plasticdash

just rub some cheap shampoo on inside of rear window for fog free-ness.

Loctite 222 is low strength suitable for small bolts so will be ok to take apart, I wouldn't go putting 272 or 277 on them ! thats for sure.

Looks good. You may have sealing problems when you pump the tyre back up now?

should be good to re-inflate. only took the centre out, didnt seperate the two rim halves. (time will tell thou)

probably not a bad idea to use loctite on the nuts either

yes, will apply lashings of loctite 222 when i torque them up

thanks !

just been cleaning the rims and pulled the centre out to autosol the shiny bits - they had at least 5 years of brake dust on the inside

one down, three to go

I have searched this forum and the internet for the torque settings for bolts that hold 3 piece wheels together and have got a wide variety of answers.

12.9 cap screws in 8mm x 1.25 pitch and 13mm nut on back.

qty 20 fasteners per wheel - simmons v4's

I am reasonably sure (75%) the body bolt hole locations on manual and auto starions for the gearbox x-member is different.

:spelling edit

Step 1 :Blow up and print out below image.

Step 2 : apply to oil stained area

couldnt use a allen key head then just drill through for lockwiring steez?

engineering shops arent guna have fuck all with that size head in a hex head

No room to do up a allen key. Its tight as a tiger ! haha (cant even get a ring spanner in there, have to use open end)

Thankyou MACKAZ, u have PM

yes its for manifold to turbo, flange has been milled on manifold, so is flat. currently running 2 studs, one bolt and one rangi nut and bolt combo. ( would like to go to bolts so i can lockwire the suckers. ) not ideal to have stud/nut in one of the holes either

Someone has suggested a very light smear of maniseal instead of the gasket would be good, but I am always one for gaskets where possible.

and no threads on manifold flange. but threaded on turbo flange.

I know a cunt who works at steelmaster in Napier give them a call and ask for Steven and say Rusty said you might be able to help

cheers rusty, ive been to steelmaster up here . and been through there racks. nothing that suited. (will give steve a call tomorrow thou)

Hi, I know not quite Tech worthy, but i am on the lookout for some new 10mm bolts that fit the following description

10mm x 1.25mm pitch

25mm long "shaft"

hex head (normal)

at least 8.8 Grade

and the must!

must take 14mm spanner at biggest

and preferred with build in washer of no more than 17mm dia

I live in whangarei , and no one stocks anything suitable

(and they do exist. I have one. only need 8 minimum)

I have found that ARP do a suitable part (663-1002), but would rather not have to wait/pay for stuff to come from states

anyone that can help ? (im sick of blowing turbo manifold gaskets, and who ever made this exhaust manifold should be shot. although its built well. the design aspect is not so flash)

Good Stuff on getting it running !!!

or 6G72 with mivec heads.

or ida's on the essex.

Ok. Car specs as follows. As I brought it pretty much as it is (apart from rebuild susp, and the usual consumables like tyres, wiring, hoses, and a good tidy up and re plumbing of bov and wastegate) - and had it converted to Powersteer

Engine - 4G63 starion bottom and block. 4g63 twin cam head - cams stock. inlet manifold cut and shut, early evo intercooler, Larger unknown Precision Turbo on tube manifold of rather poor design IMO , exh wastegate (plumbed in) , Urethane engine mounts , quiet , rather restrictive (and legal) 2.5" exhaust. old as autronic ecu. bosch 944 pump, larger inj, FPR , Bov (with shut the F**k up filter on it)

Drive train - std big LSD diff with 3.545 ratio and 5 speed box. 3 puck with low clamping force (the 8 puck one it had when I got it, (that I ruined) was much better)

Susp - Adj height/ damper Coil overs made from std susp with Koni Inserts , urethane bushes and larger front swaybar

Interior - worn in a few spots, has USA "TSI" spec seats/door trims .

Wheels - Simmons in need of a real good split and cleanup

Brakes - std 4 stud type rears (changed from 5 stud factory), fronts early evo callipers and discs on std 4 std hubs (can be made to fit !) . stop ok when warm- but pads are rooted ATM .need replacement

Sounds - Brethren spec !

To Do (wishlist)

I have bellhousing to fit s5 rx7 gearbox to motor. (mitsi box shitty at high rpm shifts)

I have 4.625 ratio cogs (for diff that is due for freshen up anyway) - would rather a 4.222 thou

New brake pads - carbotech xp6's?

short shifter for current mitsi box

new intercooler (similar size)

free up exhaust whilst maintaining legal and not homo 4g63 sound

Fix/Tidy nightmare wiring.

Plumb in Bov.

Whilst looking through car paperwork I found a dyno sheet from when i had the car tuned last.

After much fighting with the scanner on my printer I got this

Please feel free to pick holes in the stupid power delivery and fall off.

Yet again the gasket between the manifold and turbo has failed on the starion . this is gasket number 4 to fail. It is a factory mitsi multilayer metal gasket

I am sick of this problem, surfaces are flat (have been planed after gasket 2 failed) ,bolts are lockwired and lock tabbed down to stop movement (and had not come undone). but there was movement between turbo and manifold where either bolts had stretched or gasket had got thinner due to failure

I will replace bolts with new ones, and also add some shake-proof lock washers

Failed gasket

Picture of gasket and what holds it on (due to manifold design space is an issue for bolts/nuts)

Picture of gasket on manifold (gasket hole is matched same size as turbo.) should probably match up the manifold too

also the manifold to head had come loose on the top bolts only (one stud broke under no force)

maybe i am hanging too much weight off the head ?

So some more to fix!

Discuss viewtopic.php?f=18&t=18595

About time I posted this eyesore up.

1986 EX Starion with twincam conversion, It's always finding something expensive to break.

Usual fruity bits with koni coilovers (wound way up into the sky so i can get up my driveway)

have owned it for over 3 years now.

will post some better newer pics soon.

ok im not thinking of doing this but i saw it today and thought quite loudly in my head 'WTF!'

hilman avenger with cutties up front, shocks not captive so there was a long bolt welded to the top spring cap running through the bottom cap/plate/base/whateverwhocares and bolted captive,so when the shock compresses the bolt slides though the lower cap and the nut stops it from rasing past its captive point.

seems a bit iffy squiffy to me

Thats fantastic.

Back in the day we used seatbelt webbing from one end of the shock to the other to limit shock expansion and keep spring captive.

I have used low kings/konis and also "quite" compressed standards/re-oiled standard shocks.

the kings and konis were better, and handled well, understeered at limit thou. not very much lower than std. really could have done with a larger rear swaybar.

compresseds were low, but really did muck up the rear geometry , chewed out tyres on the insides as there wasnt enough adjustment to dial out the toe/camber.

Would anyone know the differences between rx7 S4 and S5 gearboxes? (and if the turbo/non turbo ones are different) , so far the info i have found is that the S5 gearbox has more strengthening ribbing?

I have a bellhousing to fit one of the above into the starion, and am looking at purchasing a box, would like to get the strongest one possible.

run window washers to engine/rear wheels

and fill said window washer bottle up with diesel.

also some sort of lock/lsd rear for the 2 wheel action.

Are you dead sure its the injectors ?

check the idle solenoid by listening to it and getting someone to flip the ign on. (mine did a similar same thing on my l20et before the idle soleniod failed)

also clean the battery terminals of all things (mates one made all kinds of clicky noises then didnt start and thats all it was)

L-series are the best

could the top strut bearings be siezed/rubbing ?

Did it sit square before the 2" blocks were put in ? (thats if its a new mod). did it not drop 2" on one side or did it drop 4" on the other . as above check the shock on the high side to see if its siezed/bound (and also check to see if the shocks are the same too . ive seen 2 different brand shocks in the back of a car that was lowered, and one bottomed out way before the other) -

dont forget to give it a settling "bounce" or too. and check the rear leaf bushes move. and that the diff/driveshaft isnt hitting on any part of the floorpan - and that there are no broken springs.

mixed sized turbos could work. but having driven twin turbo legacy's im not convinced (ud think the factory could get it right). and i thought a rpm based supercharger assisted low end would be better than exhaust gas spooling a smaller turbo. (maybe its just me - i dislike lag) .