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ratt

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Posts posted by ratt

  1. Sorry for not updating boes.

    I won! :D After bashing away with hammers and getting nowhere (was using a 20 pound sledge and a 5 pound mallet)

    I borrowed this:

    photo0038.jpg

    30 seconds later the job was done :rolleyes:

    On another note, I just purchased these for nicks:

    113335286full.jpg

    Enkei 92's

    14" 5x114 Unsure of width or offset, will have more info when they arrive, at the price they were im not too concerned though. :lol:

    Matt

  2. Haha yea looks like one of my ex's too :rolleyes: my brother's coming over after work today so i'll get him to help, gonna shoot down the road and grab a decent drill bit for drilling hardened steel soon and try and take some of the tension off, hopefully that will do the trick :mrgreen:

  3. Have tried drilling, chewed through the drill bit and hardly made a mark, might try again with a carbide/diamond drill bit or something along those lines.

    I gave it some solid whacks, gave up for tonight though, should make some progress tommorow, all things going well.

  4. Yea i see the error of my ways now lol... I was going off advice from someone who apparentley knew what they were doing. :| Putting it in a vice would mean removing more parts, which I am trying to avoid as I dont want to open a can of worms

  5. I'm no mechanic so you'll have to pardon me if I get a few terms/part names wrong :)

    So I decided to change the upper ball joints on my crown as the grease boots were split and pissing out grease. The drivers side popped off easy, the passenger side, not so easy...

    The ball joint connects to the (control arm?) by means of a spindle and a crown nut. After much bashing with a ball joint fork and BFH had made no progress, so decided to cut the ball joint from its spindle.

    I am now left with a piece of metal stuck inside another piece of metal and no bloody clue how to get it out so i can replace the ball joints.

    Any suggestions?

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  6. After makita adjustables were installed.

    rattcress1be6.jpg

    rattcress3rc2.jpg

    With earthwurmjurms rx30

    DSCF0530.jpg

    Immaculate condition all round. Have possibly sussed some rather nice rims for it :twisted: Will get it tinted at some stage too. Engine is gonna stay stay the way it is for now, might change the exhaust for something a bit less restrictive though.

    Interior pics tommorow.

  7. They look great! I guess if what your doing work stick to it!

    Did u have any problems with the silver?? Like mottle, basecoat scratching etc.

    Generally, you get wax in basecoat, due to a poorly degreased substrate. It could be oil in the compressor, but I'd say its more than likely the environment. Any silicone particles on ur clothes or skin, or in the air, can cause wax.

    Guess thats why they invented buffs :wink:

    Thanks - as you know it is damned hard to tell a paint job from a photo so they prolly aren't that good to a professional in the cold light of day

    The wax holes only showed up in the last two or three clear coat applications - it couldn't have been the environment or else it would have shown up earlier. The olny thing we could thing of was the compressor getting too hot and oil bypassing the rings. I don't have extraction but the booth was warm and happy. I wondered if I was putting the clear on too wet?

    I changed the compressor oil for the next car and the same bloody thing happened. Spray bog, primer, base coats and several coat of clear all sweet as - then final coast of clear = dozens of wee craters.

    I haven't had much trouble with silver - but the Anglia only got a dusting of colour - thin paint = light weight race cars FTW :D

    Sounds like solvent pop. Try using a slower thinner :)

  8. They look great! I guess if what your doing work stick to it!

    Did u have any problems with the silver?? Like mottle, basecoat scratching etc.

    Generally, you get wax in basecoat, due to a poorly degreased substrate. It could be oil in the compressor, but I'd say its more than likely the environment. Any silicone particles on ur clothes or skin, or in the air, can cause wax.

    Guess thats why they invented buffs :wink:

  9. Try adjusting the volume control to suit, ie. less pressure, less fluid.

    Walcom sounds right, not the best, but by no means the worst. Some of the best painters i know use 40 dollar guns for clear.

    Another thing i would reccomend to ensure a long paint life, is to use the same brand base and clear. Most paint manufaturers design there products to work together. You run the risk of delamination/fade etc. over time.

    Got any pics of cars you've done?

    Chur!

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