sgtjackass

You could indeed rego it as a 50. Its obviously a 'big' scooter, but not like a suzuki burgman or anything. Parked it next to one of those big chinese 50's and its about the same size. Ideally i think that would be best for it, or to cut it up and chuck the motor in something else. While it is in amazing condition to be fair i have no idea if it has a clean title, isnt stolen ect. Was left at a mates to defer costs from a shit flatmate of his Im in wellington. Just want to recover my costs. A few hundy would do it.

Hi there Recently aquired this beast. Honda CH250 Elite 250cc Single watercooled 4 stroke 120 kg's 130km/hr top speed 98 Mpg Twist and Go! Hadn't been going since 2010, a new battery, new throttle cable and a fresh tank of gas has it running perfectly. It is an absolute wheelie machine, so much fun to ride, real quiet and sedate too. Digital dash is so 80's. Unfortunately i am moving and gotta flick it. Reg= Dereg But has VIN plate so is in the system, and looks to be in excellent mechanical order. Has what looks like brand new tyres and starts and stops perfectly.

Just picked up my vanette today. Stoked with my purchase couple of questions though.... The speedo is about 30% too high. My wheels are 14" mags with lowish profile tyres so i dont believe that I have gone down on rolling diameter. Does this mean the diff/gearbox has been changed? I dont have a rev counter but im pretty sure the little a15 wasnt reving its tits off at 100. What would be the solution to this? The brakes are well... abit wierd. Engine not running-Pedal firm as. As soon as the motor is running the pedal will sink to the floor, but still brakes all good at this stage. Makes a 'hissing' noice on depression. Motor also coughs abit when slow speed braking. Im 99% sure its not the MC, what could be the issue? Im guessing it the booster/valve. Any help would be appreciated

Hey Team Tomorrow I pick up my vanette. Its on mags but is awefully high for my liking. The rear is leafs so that is relatively strait forward. Does anyone have any experience with the front springs? It is a c20 a15 model. Anyhelp would be much appreciated Cheers

For Sale viewtopic.php?f=16&t=28451&p=682914#p682914

Thanks guys. It can be lowered heaps but its only static as you see it. The front forks are as high as they can be (easily adjusted on the front clamps) and the rear is 'coilover' style and is pretty much maxxed. When a guy of my size sits on it it sags about 6" at the back. When riding it still has about 6" of suspension travel. Its hard to tell what cc it is, but from my internets readings it looks like it is a 140cc. It weighs 50kgs. When i painted it i brought 'gunmetal grey' enamel paint. It turns out that is is more primer grey colour. But whats done is done. The tank has been panel beated and preped and takes about 2 minutes to take off. Would be super easy to sand off the clear coat and change colours. The decals were $10 bux, so not a great loss to change the colour/scheme. I have no Idea what its worth, I brought it for $500, the rear master cylnder was leaking and needed some modification to make it road-safe. (the static throw was far too long... Got a new 'push' rod made to make it more direct). The paint was shagged and the tank was dented. The motor was running really poorly to the point where you would never want to ride it anywhere public. The muffler was fricken loud ect. Im sure it would go faster than 80 especially with someone smaller on it. That was a decent uphill, full throttle for about 10 seconds. If anyone in palmy wants to see it/ride it feel free to PM me In other news I got pulled up today by the police. They went over it and couldn't fault it!. They knew it was on the dodge side but according to their rule book it was sweet. They told me to go home for the day or they would look harder

Hi Guys. Almost finished off my bike, thought Id post here of my progress. New Paintjob, decals, rebuilt brakes front and rear. New muffler packing and carb jets. Soft seat with faux leather cover. Electronic Bike speedo. Does anyone know how I can shorten these cables easily/cheaply? Its for sale if anyone is keen. Cheers.

shear bolts?

Hey guys Im about to buy a stolen and recovered car... The only major is that is has no ignition. (it has a screwdriver in it) Im a fairly mechanical guy but don't have many specialised tools, is this something I can fix myself? if not, how much do you think it would cost to pay someone to do it, and what sort of people should I bring it to? Car is a mid 80's nissan sedan Cheers

Hi After getting sick of the constant drip in the rain emitting from the rear of my hood lining I thought id take a look. Basically I saw the drain pipes were all wonky so gave one a little push to get it back on the grommet from the sunroof drain assembly. It fell apart, the entire rear of the 'tub' is rusted to bits. Now... its been repaired shonkly in the past by way of replacement of glass with a perspex panel with wood supporting 'bars' surrounded by what appears to be black silicon . Whilst procrastinating at uni ive decided I want to take the car off the road and fix all the issues in one sweep. I was thinking id cut away the tub and weld a panel over but i think that roof warp would be inevitable with my average welding skills. It appears that the 'tub' part is held on with spot welds and glue. My plan is to remove this area (by drilling out welds and scraping off glue) and replace the panel with a flush carbon fibre panel (i build boats so have the material and skills). My question is: is there any legal issues I have to deal with here? Cheers for any help you can shine on this topic and any suggestions

Hi guys, you may be able to help me with a non honda specific inquiry. My car is running very well but 'pops' alot during deceleration (sp?). Even if i give the throttle a small stab at idle it will rev then pop. I have seen it at night and these pops light up the tailpipe pretty well. Now im not worried about the popping, or the fire out the pipe, what i am interested in is: 1) Are these pops indicative/ a symptom of poor tuning ie timing ect? The reason i ask is because the car feels a little strangled, like it should and could be faster. 140hp in a 800kg car should be pretty lethal, yet sometimes It feels a little lethargic. Compressions are spot on, plugs look fine and fuel economy is unbelivabley good. The other question i have relates to exhaust backpressure. The car currently has very little in the way of exhaust. It has a 2 1/4" pipe with 2 short coby resonators. It is loud to the point where ear muffs are almost needed on long trips. Obviously this is not ideal as it draws attention (not good when your driving a bright yellow crx) so will be changed. The guy at pitstop was all like 'yea those twin cam zc's love a bit of backpressure, you need this (points to a restrictive $200 dollar muffler destined for a holden of some sort)' 2) By putting in a more restrictive muffler, and therfore by increasing backpressure, am I likely to gain any HP? Sorry this is a bit long winded, but im no engineer. Cheers

My girls a keeper, meh shes got her own car anyway. or theres the bus. Not sure about the pink and orange bit. Plans are to lower it, upgrade shox and sway bars, strip it, paint it black and use as daily. Might look into tickling the engine a little aswell. Ive just done a road trip in it, so goddam loud almost need ear plugs or something. Maybe I should just roll around with a helmet on.

I am, quite frankly, disgusted in this car. But after I lost my job and became broke i had to find a cheap hack. And cheap it is. Auckland to Palmy for $35 bux, amazing fuel economy. Its raggedly fast but I feel like im in a coffin. My gf refuses to get in it. I dont blame her, it is disgusting and the front guards and bottom of the doors are made of plastic. Basically everything black on the car is plastic. I know how much everyone likes hondas so thought I would post it Specs: 1985 Crx Ballade sports 1.6 dohc zc engine 145hp, Manual Box No real exhaust. 2 1/4 inch, couple of resonators Aluminium intake pipe, cheap foam Pod Weighs 800 kg, seats 2 Torsion bar front end, springs rear. Basically looking into putting it on the track, and using it as a daily until everything is good on the job front. Cheers

Cheers Guys Yea I hope this one doesnt blow up. Wouldn't suprise me tho Off for a hunt for a turbo... Or... is it possible to replace the oil seals at home? or beta a job left to the pros? any idea of cost on something like this?

Cheers Fuel yep ive just taken off the intercooler piping and its pretty dry and clean. Plugs are pretty clean leading me to beleive that the engine is not burning the oil internally. Another question then... what turbo would you recomend replacing it with? its a t25 atm. would a t28 bold strait up? Keep the suggestions coming, im hoping its the turbo

Hi guys Ive just brought a rover tomcat for next to nothing. Its tidyish but ive noticed a big problem Ive noticed that upon decelleration (sp?) and engine braking conditions smoke pours out of the exhaust. It doesnt smoke upon start up, boost, idle or any other time. The guy I brought it off mentioned that he thought it was the turbo, but that would be too easy. Smoke looks blueish Have you guys ever had this occur, what could it be and how could i check for it? I guess its either turbo, valve stem seals, or pcv valve (hopefully) Cheers for your time

yup will do wen i have a spare sec. i need new wheels and tyres 4 it caus i want to increase the rolling diameter as i do alot of highway miles from tauranga to palmy for study. the paint is pretty much f**kd and interior is pretty sad, ive spent lots fixing shitty repairs and dodgy mods so its been abit of a money pit. but almost got all the niggly issues sorted. 100bhp out of a 1256 is possible, but does not make for a nice to drive car, plus you wouldnt want to be be seeing that figure often as by that stage its revving so hard and feels like its going to blow.

no sheets unfort, dyno was an old style tuning dyno, with just a big dial next to it, dont know how accurate it was . Gotta recomend those guys cause they were awesome and charged reasonably - Engines and tuning ltd, st john street, Tauranga. It goes alryt, im used to modernish fuel injection so its rough as guts to drive, hardly idles and is loud as, vibrates heaps, is a pig to start and has lots of (cam?) lag. real thirsty if i give it shit. it will probly be making less now caus ive backed off the timing so i can run 96 instead of 98 plus octane booster. Im gunna go to pik a part 2day and scope out a electric pump off a carby car. hopefully thatl fix the prob. cheers 4 ur help

cheers for the replies, yea fuel pumps are pretty poor design and ive got about 10 orso as spares. what would ya recomend?

Hey fullaz, got my chevette all sorted, so i thought. Weber was rebuilt and rejetted, most of the ignition system (minus coil and leads) replaced and extractors fitted with 2" exhaust and tuned- 70hp at wheels . Now however, after a few umm high speed runs, i have discovered that if ive been hard on the gas for a while it will suddenly loose all power and will cough and fart for a bit. Im a bit lost, all i can think of is that the float bowl is bein sucked dry. Otherwise it runs mint, and embarresses a few hoodie boys in their civics. Any of u chaps had something similar happen? any help would be appreciated as i cant afford any more dyno time. Cheers

im in tauranga. car is going into the shop tomorrow and theyl tune it on the dyno. cheers

after days worth of fixing dodgy repairs and misc problems i have concluded that i need a new carb, cause the weber on it is too buggered to be usefull. i found a huge vacuum leak, last owner used tape instead of hoseclamps on brake booster connections. yup got the head and exhaust manifold on, went good as like that for a while now it runs like a bag of shit. it so dam hard to find parts for old shit.

I just brought a chevette, ran fine for a day then started running rough as. have checked points, got new dist cap and rotor and cleaned and rebuilt carb- very quickly. engine bogs down hard at load, idles a little rough, and is basically undrivable- unless the choke is on a tiny bit, then it runs generally a hell of a lot better. im doing condenser tomorrow and the spark plugs are carboned up hard, but that could be cause of the carb cleaner that ive used heaps of. im still guessing carb issues, the car had no fuel filter so was full of crap. cars specs are as follows: 1256 ported and shaved head, runs on 98 otherwise pings, weber 28/36dcd carb. lite fliwheel hd clutch and otherwise standard. jope u guys can help me, im a small motor mech but im out of ideas, dont really want to be paying 60 bux an hour to get it fixed. cheers todd