coldturkey

ah yep i'll try that thanks. Is yours a Haynes manual then?

Is it a Lucas ACR alternator? The black cylinder could be a resistor, or perhaps a diode to stop current travelling back into the alternator, or possibly a capacitor to smooth out the output voltage. Measure the resistance both ways should tell you. Which connection to the alternator does it actually come from? http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Graphics/U ... S017B1.gif I wouldn't mess around too much with the internals of them, those alternators are rather cheap, u can get a 2nd hand one for like $40 or brand new one for under $200. Plus if its still original it may not have much life left in it anyway

I need the standard sizes and tolerences of piston bore, camshaft, crankshaft, valve guides, bearings etc to rebuild the engine, plus torque settings etc But it would really be good to have a manual in case i get stuck in some places

Hey, Im after a copy of an A15 Engine Manual (from a Nissan Vanette) if anyone has one? Web search turned up nothing. Cheers!

Minor update: It was sitting around for a few weeks and not driven, sold my other car planning to use this as a daily. Went to start it and ran on 3 for ages, after some suggestions changed plugs and it was right again (even though plugs didn't look bad really). Tested compression at same time and it was quite bad, and uneven between cylinders. After suggestions took it for italian tune up and then it was mint! Drove it up north over labour weekend 700+ kms, didnt miss a beat. Does tend to overheat a bit up hills/ in traffic. Plan to change thermostate and water pump and retrofit a bigger radiator to it (these are tiny). Also need new springs, mean sag on driver side. Need suggestions for springs - firmer with a bit of lowerage, anyone?

Guy today said compressing springs is illegal / who does it in hamilton? Edit: yea the dobi part number would be mint! Is this what you did?

Need new springs (also shocks, which are sorted) for viva. Have some sweet sag on one side. Want to get something 2" lower and a bit uprated. Went to 3 places today, 2 didn't even want to touch it. Suspension city is looking through some stuff which might fit, namely out of a Torana and is getting back to me, but will charge me an arm and a leg. ($450 plus) Shocks quoted at $340 for all 4 which I though was reasonable (hookups). So anyone have suggestions? Want 2 inch lowerage from factory, plus ideally slightly stiffer.

I thought you multiply the figure by 14.7 to get psi. 8.5 * 14.7 = 125psi

If it were a cracked ringland wouldn't I see a noticable compression difference in one of the cylinders? And rings/seals would show a lower than normal compression in all cylinders right? Only one was about 5psi different to the rest (125psi versus a max of 131psi)

Ok disconnected vaccum hose from booster and plugged it up. Left it running for 30 mins, still smokey as hell. Checked for signs of blowby. There is a bit of air blowing out of the breather tube, if I block it up then it starts to suck instead of blow. Then when I unblock it goes back to blowing air out again. It doesn't blow air much, but it is definately pushing air out. Does this sound normal? There really is a buttload of smoke if I rev it, its pretty bad. Its not real white and its not real blue, but there is definately a tinge of blue to it.

If you PM me your email address I can send you the service manual if you like.

It doesn't have to be even 1 tooth out to run bad, get a timing light on that puppy. When I had issues after putting a replacement sohc 4g63 in my l300 it was a combination of timing, idle set too low, and not enough/too much fuel. Start with the timing though, its either right or wrong, then mess around with fuel/idle till you are happy. Does it run worse/better if you rotate the dizzy?

Interesting. I thought using an additive lowered the octane slightly, hence using 95. I guess I'll try 91 and see if there are any differences in running/economy. Seems to be running mint now, dont really want to change anything. Although it seems to be sputtering when I back off the accelerator (while in gear)

thanks for that, but im not gonna lie... cant be assed reading all that, maybe if I get bored at work! Drove it about 700kms on highway last weekend and it didn't miss a beat! Think it just needed a good out blow out. Starts first pop every time now and I'm betting that the compression has sorted itself out too. Im getting about 8.5l / 100km, is that about right for a vauxhall 1256cc? Running it on 95 with Morleys additive. I would have thought it would be a little bit more economical

Ran it for about an hour today, water definately did not go down. Also backed the fuel right off, but all it does is run really rough. Oil also didn't appear to move at all on the dipstip (still exactly on H level) Couldn't spot brake booster, being a van it may not have one? Disconnected air intake hose and the oil breather, no change. Couldn't spot anything else that would be making its way into engine. On idle its not really smokey at all, when you put your foot down you get a big cloud. Looking at it today it looked kinda more blue, which would be oil, but like I said, didn't seem to use oil today. I'll check it for blowby tommorrow, should just be able to tell if it comes out of the breather right? But wouldn't this have shown up on the compression test

eh? u think it could be sucking in brake fluid? Dunno, didn't take much notice tbh will have to check

Good thing I asked. Heh. I was planning to run some Engine Oil Flush through and change the oil/filter. Is the Engine Oil Flush also not a good idea? And then drive it north and back this weekend (~600km, if it makes it!)

Ive got a bottle of MotorUp Fuel Treament and one MotorUp Engine Treatment, maybe if i run them through it will help? Cant hurt right? (got a 2nd bottle of fuel treatment might try on my van )

Haven't really driven it much, but when I have it seems to do it all the time. Compression test was fine, so unlikely it is water. Not sure about oil, like I said haven't driven it much. It does have a WOF so might have to roll in it for a while. Maybe I can try run some fuel treatment through? It has a sweet 'sitting under a tree' paint job!

Picked up a Vannette for $200 with A15 engine, the guy reckoned it had a knock but it went away. The only problem I can see with it is it blows a lot of white smoke, when you give it some juice and a little bit when its just idling. Compression tested fine on all cylinders (125-133 psi). Is the white smoke possibly due to overfueling? May also explain the knock? its done pretty high Kms (>260,000km). I thought too much fuel generally meant black smoke.

Good advice. Anyone in the tron thats keen for a cashy, im keen to help out and learn etc

lol, you honestly speak a language I dont understand What do you mean by "Give it some herbs then see what goes down"?

Never done valve clearances before, could be interesting. So you reckon the clearances will be too small, and I should increase them? And, So I should be running a fuel additive?

Hmm maybe that is my issue, cause normally I pump the gas for a while. Well anyway, I changed all the plugs and at the same time did compression test. The plugs didn't look worn but most were pretty black, cyl 3 was black and wet. Once I changed cyl 3 plug it ran sweet as a nut on all 4. However, now my concern.... Compression test results: Cyl 1: 128psi Cyl 2: 103psi Cyl 3: 70psi Cyl 4: 99psi Uh oh.... maybe I just have some sweet blow by cause its been sitting dormant for a while? The car was pretty cold when I tested it, but I let the engine start and run for 2-3 secs for each cylinder I tested. What you guys reckon? Cyl 1 tested sweet, like factory, but is it feasible that the engine could wear so unevenly?

Aye, explain?