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Posts posted by Sambo
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Sorry if I'm telling you how to suck eggs, but definitely don't try and drain the oil out of the sump. Cleaning oil out of the bilge isn't fun. You want an oil extractor pump.
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Small update. There's been lots of life stuff between the last post and now, but not much car stuff. Got married two months after that post, then broke up 3 months after that. Now I'm 2 weeks out from moving to the UK nd have been slaving away on finishing and clearing out my house.
Last weekend I got the box back in the car after taking it out at the start of 2022 to unblock the fuel return line. This weekend, I started it (running like a bag of dicks on 3 or 4 year old fuel) and drove it onto a trailer. Drove it up to Whangarei with a mate, took his RX7 out of his mum's garage and slotted my car in. Then we brought his car back down to Auckland. Oh, I also locked the doors while it was on the trailer and left the keys in Auckland, Dad drove them up to me in Wellsford. Whoops.
The rust is now at the point that I'd never consider buying it in this state. Should be fun when I get back.
Potato spec video courtesy of Dad.
See ya circa 2025.
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6 hours ago, Bling said:
Yeah, I didn't even know mine had an ecu haha. I can't imagine the ECU is really doing anything for the solenoid, on the Nissan it'll just be a way of switching the 12V signal.
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Looking good! My favourite E7 shape.
I just fixed a similar carb issue on my D21, the idle shut off/anti-dieseling solenoid wasn't working. It wasn't working because the ECU fuse had blown, but apparently it's not uncommon for them to fail. Assuming yours has one and it runs off the key like a Nissan, you can test it by having someone turn the key from ACC to ON and see if you can hear the carb clicking. You can remove the plunger that turns off the idle fuel circuit as a temp fix, but it'll run on even worse.
Mine was running on a bit, stalling at idle, backfired heaps on deceleration, but ran fine once it had some throttle.
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On 15/05/2022 at 17:24, Beaver said:
Oh and @Sambo are you the z24 man? I recall you've got a couple. What timing should I be running? It's been pinging/predetonating a bit lately under heavy load.
I'm running mine at around 10-12* and it runs pretty happily on 91. It'll ping a little bit if I give it full jandal at low RPM, but otherwise fine.
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For anyone curious Charlie came back with:
$200+gst for pinstripe only
$350+gst for pinstripe and clear coat before and after
I was warned!
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Cheers guys, if Charlie doesn't pan out it'll probably just get varnished without the black stripe.
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I've been sanding down an old wooden wheel from a swish MX5 much like this
The finish was so damaged that I decided to take the whole wheel back to bare timber. Now I've decided that I want to replace the black stripe, which is actually a layer of plastic between coats of varnish. I'm thinking that someone who can paint a pinstripe on would be the best bet, but old shaky hands Sam is not the man for the job.
Any ideas?
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Thanks team, that's the info I needed.
The clutch that's in it is a new standard item, so I might just run that with the lighter flywheel for now.
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I don't mind buying a new friction plate, if required.
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What are some things I should be looking at before throwing this in my car? I've got no basis for comparison to look at the condition/wear on the friction plate or pressure plate. Would it also be an idea to get a workshop to check for runout or something on the flywheel, or is that a small risk?
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Can anyone ID the engine in this go-kart? A lady on a local FB group was asking for some help sorting out why it wasn't running very well, so I thought I'd go and have a poke around. I'm not really a bike guy, but I imagine it's just some shit in the carb or something..
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Maybe it's just me being 105kg, but I would never, ever sit on a car. Never mind putting shoes on a car after standing in a gravel carpark.
I mean, it does have seats in it.
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Cool, that's good to know. I wasn't sure if there was actually a difference between fwd/rwd, bigport/smallport etc.
I've also read a few snippets from 10 year old forum posts etc that 7m alternators will fit with a few more amps, but I really want something concrete that I can buy and sort the problem this week.
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Oooh, that would be great! I'll pm you.
Still after any advice.
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Hi Team,
I just went to fit an aftermarket alternator pulley to the alternator that's on the smallport in my AE85. The shaft on the alternator is a fair bit larger than the hole available in the pulley, and I'm guessing that it's had some other alternator put in. The shaft diameter on the alt is roughly 16.8mm, the factory style pulley I have is ~14.8mm. The alt I have has slotted into the factory AE86 brackets, but may be slightly larger diameter overall, as the top fouls on the top water neck. Interestingly/annoyingly, the pulley set I was sold second hand as an AE86 set (I have less faith in this than Flos.ie) fitted this alt, but with a different outer diameter.
Does anyone know what other alternators are likely to fit in? Looking to expand the search to try and find something second hand and/or quickly. I'd prefer a factory type solution for part finding in the future. Fucking over this, and it's preventing me solving another problem.
I'm reluctant to try making the hole in the pulley bigger, I don't want to make it off centre or on the piss on a part doing thousands of RPMs.
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Aloha gentlemen, if one were to blow down a 1/4" fuel return line, how much resistance ought one expect to encounter?
I've just dropped the gearbox out of my car to swap over the "semi blocked" fuel return line in the car, then I went to test the spare and found it completely blocked. I put some compressed air down the one in the car again and it seems to have improved, but I'm hesitant to put the box back in unless I'm sure it'll work.
Edit: Follow up question, is it feasible to bend ali bundy tube by running it under the car, or does it really need to be bent up then installed?
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I don't think so. He was a boatbuilder who started doing his own designs.
Architect to superyacht builder isn't the most ridiculous switch I guess, but still wow!
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Tasman 20 was designed by Alan Wright, who designed my old boat also. You'll see his name attached to an extraordinary number of NZ yachts. Mostly they go by other names (Tasman, Variant, Lotus, Tracker etc), unlike a lot of other NZ designed boats.
Very cool that your boat was built with the guys who developed the Nolex design too. That's another Kiwi classic. Apparently Nolexs have been used to circumnavigate.
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Stoked to see an update on this! Bilge keelers may not be the fastest boats but clever sailing can still make them competitive, plus you'll always get the best anchorage for the party after the race.
My old yacht wasn't a bilge keeler, but it was always satisfying chugging into an anchorage, past all the big boats, and anchoring right next to the sand.
The best way to learn to sail is by doing it. You've got the type of mind that will figure out how to trim the sail nicely all on your own by seeing where it's flapping or wrinkling, then looking at the ropes you have available to change the shape of the sail. It's hard to describe to someone when the right moment is to release the sheets during a tack or a gybe, but it's easy to feel when you're doing it.
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What an enjoyable day, felt like being a teenager again with nothing to do all day except fuck around with cars. So nice.
Starting at the start, I bought a RWD waterpump pulley and got the engine all buttoned up. Ended up using the aftermarket alternator pulley, which will need replacing as the larger diameter will mean it isn't spinning as fast as it should. I put it it all together without the thermostat so that I can flush the cooling system easier, but the rear housing of the water pump is leaking like a sieve, so it'll need to come apart and be goo'd up.
So today I filled the cooling system half a dozen times while getting the car out of the carport, cleaning 3 or 4 years of crap off it, pulling the dash apart, putting it back together, and putting the car back in the carport. All while moving it multiple times so my neighbours could get in and out of the driveway. I wanted to do interior work out of the carport because it's dark down there, and I can barely open the doors. I also spent quite a long time bathing all the interior in armourall. The dash probably drank up 250mls of it and still looks dry as a buzzards crotch, anyone got any recommendations for rejuvenating products? To be fair, the dash is already cracked, and it isn't going to improve much, but I'd like to stop it cracking anywhere else.
Barn find spec dirt:
I sorted a bit of accumulated crap out of the inside so I could sit on both sides of the car, then stripped the lower dash, with some assistance. The goal was to fit all the missing bits of the fan system/ducting, including an AC delete tube. I didn't bother when I put the dash in, because racecar, and I also put gauges in the place of drivers vents. I took those out and refitted the vents. I also fitted an AE86 dash cluster that I've had sitting around for yonks. The oil temp gauge goes straight to hot though, which is a little annoying, but not the end of the world. I did notice that one wire into the dash cluster was broken out of the pin, maybe that's the culprit.
Once I got the dash back together it was time for a beer, so I tucked the car away. Next is sorting the cooling system leaks so that I can flush it and fit the new thermostat with some actual coolant.
I did also notice that a the surface rust in some parts of the car has really accelerated, which isn't all the surprising given that it lives above wet concrete for most of the year. It's going to need body work sooner than later, which sucks. I'd like to have more time to save up and do it really well , but it'll probably end up being a bit half assed. Oh well.
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Right, digging this thread up from wherever it got to.
I got under the car a while back and unclipped all the fuel lines, then realised that I was unlikely to be able to get the replacement return line in without dropping a fair bit of the driveline, and I really couldn't be arsed with it. Then I got really busy with painting the outside of my house, and that's where it's been for the last X number of months with the same puddle of mud underneath through winter. To be fair, I probably should drop the gearbox and fit the fancy flywheel and clutch that I've had for about 5 years, but for the meantime I think I'm going to run another return line and just get the car moving.
I wriggled back under the car and connected the fuel lines back up, then suffered a few self inflicted setbacks (the stereo is now dead, can anyone guess what I did?), and got the car started a couple of evenings ago. There are no pictures of any of this because being under the car in the mud is fucking miserable.
I also recently realised that it's been sitting with plain tap water in the cooling system for a loong time. So now that it's running I'm replacing the cambelt, waterpump, and thermostat, then I'm giving the cooling system a big flush. After that I can get the car out of it's hole and clean it inside and out as it's full of spiders etc, and seeing it clean is always good for motivation. I stripped the front of the engine yesterday, then found that someone had put a 12pt bolt on the cambelt tensioner for some reason, so I had to stop. I found a random 10mm 12pt socket in the back of my hand tools drawer this morning, so I'll continue today (if it isn't raining) and hopefully get it all buttoned up.
In semi related news, I bought a full set of what I thought were standard RWD 4age pulleys as the alternator pulley doesn't match the others and it's chewing the belt out. What turned up is actually lightweight aluminium numbers. They also have very different diameters to the standard pulleys, which I'm not 100% sure about. The offsets also seem to be slightly different, so I'm not sure how they'll go with the standard powersteering pump pulley later on. I haven't worked it all out, but I think the net effect is to slightly overspeed the waterpump and the alternator. I have no idea if this is desirable on a street car or not?
Other things to do in no particular order:
- Fit stereo and retro box speakers
- Fit new, lower rate, rear springs (and buy some spring bushes)
- collect 3d printed parcel tray clips from @Berjjj
- Buy some big clips for the silicone joiner holding the airfilter on
- Organise some kind of radiator overflow
- Sort out what I'm doing for tyres. The 14x7's currently have 185/55R15s on them, but on the LVVTA chart this isn't acceptable for cert.
- Figure out the popup headlight circuit (they're doing the thing where they constantly go up and down)
- Fit powersteering
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keltiks' 1980s Ross 35
in Other Projects
Posted
Okay, sorry.