eskynut
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Posts posted by eskynut
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About the rycos...
The rubber diaphragm... you said it ended up in the head. How? If it came loost it would just get pushed into the cartridge with all the other crap. For that to get through you'd need it to be blocked, old and to come loose (probably from perisihing with heat/age) and then get pushed past a wide open bypass valve at the end.
Fred.
It was the anti-drain back valve (looks like a diaphram) that failed. It was still soft and hadn't gone hard.
The oil goes into the filter direct from the oil pump through the middle of the filter and out through the smaller holes. The anti-drain back valve is supposed to stop, or at the very least restrict, the oil filter draining of oil when the engine is switched off enabling quicker oil pressure at startup.
So the piece of the anti-drain back valve had got pushed up through the oil gallery to the head where it got stuck in a port that turned at right angles as it went into the front cam cap blocking the oil feed to the cams and lash adjusters. The piece was all rolled up in a tube form and was about 10mm x 25mm in size.
I got the head back yesterday. Cylinder Head Specialists managed to hone the cam tunnels and polish the cams enough. They very close to max but are still within specs so ended up not being too bad after all.
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The parent company of Citreon and Peugot (PSA) is trying to buy the Honda F1 seat.
If they do that they are to pull out of WRC.
That will leave M-Sport to battle it out themselves.
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It was the anti-drain back valve that failed not the filtration on his particular filter. The anti-drain back valve looks like a big rubber ring (you can see it through the small round holes around the filter). It somehow got torn or broke up and bits of it blocked off an oil gallery to the head. The oil pressure was enough to force it up through the oil gallery and it only got jammed by the cam cap that covers both cams at the front of the motor.
Ryco cut the filter up and matched up the bits we found with what was left in the filter. They've agreed to pay to fix (on the ph), but we're still waiting for the actual OK to go ahead and spend their money.
most gen filters are either fram and or donaldsonmost filter suppliers or gen filters do offer a garrentee on there filters.
I highly doubt Mr Toyota has his filters made by an American (more likely to be a Mexican-Fram & Donaldson) outfit. Everything is done "in house". There is a reason Toyota is the biggest auto manufacturer in the world and why American motor industry is going down the gurgler.
The guarentee - it's called consequential damage, and no not all offer this. Most only offer to replace the bad part, never mind about the carnage its caused.
And your right about people using incorrect lubricants etc causing probs.
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Generally, only genuine products have a consequential damage clause. That is if their part fails and causes other damage they cover it all.
Very rarely, if at all, do aftermarket brands do this.
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Got a 07 petrol Hiace van in at work which has had a Repco (Ryco) oil filter fitted.
It came to us with a bad engine knock in the top end. Took off the rocker cover and found all the hydraulic lash adjusters had all gone soft. Took out the cams and found that they had started to pick up from lack of oil and found the cause.
Some of the oil drain back valve in the filter had torn away and been pushed up to the head and blocked up an oil gallery that fed the cams etc.
Have stripped the engine down to investigate further and to see if any more filter bits got stuck anywhere else. Nothing else damaged apart from head, cams, VVT-I. Over 8g in parts alone.
The owner of the vehicle took the bad oil filter back to the Repco branch they got it from and they sent it to Ryco to see why it failed. Got a phone call from the company that owns Ryco to let us know they will pay to fix the damage.
Good to see that they are willing to remedy the situation.
If only a genuine filter had been used.......
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11 Waller Tce
Vehicle Certification Services Ltd
ph 365 4777
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I've got a KP60 rack and KE70 steering arms in my KE25.
The lower arms have to get lengthened about 40mm though.
There are a few guys that have done this mod on the club-k forum (http://www.club-k.co.nz) and also on the toymods forum (http://www.toymods.net)
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the 4.0 is the better of the later motors. Came out in the series 2 discos.
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found these
http://www.webcon.co.uk/weber/40dcoe.htm
http://www.webcon.co.uk/weber/45dcoe.htm
hope they're some help
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Cheers guys. Thats what I was after.
Yeah always interested in "sharp deals"
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Hey
Yeah mines not going on the road. Scrutineers are just worried about safety and how it works not how it looks at the end of the day - As long as it does the job its supposed to do then no hassles
I based the construction of my handbrake on this one
Mike
Cheers for that.
Yup very similar to what I'm doing.
So long as it looks sweet and operates correctly I shud be ok.
Cheers for your help guys
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I got the hand book and it says nothing about my concerns ie it has to be pro made. It just states that if it has a hyd h/b it requires an authority card. And to get that it has to go through scrutineering by a msnz authorised scrutineer. The guy I spoke to told me it had to be pro made but I can't find anything to back up what he says. You have copied stuff from msnz and you are correct but it still doesn't specify if the hyd h/b is to be pro made.
I also thought that if properly made and it works well there should be no problem.
I have been searching the web for designs I could use,and as drift-monkey was interested in a diy setup I thought he might like to see the pictures.
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This guy has built his own hyd h/b.
http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1 ... ake_setup/
this is another made up unit
http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/p ... p?lid=4381
this another set up I found. Similar to what I'm making
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I got a 5/8" m/c to suit an external resivour. It has one inlet and one outlet fitting. Cheap as from Repco. $20 if I remember correctly.
I'm now trying to make up a bracket to mount the m/c. Then modify the std h/b lever with a pivot for the push rod and then make up a lock rod to be able to lock the h/b on for parking.
I'll try to add a pic soon as I figure out how to. Computers not my thing.
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from the motor sport manuel
When an owner of a competition vehicle wishes to use it on public roads, it is alegal requirement to have an Authority Card issued by MotorSport NZ, if any ofthe following items are fitted / modified: Competition safety harness / Roll protection that extends forward of the front seating positions and/ormodifications that effect the interior impact rule / Removal of an airbag SRS system / Braided hydraulicbrake lines / Hydraulic handbrake / Plastic glazing.Application is made by completing form T002 available from club secretaries, the MotorSportadministration office or from the MotorSport website http://www.motorsport.org.nz.Note 1: The applicant must hold a current MotorSport licence and the vehicle must have a competition logbook. Note 2: Braided brake lines and Plastic glazing may be covered by a LVV Certification
COMPETITION BRAKING SYSTEMHydraulic handbrakeCompliance with Schedule A« Does the vehicle comply with the basic requirements of the MotorSportsafety schedule? Note: It is no longer a requirement for the vehicle to beFIA Homologated.Design and construction« Is the hydraulic handbrake professionally constructed and securelymounted to the vehicle body?« Where the hand brake has its own fluid reservoir is it easy to check andtop up?Locking mechanism« Is the brake easy to apply and release?« Is the mechanism secure when in the applied position?Service brake unaffected« Is the service (foot) brake unaffected when the handbrake is released? Isthe operation of the rear service brakes unaffected?
Performance« Does the handbrake meet the minimum performance requirements? This ideally should checked using a brake-tester, however an application from 30 km/hr gives a good indication of the performance.« The handbrake shall also be tested to prove its ability to hold the vehicleon a reasonable slope. If a slope is not available then a 'drive away' testmay be used, i.e. attempt to drive off with the handbrake applied
mike your car is never gunna be used on public road so it dosent need a authrority card
the moment you wanna run on public roads closed or not you need a motorsport authority card and in that case its a different kettle of fish
Cost is not something you should give consideration when its your life on the line .
I havent heard of any regulations in regards to the hydrualic handbrake and how and who they are made by ?perhaps instead of waiting to hear something you should buy a motorsport manuel before you start building a racecar
that way your 1/3 the cost one dosent turn into 1/3 more cost when you have to bin it and get one that meets the requirements
v
It already is a built up rally car. I'm just doing a full rebuild and upgrading a few things while I'm at it.
All the stuff I'm doing to it is 'by the book'. But I'll need to renew my authority card when I've finished as it's about to run out from memory.
Just after thoughts from people how they've done things to hopefully make my job easier.
I'll just carry on then.
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I've been trying to find out the exact regs for it but only have found something in scrutineers check list that asks if it has been pro made. Can't find anything to say it has to be a pro made item. So dunno where the guy I was talking to got the idea.
I'll just make a real good job of it and will see what haps.
I'm going to check out a few cars to get some ideas about pivot/fulcrum points etc to get lever action correct.
I've seen 1 where the m/c was mounted on an angle to help with the action of the pushrod and the brake pipes mounted sideways (apparently helps when bleeding).
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Yeah I was starting to make my own but when I talked to the scrutineer about what i needed to do I was told I couldn't make 1 as it had to be a professionally made unit.
I suppose if it was made sweet it could pass as a pro model.
I'm wondering though if he is mistaken with FIA specs not clubman.
I may just keep on making mine and see what happens.
I'm using a 5/8" cylinder (no resivour type) with threaded in and out ports.
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I'm going to fit a hydraulic handbrake into my rally car and for it to pass scrutineering it has to be a professionally made unit.
Can anyone recommend a particular one to use?
I have seen 1 on t/m at one stage but it's no longer listed (or I can't find it).
Would prefer a horizontal set up.
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The idea behind idling fast at 3000rpm then normal idle for at least 3mins is to reset ecu if battery has been removed. If this not done it can make engine stall.
If it's running rough more than likely its done something else. It doesn't take much to damage a valve face.
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Check out thus guys esky. Powered by a turboed cbr1000rr engine.
He's also got a few vids on youtube.
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Cheers guys.
What started it all was I need to convert the clutch back to hydraulic (t50 orig hyd, but this has been cable operated) and to do this I really need to put in a pedal box as there is no room to fit m/c on the firewall. So to do this I may as well fit a complete setup and I may as well at the same time set it up with adjustable balance bar and hydraulic h/brake and bias valve. So I also thought I could, if it was simply a bolt-on thing, I could replace calipers and rotors.
I will prob just leave w/clyinders and calipers and just do pedal box for now.
There's a awesome dude here in chch, Les Hunter, who is helping me at the mo sort out pedal box and correct size m/c's. Just got to build a frame to mount pedal box under steering column and it'll be sweet.
Here's Les's website. He really knows his stuff!!!
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Use Wayne, he much better to deal with.
Don is ok if you got a mint as hot rod that he likes. Otherwise he'll screw you. And he hates jap cars that have been modded etc. He really hates boy racers - and guess who the cops use to do the young guys for all they can?...... Don
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OK chaps
I'm going to put a 3 m/c (2 for brakes, 1 for clutch) and adjustable balance bar pedal box set-up in my rally car and am wondering should I "upgrade" the front brakes at the same time? Or would they be OK to leave as is?
I've got KE70 struts and brakes in it at the mo. I've pulled the motor etc to repaint the engine bay and tidy car up - so while it's in pieces.......
Car is running a 4A-GE carbed and T50.
Ideas?
It pays to use genuine oil filters!!
in General Car Chat
Posted
You're right it would've been ok if the oil flow went the way you show.
But it doesn't on this motor hence ...... shit happened.
All that's been looked into. Cheers though.