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Posts posted by Jeffs_Emporium
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Have spent the morning stripping the hatch with tergostrip to see if there's anything else hiding before sending off to panelbeater. 3 spots of rust where the window rubber holds water in and just the shit load of dents on the bottom 3rd. All the rest looks alright.
Will ask for wiper and squirter delete while it's being worked on.
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The fuel pump has rubber mounts to body. Braided line is touching body on the loop off it but not clipped to anything. Best to rubber clip mount it to body?
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Since changing to a braided rear high pressure fuel pump I'm getting horrendous vibrations through out the car, the fuel pump sounds like a 747 and changes pitch a lot . So much so that I bought a new fuel pump. Is this common if it's touching the body?
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Lastly the slave fitted
Located an old brake hose with correct fittings to get me from the hard line to slave. Had an issue with the threads in the bellhousing being drilled on slightly different angles which I have overcome by drilling one hole on the slave to 10mm instead of the 8mm it was.
With the slave on drivers side under my ass I was able to one man bleed
Only think I will need to look at is a way to fit the soft to hardline connection with a solid mount to body.
Decided to hook up the starter and try do a compression test.
Recieved 100, 150, 150, 100.
This engine has been sitting for God knows how long but has evidence of receiving an entire pull down and clean up. Are there any preventative measures I should be taking before trying to start it for real?
I'm just waiting for a 3ohm lucas coil that's specd for the hyperpak to show up before giving it a go
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3 photos of the hydraulic clutch conversion because it's that big of a procedure with 8 or so line clips to run through. I ran a peice of string through all the clips then measured it, rolled it out of my tubing then took to ebc for them to flare.
You'll see the different reservoir swapped in with the 3rd line fitting for clutch. I did have a nice round on tube coming off the master cylinder but it was running higher than reservoir outlet and making it hard to bleed.
nicely clipped up in the allocated spare tube holder
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Injectors are back in with new o-rings from MSEL and primed up without leaking.
Sprayed the glovebox panel with vht wrinkle this afternoon.
I need to find some space for all the wiring, each of the plug ins have like 1m excess loom attached....
@Barnz.NZ put me onto a single 14" ssr tomcat listed on Yahoo Auctions Japan which I managed to win this morning. Will be using it with the other I have to make a pair for the mark II with hopes of finding two more eventually
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Cheers boys MSEL sorted me out yesterday so hopefully that's sorts it out.
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Glad I grabbed spares of the injectors as two were seized completely. Recieved the lot back with 6 tested and new caps fitted. I cut the offset keyway off with a craft knife put them in the fuel rail and decided to prime the fuel system to make sure there were no leaks. After about 20 seconds it starts pissing out two injector seals. When I installed them they didn't feel as tight as usual in the rail. Took them back out and the rb20det injectors are 7.14mm where the o-ring sits and the 1gge are 7.84mm in the same place so my 1gge injector seals I have from new gasket kit aren't suitable.
Decided to have a browse under the cam covers while I'm here to check for wear and it still looks as clean as when I assembled it almost 2 years later.
Also using this time to improve some of the hoses and vacuum lines and fit the old vacuum tank for the heater (heater goes cold when on boost currently)
Have been looking into changing to a 1ggt/ze spark plug R5671A-7 .7mm gap from the current BCPR5EIX-11 with 1.1mm gap
I also finally found an article on installing the hks supercharger kit which is in the 1987 hks power catalogue
I was always confused about how they offered an intercooler version since the charger is mounted directly on intake manifold. This manual shows that version has two pipes coming off the intake manifold which will go to intercooler, who knows how the air would actually circulate through intercooler??
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I have tried that and my gearbox mount was thanking me but it pushes the end of carbs back to the sheet metal between engine bay and battery (reason why I had 10mm taken off the carb manifold)
I think I will push on as if it does fit, complete wiring, get it started up and make sure everything else is fine and then with a bit of luck a floor shifter van will be at pickapart or something otherwise drop the lid off somewhere that can reproduce it with the space I need to certification spec.
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I could but it's the seatbelt mount and seat mount landing on it that makes me afraid regarding certification
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Floor shifter engine cover looks like it has more clearance but probably going to have seatbelt in same place so have the same issue?
I almost bought another entire liteace that was floorshift just to try this but came to my senses...
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Carb manifold got the slim down from Burr engineering
Fitted this, using 3 studs and 4 bolts. Then have to wind in the top studs for carbs swing them up from underneath and wind the bottom studs in once in place.
I've given myself about 20mm clearance to the side of engine bay and the fuel pump fits in nicely next to the rear carb
But the front carb is hitting the seat
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I'm setting up my linkages in my liteace after g52 swap and they feel shithouse no matter where I adjust them to. I guess oil in box and clutch hooked up might change things
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Having some roll centre adjusters machined for my gx61. Do they need a central locating ring like this
Or are these fine
Is there a maximum thickness Im allowed also.
Here is the front suspension design with the steering arm sandwhiched between stub axle and ball joint
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In the attempts to try get this running better I've tracked down some 270cc rb20det injectors.
These have the same high impedance as my gen 2 1ggeu 185cc injectors and will be getting sent away today to get serviced and flow tested prior to installation.
The only thing that isn't plug and play is the offset location of the top keyway doesn't match the centred toyota plugs. I'll be filing them off
The idea is that I'll be able to do fine tuning with the graphic control computer.
Also looking to decrease the supercharger pulley size eventually an have been told that rb26dett and gtir sr20det injectors are the high impedance same design and 440cc so there's room for further improvement.
I've also tracked down this hks electronic governor control that can advance/retard spark based on rpm and map sensor which I'm looking forward to playing around with.
As you might tell I've developed a bit of an obsession with this hks gear over the past year. So much so that I've decided to start a small online business via Instagram @jeffsemporium sharing what I've learnt from countless old forums and magazine articles and reconnecting these parts with the correct vehicles since 90% are advertised incorrectly. I'll also be selling other japanese old tech from the 80s, magazines and the odd fashion accessory
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One of the rear speakers stopped working a while back, gutted because they had a really decent sound to them.
Time to address this burnt to shit parcel tray. Carpet is supposed to be a burgundy colour
Where is the best place to acquire a peice of auto carpet for this and what adhesives would you use? I've tried the ados f2 and the spray and had zero luck with my van hoodlining and ended up resorting to using construction adhesive
Jesse's Toyota Mark ii Grande gx61
in Projects and Build Ups
Posted
I have been plagued by a fuel issue for the past month since reassembly. The fuel pump was making a horrible noise that got progressively louder and the car would only fire up for 1 or 2 seconds then splutter out. I replaced the fuel pump, same problem.
Painfully purchased a Tomei fpr and Guage and all sorts of fittings to allow me to fit the gauge in place of the cold start injector hose while retaining the factory fuel reg for now to fully identify what the issue is
Putting the gauge on and priming pump the fuel pressure took about 30 seconds to hit 38psi and then cranking it drops down to zero.
Next I took the high pressure hose off the pump and into a Jerry can, key ON and it hoons out like everything is fine.
Reconnect that and try the return hose off factory regulator, about a teaspoon after 30 seconds.
Reconnect that and try the high pressure hose going into damper on other end of fuel rail, hoons out everywhere.
Have a look at the damper in my hand and it has a copper washer jammed in the wrong side blocking the feed from the banjo.
So about $500 later and many afternoons wondering what the fuck is going on and calling my dad and other mates for ideas I've finally found the issue and can get on with enjoying the last 3 weeks of my current warrant of fitness