport motors. So im assuming that a regular ol fxgt one should do the trick. I have heard that these bits are hard to find in other countries, but we got tonnes of these cars in NZ so a reg should be easy enough to find.

So yea im friken keen. Whats a good one of these worth? 140,000k's, white, great condition, good interior, basic mags and standard exhaust?

Cheers for the help

Car is pretty standard, lovells low springs and black 15's, pod filter with CAI and a pully kit

Il go have a look, bring the multimeter and see what I can do.

Im worried that if I get it running, he will want full price, at the price he wants now its a steal. Reg on hold, been sitting in a shed for 8 months unused ect.

Great help as always. Cheers

Hey

I have the opportunity to buy a mint condition, tastefully modded toyota trueno supercharged for cheap.

The only problem is : The car doesnt charge the battery. The guy recons he has put a reconned alternator on it...

Is there any quirks with these cars in regards to the electrics, I thought they were a simple motor.

Where should I look/test to see where its going wrong

Cheers

Just picked up my vanette today. Stoked with my purchase couple of questions though....

The speedo is about 30% too high. My wheels are 14" mags with lowish profile tyres so i dont believe that I have gone down on rolling diameter.

Does this mean the diff/gearbox has been changed? I dont have a rev counter but im pretty sure the little a15 wasnt reving its tits off at 100. What would be the solution to this?

The brakes are well... abit wierd. Engine not running-Pedal firm as. As soon as the motor is running the pedal will sink to the floor, but still brakes all good at this stage. Makes a 'hissing' noice on depression. Motor also coughs abit when slow speed braking. Im 99% sure its not the MC, what could be the issue?

Im guessing it the booster/valve.

Any help would be appreciated

Hey Team

Tomorrow I pick up my vanette. Its on mags but is awefully high for my liking.

The rear is leafs so that is relatively strait forward. Does anyone have any experience with the front springs?

It is a c20 a15 model.

Anyhelp would be much appreciated

Cheers

For Sale

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=28451&p=682914#p682914

Thanks guys. It can be lowered heaps but its only static as you see it. The front forks are as high as they can be (easily adjusted on the front clamps) and the rear is 'coilover' style and is pretty much maxxed. When a guy of my size sits on it it sags about 6" at the back. When riding it still has about 6" of suspension travel. Its hard to tell what cc it is, but from my internets readings it looks like it is a 140cc. It weighs 50kgs. When i painted it i brought 'gunmetal grey' enamel paint. It turns out that is is more primer grey colour. But whats done is done. The tank has been panel beated and preped and takes about 2 minutes to take off. Would be super easy to sand off the clear coat and change colours. The decals were $10 bux, so not a great loss to change the colour/scheme.

I have no Idea what its worth, I brought it for $500, the rear master cylnder was leaking and needed some modification to make it road-safe. (the static throw was far too long... Got a new 'push' rod made to make it more direct). The paint was shagged and the tank was dented. The motor was running really poorly to the point where you would never want to ride it anywhere public. The muffler was fricken loud ect.

Im sure it would go faster than 80 especially with someone smaller on it. That was a decent uphill, full throttle for about 10 seconds. If anyone in palmy wants to see it/ride it feel free to PM me

In other news I got pulled up today by the police. They went over it and couldn't fault it!. They knew it was on the dodge side but according to their rule book it was sweet. They told me to go home for the day or they would look harder

Hi Guys.

Almost finished off my bike, thought Id post here of my progress.

New Paintjob, decals, rebuilt brakes front and rear. New muffler packing and carb jets. Soft seat with faux leather cover. Electronic Bike speedo.

Does anyone know how I can shorten these cables easily/cheaply?

Its for sale if anyone is keen.

Cheers.

Found the problem finally. Will post it here because it might catch some of the boes out with their scooters

In the slide of a genuine mikuni carb there is the needle and a spring. There is also a tiny little springclip that holds the needle static that was missing from this particular carb. The lack of clip meant the needle was floating up and down causing unpreditable running. A new clip fixed a whole host of wierd symptoms. Online diagrams did not show this clip.

Also if anyone wants to buy a carb to suit a 90-125cc 4 stroke pm me. Brand new $30 chinese mikuni. I brought it to fix the problem, then realised what the problem was so dont need it. Ran the bike fine.

Just a thought... I have a fully refirb'ed matt-black morrison 10 speed, new tyres, wheels trued, ect. If anyone wants to buy it/borrow it for the summit they are welcome to pick it up in palmy on the way through.

Just in case people are keen but bikeless. Im busy at the time

Some good ideas... 4 stroke 125cc

I opened up the pipe and put the guts of japanese 150cc dirtbike inside, replaced the packing and put back together

so instead of it being --- its now-=- if you get me. Instead of being strait through it now has two pipes running side by side

Im sure its not because of the exhaust though. It was doing that before i played with it.

It used to be loud , now its very quiet.

Goes well at full throttle. Plug is black so I dont think its lean.

Will check all of the above

Its a genuine mikuni. Yup it has an adjustment range controlled by a wee circlip. Will try tomorrow. Im not expert but it feels more serious than that. But could be a start

Hey guys

Im gutted I missed the meat, shithouse really expecially cause I live in palmy now.

Anyway I brought Andy's pitbike/cafe racer thing while he was up. Im trying to fix it up so its bearable for everyday shennanigans. I managed to quiet the exhaust down but to be honest it runs like ass an I'd appreciate some advice.

Its starts sweet as

It idles fine

But at about 0-50% throttle. It coughs and splutters.

50-100% throttle is good

After Ive hit full throttle, if I keep it on the gas its fine, but as soon as I button off it dies and wont run on anything but idle or full throttle for 5 or so seconds

I have stripped the carb, cleaned out the jets, adjusted the air mixture screw, checked the plug (very black, lots of dry sooty stuff). The carb is not leaking.

Any help would be appreciated

Nah man, the company hasn't been that flash. I ordered one, paid then realised the money was put back in my acct. rung them, they said that they were out of stock and had also got the price wrong Can't tell me when they are arriving.

Im just going to put the plans on hold for now untill I can source a kit!

shear bolts?

Hey guys

Im about to buy a stolen and recovered car... The only major is that is has no ignition. (it has a screwdriver in it)

Im a fairly mechanical guy but don't have many specialised tools, is this something I can fix myself? if not, how much do you think it would cost to pay someone to do it, and what sort of people should I bring it to?

Car is a mid 80's nissan sedan

Cheers

Happy to maintain a small motor. The only problem is that the ol morrison brakes are hardly up to the job. Going down a hill full tilt they don't really slow me down.

To do this properly and safely Im going to need to get all new cables and outters.

I have stipped the frame, and using the best bits from two bikes. Have had to ditch my aero bars in order to run a throttle

Hey folks

I have an old morrison 10 speed in brown that i found in the river. I have since got it up to scratch, put period aero bars, all new bearings, new chain, new seat and new tyres on it and ride to uni everyday. Since my motorbike has sold and the price of gas is stupid, i am seriously contemplating a full bike rebuild including new brakes and the install of a motrax 48cc bike kit like this.. http://www.motrax.co.nz/index.php/compo ... egory_id=6

Now.. just before I press buy now I thought Id look to you chaps for your opinion. Is it a good idea..., what is the chance that it would be illegal and result in bad times? Would it last? would it be a worthwhile investment? Is it a stupid idea...

In my mind...

Pros: Could use it like a scooter, go distance, go to work, cheap to purchase, cheap to run, different.

Cons: Might be really fricken loud, possibly illegal, chinese shit, may wreak the classic good looks of a morri ten speed

Your opinions are valued

Cheers

Hi

After getting sick of the constant drip in the rain emitting from the rear of my hood lining I thought id take a look.

Basically I saw the drain pipes were all wonky so gave one a little push to get it back on the grommet from the sunroof drain assembly. It fell apart, the entire rear of the 'tub' is rusted to bits.

Now... its been repaired shonkly in the past by way of replacement of glass with a perspex panel with wood supporting 'bars' surrounded by what appears to be black silicon .

Whilst procrastinating at uni ive decided I want to take the car off the road and fix all the issues in one sweep. I was thinking id cut away the tub and weld a panel over but i think that roof warp would be inevitable with my average welding skills.

It appears that the 'tub' part is held on with spot welds and glue. My plan is to remove this area (by drilling out welds and scraping off glue) and replace the panel with a flush carbon fibre panel (i build boats so have the material and skills).

My question is: is there any legal issues I have to deal with here?

Cheers for any help you can shine on this topic and any suggestions

Hi guys, you may be able to help me with a non honda specific inquiry.

My car is running very well but 'pops' alot during deceleration (sp?). Even if i give the throttle a small stab at idle it will rev then pop. I have seen it at night and these pops light up the tailpipe pretty well. Now im not worried about the popping, or the fire out the pipe, what i am interested in is:

1) Are these pops indicative/ a symptom of poor tuning ie timing ect?

The reason i ask is because the car feels a little strangled, like it should and could be faster. 140hp in a 800kg car should be pretty lethal, yet sometimes It feels a little lethargic. Compressions are spot on, plugs look fine and fuel economy is unbelivabley good.

The other question i have relates to exhaust backpressure. The car currently has very little in the way of exhaust. It has a 2 1/4" pipe with 2 short coby resonators. It is loud to the point where ear muffs are almost needed on long trips. Obviously this is not ideal as it draws attention (not good when your driving a bright yellow crx) so will be changed. The guy at pitstop was all like 'yea those twin cam zc's love a bit of backpressure, you need this (points to a restrictive $200 dollar muffler destined for a holden of some sort)'

2) By putting in a more restrictive muffler, and therfore by increasing backpressure, am I likely to gain any HP?

Sorry this is a bit long winded, but im no engineer.

Cheers

My girls a keeper, meh shes got her own car anyway. or theres the bus. Not sure about the pink and orange bit. Plans are to lower it, upgrade shox and sway bars, strip it, paint it black and use as daily. Might look into tickling the engine a little aswell. Ive just done a road trip in it, so goddam loud almost need ear plugs or something. Maybe I should just roll around with a helmet on.

I am, quite frankly, disgusted in this car. But after I lost my job and became broke i had to find a cheap hack. And cheap it is. Auckland to Palmy for $35 bux, amazing fuel economy. Its raggedly fast but I feel like im in a coffin. My gf refuses to get in it. I dont blame her, it is disgusting and the front guards and bottom of the doors are made of plastic. Basically everything black on the car is plastic. I know how much everyone likes hondas so thought I would post it

Specs: 1985 Crx Ballade sports

1.6 dohc zc engine 145hp, Manual Box

No real exhaust. 2 1/4 inch, couple of resonators

Aluminium intake pipe, cheap foam Pod

Weighs 800 kg, seats 2

Torsion bar front end, springs rear.

Basically looking into putting it on the track, and using it as a daily until everything is good on the job front.

Cheers