NicT

ball joint tapers are the same.

used to run TT132 LCA in TE71 with KE70 steering arms and struts

and ae86 stuff goes into ke70's ,te71's ??

I thought e70 junk runs different spacing on the bottom of the struts hence. Mate had this issue with his AE71 when trying to fit AE86 LCA's to his car.

As for brakes id lean towards either celica-supra/z10 soarer venteds (need 14's), 4 pot Nissan conversion (you will need 15's), or make your own setup using Wilwoods (i know they make a tiny set of 4 pots for this application) that are for stock cars to clear 13's.

RB in a rona, that will be interesting.

Bolt spacing on the z10/xt141 struts have the same bolts for nissan 4 pot calipers.

I had photos of some but lost them. U use VW van discs and you dont need any caliper spacers.

All the GD peeps will have itchy fingers, i know i do.

If you have a TT141, i know Z10 Soarer, Celica-Supra xx fit. Not sure on cressida models.

Reo has some Z10 soarer struts on trademe atm for $60

Why do you want to swap them? Make your own coilovers?

I have factory Airbag suspension in one of my crowns and it has a tear.

Anyone know of any way or place i can get the bag replaced or repaired?

Yea man, they be certable easy, 8mm plate all tig welded up. will sit on factory rubber mount.

Welcome to come see. $120

Aww shit that seems pretty tasty.

Ill drop you a text and let u know.

Can make a set of engine mounts as engine is now coming out

How much? Recon they will be certable? Mine are iffy

Ahh no chance of a Ford manual for a 1951 Tudor/victoria/b-owt weapon/sedan?

All i cared about was toyotas so i didnt pay any attention to anything else sorry.

But they had assloads of ford and holden books of course.

Id take photos but im to lazy and its not worth the effort.

I have the sump about 10mm above the bottom of my crossmember and they back of it just curving up above it.

Mine doesnt. I proberly mounted the engine to low haha.

Interfears by only a bit. maybe 5mm? But causes the motor to sit back. Besides i was going to run a relocator anyways so it gets rid of some mess.

Anywhere from 40 cents to $20. Nothing to extravogant.

Its pretty much down the bottom just past the road that runs behind dressmart that pops out onto the main street.

Let me know what you think of my shiznit.

Also dont hesitat to contact me if you are interested in any of my designs, i have no problems modifying and personalising them for your applications.

Rear shock setup

The Orange/Bronze pieces are the bits i designed. They replace to top spring cap and turn the shock so it runs upside down. This means the Adjustable section clears everything, and the strut casing goes up inside your chassi and mounts to the strut towers.

This design is based on S13 NPC (same as BC's) coilovers and use the exsisting rear parts that mount to the bottom of the hub carriers. (having heaps of mind blanks tonight of part names)

This part replaces the 1uz oil filter assemble that hangs off the block. In its place will be this with 2 FPR fittings for oil lines that will go to an oil relocator. This aprt still uses the factory oil seal and is made from Aluminium.

The second part is to replace this 1uz part to clear the sway bar im my MZ10.

DISCUSS SHIZ! viewtopic.php?f=18&t=18078

I know i dont post very much on oldschool but i defiantely read it alot. My favourite part is reading the project threads so i thought id post up my shit just for everyone elses interest.

Bought this last september :s

Was going to fit it to an RX60 Cressida but it turns out the steering box doesnt want to have a bar of it...

My other lady

Should have kept this and done a 1JZ conversion instead, was a bloody tidy shell. Minimal rust.

Engine pulled down the same day we picked it up

Megasquirt

Being a toyota man it seems blasphamis to fit these to my car but they are so sooo cheap

What replaced the RX60, busted MZ10

MS Progress

Old wheels that wouldnt fit my brake setup so had to sell

Engine in

I didnt even bother cleaning the engine bay which i should have. Car is intended to be a beater. I dont intend to ever sell it, and if it ever leaves my hand its on the back of a tow truck to go to the scrappy.

Lovely Lady again

Sexy Ass

Brake Setup and coilovers

Cheap as chips S13 coilovers.

Also done:

- Machined 4140 Chromoly Sleeves for My front struts, need to be threaded and welded to my stub axles

- Nolethaned the whole front of my car (D bushes, caster arms, LCA's, swaybar linkages)

- Made a gearbox mount from narm

- Rebuilt the motor (cambelt, tensioners, waterpump, idlers) All done now.

- Designed a oil relcator to replace my oil filter mount (will upload photos later tonight)

- Designed a way to mount my rear adjustables without needing to cut anything (maybe able to do a solution to fit any spring/strut style coilover into the rear of a dirty old toyota will also upload photos later tonight)

- Finished drivers side headers, almost finished passanger side ones (4 - 2 - 1)

Side note.

I decided 1 project wasnt enough and i just wasnt poor enough i have bought a 1GGTE for the crown.

ECU, loom, block, manifolds.

Deicded to pull it down to have a look and it wasnt pretty. So it pretty much needs a complete overhaul. New rings, HG, mains, big ends, valve stem seals, cam belt.

Was looking around the hard to find bookstore today with my gf and discovered the car section had old workshop manuals for all sorts of old cars.

Everything from Citreons, rovers, triumphs, to datsuns, old coronas, even had general car repair manuals for all fords from 1934 - 1948!!

First thing i thought of when i saw them all was "people on oldschool.co.nz need to know about this wealth of car manuals" there was a wall poster saying they have over 1000 in stock and you should just ask.

Place is on onehunga main road.

surging could point towards throttle position sensor or MAP, unplug these and see if it changes anything.

Any vacuum leaks? High smooth idle would point to auxilliary triggers pulling it up, surging adds an unknown to the mix.

yea I got a piece of alloy spun up, bolted it to the exhaust cam gear. cut the dizzy right down and replaced the brass bush with a bearing. Then laser cut some plates that locate the dizzy in front of the cam gear.

I see what your doing now going further and mounting the guts of the dizzy inside your plates that sit essentially in the cam gear correct? nice

Nah even simpler then that man. Ill show photos when its done and all will become clear.

Di d you have any problems with the dizzy running clockwise instead of anticlockwise in its new position? the CAS part of it not get upset?

Got a pic? on the 20v the lower portion of the shaft is supported by a oiled bush when i did my ones we turned out the lower part of the dizzy housing an put in a bearing. You think the bearing in the top of the dizzy is enough? or the spigout in the cam gear is enough to support it? Anyway keen on pics, there was definitely a small market for the 20v setup i got pms from all over the world with mine. But only made 4-5 as I was at uni.

No pictures yet.

Did you relocate the whole dizzy to the front of the engine? Mine is essentially attaching a plastic cap onto a cam gear. Weight difference would be the same as going to JUN steel adjustable cam gears.

Is this to move the dizzy from the rear of the head to the front of the engine and run it off the pulleys? Juwt with being unfamilier with those engines I can't really see whats going on. Also, thought they used CAS anyway, is this an earlier gen one or do they all use dizzy's of some nature?

They all use dizzies. Not sure about the Gen 4's in caldinas but i imagine they are the same.

yea so are you running it directly off the exhaust pulley? cutting the dizzy down and fitting a bearing to the lower portion of the shaft?

I cant find any pics of the ones i used to make for 20v's I have the solidworks drawings somewhere

No bearing, just a spigot on the cam gear and the pointer directly attaching to the spigot. Same principle as a 1uz dizzy. Toyota made an approved, nic stolen and adapted for 3s.

All up the cost of the kits are absolutely marginal compared to the 20v ones ive seen for sale in america ($500 USD). I imagine this would be in the ballpark of $150 NZ each.

Will have a finished protoype by the end of next week

Laser cutting will begin Monday, should have the face plate ready tuesday and i will machine appropriate parts on the lathe in free time during the week.

Will be doing a 20V one after this has been completed. Once we have a working prototype i should be able to have a turn around of 1 - 2 weeks per kit at quite a minimal cost.

Let me know what you think and if there is anything you can see that will need improving or something you will see that will not work. Dizzy pointer and cap isnt included in drawing neither is locking nuts for dizzy cap.

All critisism welcome.

Hey dude,

Is it hard work turreting the rear on these cars?

Im keen to turret my MZ10 as i have the same suspension that im transplanting. But the rears arnt even close to fitting.

Was tossing up this idea or running a spacer to space the top of the struts down so the spring clears the outside of the body that houses the struts (stupid little tapered cavity)

V12 Merlin '55 Chev

as for me i'd love to roll about knowing i hada built in fridge in the back seat...

but with fender mirrors. and full curtains/tobacco smell etc

I roll in a white one of these as a daily. Fat and slow, but u can fit a lexus v8 in the back seat, gearbox in the boot, and deep dished wheels in the passanger seat and still look pimpin!