NicT

Bring back variable length intake runners.

 

Build variable length exhaust runners?

Still live in Farmcove? I just got my V8 crown back after hiatus for 5 years.

Special thanks to Liam who fabricated the diff and the Exhaust, was also there to talk shit an drink beers while I manhandled shit around in the car.

All my old photos got deleted from hosting, so rehosted them on Imgur,

 

 

My old man in the background, we built this together, all started with me having a carina shell and going back to uni so I gave it to him, he decided to put the turbo v8 in it and the rest is history.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

See you oldschoolers Saturday 11th December

Did you replace the fuel filter?

Do you often run the car on empty?

Check the wiring and plugs to the pump. Does the wiring run under the back seat?

 

 

Just purchased car as a project so I know none of these things other than the wiring does not run under the back seat.

 

 

Sugar in the fuel tank is something widely known to do to enemies - that kills the pumps/carbs/EFI/motor 

Is that a possibility?

 

Also water getting into the tank can wreak havoc on items. Cup or two of methylated spirits mixed with fuel will absorb the water and help clear that out

 

Im thinking it was salt water left in the gas that was already in the tank as I have noticed that components have lightly corroded in the tank even though the are submerged in fuel. Particularly the outside of the new fuel pump.

 

 

 

It's looking like its water, but I thought id throw this question out there as someone else might have a different experience.

 

Cheers guys.

Alright, this one perplexes even myself.

 

So i bought that Cefiro that was on here a few months back that wasnt running.

 

Dug around sorted some things out and, it kept popping fuel pump fuses.

 

So i figure pumps toast.

 

Get new gas, throw 15 litres at it, put a new pump in, run pump for a while to purge out the fuel lines, new gas comes out.

Hook it up, fires up no problem.

 

Park her up for another sunny day and go back to being a dad for a couple of weeks.

 

Get a spare moment one sunday and go to fire it up, and it will not start, check everything. Pull fuel line off turn car on, no gas comes out. Figure it must be fuse. Look at sure enough.

 

Replace fuse and it blows straight away. So rip out NEW pump and put it on the bench, give it some power and wont turn over. So i decide to dissect this one.

 

Apply power and its just jammed/wont turn, just starts smoking the contacts. However I can freely turn the motor over by hand.

 

 

The gas in the tank now smells kinda funny too, I think there might be something in the fuel that is vanishing the pumps.

Anyone had this before? Anything else I could be overlooking?

Want to get to the bottom of it before I pay another $100 and lunch another pump.

 

Thinking, syphen tank, run some ethanol through it, put new gas in with new pump.

 

Thanks,

I was looking at this and was like "ah sweet another carina"

 

Then I was like "duh, i know that car..."

Needs more lock

Blah Blah, useless with updates.

 

Heres some photos

 

 

 

ZW3d is $1400 a seat, and i have a spare seat if someone wants to rent it as I have Solidworks now.

 

Its pretty bloody good for what it is/cost does everything solidworks can and more. However as I have so many clients who use solidworks I myself have to use solidworks.

Notchback all day erry day.

My wife wouldnt even get in the car with me if I owned one of those. I scared her in my old AE getting a little sideways in the wet. She didnt like it that the car was sliding and I was laughing.

 

Wicked ute. Does this get unstuck in the rain..? No towbar?

 

Old boy is super keen on one of these but in sedan format.

Sperating the moulds wasnt too bad, just drove a wedge in there.

 

I dont think the part turned out too bad, it is strong and ridged and will do its intended purpose, but my comments were remarks for any future attempts at carboning.

 

You have sold me on the idea of looking into a vacuum pump. Might start looking around, ACP composites in the US sell them real cheap.

OK so the mould should be sanded smooth then sealed with a durable paint/epoxy then sanded, then polished with finer and finer grades of paper and polish till its like glass.

Then million coats of wax and buffing.

Then.. Ditch the underside mould and get some mylar and a vacuum pump (like a fridge pump).

Apply a layer of resin/ gelcoat with a roller or spray gun and let it go green before you lay on the cloth.

Do the cloth and resin thing then place in a mylar bag that you made earlier.. Seal up any holes with duct tape and tape in a hose to ur vac pump.

Have a vac tank catch can thing inline so any excess resin is caught before it goes into the pump.

Sorry if telling you to suck eggs but vac bagging is really the only way you will get a light and strong professionally looking piece.

 

Have you layed carbon before?

 

I want to Vacuum bag, but $$$$$$$$$

I will endevour with what i am doing, I have seen respectable results from high class manufacturers in NZ doing what I am doing.

Well, my seat didnt turn out as well as I hoped. 

Few things i learnt:

- Mould surface finish is everything, my parts are Matt in finish cause my mould surface was crap (even though i spent 2 hours sanding, the resin i chose to coat my MDF in wasnt ideal)
- Take my time with the resin, I went a bit crazy and rushed it on cause I thought it would cure faster than it did.

-  MDF moulds dont last very long, the epoxy pretty much destroyed my mould surface when I pulled my part out of it.

- Wax the shit out of everything with mould release. I put on 10 coats and it was still a prick to get out.

 

Photos from my potatoe

 

What do you do with all your clearing rubbish? Bonfire?

I always see these the day after they happen

Page 9, What a disgrace.

 

Doesnt mean we haven't been working on the beast.

 

Odd looking lower control arm

 

 

Chop chop weld weld

 

 

Finished product

 

 

 

Pretty happy with how they turned out considering its been a LOOOONNNNNG time since i tackled a fabrication project. I offloaded the diff on someone else to do in exchange to wire up their crap. 

Was satisfying to make it, take my time and make it all nice.

 

While I was doing that my old man was setting up his new brakes.

 

 

The idea of the project was for us to go 50/50 in everything, but I just cant keep up with his spending...

 

 

Hilux in and fitted, S15 rear rotors and calipers, with Surfab twin caliper/hilux adaptors. Idea is to run 4 rear calipers, 2 for hydro handbrake and 2 for normal handbrake and normal rear brakes.

 

 

Honda radiator for water-to-air intercooler and 16 row oil cooler

 

 

Better look at the front strut.

 

Todays bash around the garage inspired me a bit more to get motivated on the car. But its hard to find time between working 2 jobs and running a company. But ive put aside a day a week now to at least try and nut something out.

 

Engine is also wired up.

 

 

To do:

Dash

Water plumbing

Oil Pumbing
Drive shaft

Wheels

New brake lines

Adjustable Pan hard rod

 

Recently completed

Front suspension assembly

Brakes

Wiring

Diff

Diff head

Fuel

Alternator mount

Put a hand crank out the front, custom hole through radiator

Join the 86 owners club on facebook and 86fighters, advertise there. It will be sold

All options are painful. Resplining the existing axles will be expensive. Welding 86 axle splines to your existing axles is a serious no no (but I had welded axles in my hilux diff and I cracked one)

 

Do 86 axles go into that diff housing?

Awesome, curious to know where you got your glass from?

I hear its a dark dark slippery slide once you start making things out of carbon....

 

 

Quite keen on one of these tbh

http://www.shapeoko.com

 

I was very keen on one of these machines, but the desire to machine aluminium was too strong and I sought out Craftsman.

 

You definitely get what you pay for. I essentially produced 2 $2000 molds on a $3600 machine, I have made flanges for friends, mounts for speaker pods, and am lining up another mold for those Carbon trumpets.

 

The fact you have a Z travel of 50mm with the shapeoko, this means you only have a 'true travel' of 25mm (25mm long tool in the chuck and 25mm work piece, this would mean the collet would also be touching the top of the job)

The Craftsman has a advertised Z travel of 100mm, but can actually do 140mm if you remove the spoil board and mount work directly to the machine board. I am looking at replacing the bottom board with a piece of 8mm steel with threaded holes in it giving me an additional 10mm travel, which would give me 150mm, with a 75mm tool this gives me a ~75mm working depth. Which is awesome for a home machine, I know professional machines that are $30k that dont have this Z travel. However a 75mm long 6mm end mill has other problems.

 

Really comes down to what you plan to do with it. I understand that it is a sizable cost/investment that could be something that just sits around and doesn't get used, so the shapeoko is ideal for that in the sense you dont loose out to badly and can be just a toy you play with now and again.

 

Also note i spent an easy 7 - 8 months looking at hobby CNCs before I bought one. Humming and harring, I even made designs of a CNC I was going to make myself (went overboard and wanted the table made from granite).