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Checked all fuses.

Can you enlighten me on how to test relays?

There are two plugs going to the pump, each with 2 wires.

Got no fuel pumping out.

Got no spark.

Yeh I tried the other night to get the hose off but i was a bit typsy and it was dark. I will follow your advice bro.

Cheers.

Ok, I will go over the fuses the again.

Remove the fuel pump and connect to a 12V source and see if she goes or not.

Nothing had been messed with, apaprently was low on gas.

I know where the cam sensor on a de is but not on a e.

I'll check for spark in half hour and update.

Hey,

Need to bleed L300 brakes.

The Manual mentions to bleed the right rear brake, the front brakes then the 2 nipples on the G Sensing Proportioning Valve (G.S.P.V.), it mentions there is 2 bleed nipples on the GSPV valve and to blee highest to lowest on the valve. While in fact there is only 1 nipple on my GSPV valve.

So should I still continue with the way it instructs to bleed.

Rear Right-Front Left, Front Right-GSPV valve?

I know it's a weird question, I know on a car to start with brake furthest away then to closest to master cylinder but i've never dealt with one of these GSPV valves before.

Hi All,

My old mans Laurel (C34 with RB20E) isn't starting.

I havn't checked for spark yet as didn't have my tools with me yesterday, Check all fuses and appear ok.

I can't quite recall if its possible to hear the fuel pumps in these laurels prime for a few seconds before startup, but I can't hear a thing so I was thinking it may be the pump or relay (if there is a fuel pump relay).

I will check for spark after work, but if its got spark where should I look after that?

I will indeed do what johnnyfive suggested, I need to be assured i'm not fucking it up

I knew I shouldve taken a photo, I can't figure out how the handbrake string fits on to the arm.

I've searched google and can't find hardly any decent pics as to what i need to see.

How the Fuck does this spring connect? Has anybody got a pic? I really don't want to have to pull the drum off the other side to check.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/41/sam0059n.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/215/sam0060d.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/34/sam0061w.jpg/

I've tried multiple combinations, even the gf tried. The shit gregorys manual doesn't show jack shit!

I got the drum off on Sunday, it was a cunt, I thought I had realeased pressure but still had a prick of a time; shoes didnt retract and didn't want to let go of the drum. I had to use a puller.

Broke 2 pins and clips (which I have new ones to replace).

It turns out I may be a muppet when working with leading/trailing drum brake setups on mitsi l300 vans.

I am confused about a couple of things.

The adjuster needs to be backed off before drum removal correct? But these brakes are auto adjusting so when do they have a adjusted that can be tampered with from the slot in the backing plate?

Does the handbrake not adjust these automatically? I always thought there was just the single hand brake adjustment directly at the handbrake, but now I'm guessing there is also one where the cable goes to the splitter, should I have been letting that adjuster off and not the one at the hand brake?

Oh I also purchased a new wheel cylinder ($23 from ripco) as the rubber boots were shagged.

Why would you take a sohc rb for a tune? lol

Fit a resistor pack. Google is there is info all over the place more than likely.

Ok thanks for the heads up, I will dismantle tomorrow and clean with brakecleen then adjust.

I had the drum off a few months ago and the shoes had a lot of meat left on them, I do recall now that the cylinder was a bit gammy. The van has been sitting since then apart from being driven for its WoF check

I can get another wheel cylinder for $23 at the local brake shop, think I may get that and give it a shot. What do you guys reckon?

P.S. I adjusted the handbrake before the WoF at the actually handbrake but not underneath the vehicle...

Morning guys,

My van failed WoF for a sticky right rear brake (and a few other things but they have been sorted).

The wheel can be turned by hand but its difficult to turn and when driven I can hear a squeak.

I'm not very clued up on drum brakes. Should I overhaul the rear brakes? or Replace the wheel cylinder? or Is there an adjustment I can make?

Thanks in advance, am hoping to get this sorted tomorrow so would like to try and get any parts required today.

Vacuum advance on distributor possibly? Or ignition timing out?

CRC gasket stripper, will bubble away and eat at the gasket. Then scrap off with scraper.

I was getting 450-550km from my L20ets.

Each to their own.

If you need a hand I'll come down

Oh, does that l20et come with ecu and engine loom?

shizzl where abouts are you located?

Prone to melting anything...lets just say on one of my l20et motors, i was playing with a evo down the motor way. Made a cock up and shifted down a gear, popped wastegate hose off as it wasnt secure and the old l20et free boosted. Spit head gasket out between head at block as the boost gauge reached around 30psi.

Took a gamble and just replaced head gasket without checking for cracks or sraightness, with an hour I was up and boosting again with no problems at all.

Not sure about cert, someone will know though.

Yes very good motor, plus bolt on a RB20DET turbo and larger intercooler with a bit more boost and it will kick even more ass

Dude... don't get my started. Now that I have money and experience with cars. I wish I owned it

This guy is a fool http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 383432.htm bet $10000000 its the coil or afm

...

L20ET!!!!

how would it go pushing a tranny van?? and where would i find one of them? ....hmmm

:

It would haul ass, trust me. Absolutely haul ass.

I used to beat RB20DETs in mine.

Here is one http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 176067.htm

I'm actually a bit concerned about that auction. Because I've owned a few R30s. That is my old engine out of one of them...what concerns me is I swapped my 2nd R30 to a guy in Chch...they 2 days later it got stolen from him and taht is the same motor. I can tell by how the pop off valve is bunged with that particular bung, the blue leads and the BOV. But who knows. That person could have bought it and had no idea etc. it was about 4 years ago.

But those motors kick ass. $450 with a gearbox is rather good.