Zealot

More importantly you've got the whole 0 gate current thing, meaning you can have one mosfet driving a much larger number of other mosfets. Fan-out, that's the word I was looking for.

That amp sounds pretty awesome

Given that you mentioned the words "gate", "collector" and "emitter" in one post I had assumed you did

It was more for V8Pete's benefit.

They're both pretty similar in behaviour though.

Did you build that amp yourself? looks pretty huge

BJT = bipolar junction transistor, MOSFET = metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor.

They're just different types of transistors.

Yea, I'd never considered that a multimeter could actually nuke a transistor - will have to be more cautious.

Oh and I also hadn't looked at the schematic for MS - strange, I would have assumed mosfets would be preferable to BJTs.

Actually... you're assuming they're BJTs... surely they'd be MOSFETs rather than BJTs, which means you'd need a pretty large voltage to damage the insulator under the gate...

Plus remember that some MOSFETs are depletion mode, not just enhancement... so basically it's meaningless unless you know what it actually is.

That's true. I still wouldn't have thought a DMM could fry one. The current would be tiny surely. It'd still be better to be safe than sorry however.

I wouldn't have thought a standard DMM could damage a transistor... most of them can handle up to 500mA fine, and I can't see a DMM putting out more than that.

But yes, depending which pins you connect, you could easily get 0 resistance. Remember there are two functions for transistors - either as an amplifier, or as a digital switch. Depending on how the IC is designed, you could have two pins connected in the power off state.

Probably not. 25years+ means your on the good side of OS.

All depends on what you're rocking.

One of the (growing) 205 gang I couldn't give a hoot if you don't consider it old enough. It's a better car (stabstab)

[btw it wasn't supposed to be a serious question, more whinging for the sake of it]

Bummer. Does that mean a 17 year old car doesn't pass the test ? D:

You gits. I'm manning a stand at speedshow. Might be able to get just the morning shift though.

And Pete, stop stealing my limelight

Woah.

You just recommended a VH41! Better not mention this to Mettler

BUMP for the 205 thread.

Kudos to V8Pete for his help pulling my 309 gti rear beam apart.

I've binned one of the needle "bearings" (I use the term loosely) I'll try to snap a pic of the other tomorrow.

There was basically nothing left but a pile of maroon dust on one side, and a half bearing shell which was literally nothing more than a semi circle. The other side at least had needles. Which were broken, angled wrongly, etc.

Hilarious stuff. I don't think it was actually doing anything at all.

Looking into either getting 306 trailing arms, or getting these ones fix0red on a lathe (grooved). Bearings aren't too hard to manufacture (got a friend who can get them done), just working out the most cost effective method.

Oh, and DEFINITELY going with phosphor bronze / oilite bearings. I want them to last more than 3 years.

Woah, that's awesome.

Get it kym!

Woah. E-rage.

MC = master cylinder. You use that abbreviation yourself.

You still have the 205 MC... so you could try both.

No need to change the rear brakes - they're the same in pretty much every pug - afaik the 306 gti6 rears are identical to the 205 rears? Or comparable at least.

I've read that running 306 gti6 callipers with the 306 mc and no compensators works well... not sure though. I think it was that way, I could be so incredibly wrong...

Hahah good call

I've never seen your skyrine in person (once driving past). Get it fixed and drive it, nub

Subframe is, but meh, can't be bothered til it's in pieces with the mi16.

front end?

swaybar link rod, bottom joint. they're gay

gotta jack it up jsut a bit, and get in there with a bar to find the play. Mines been like it forever. gets wofs coz they jack it up hard to find it, but by that stage it's got a bit of laod on it etc.

Yep. Front. It's pretty random though - happens when turning, but it's not at a specific point. Doesn't physically feel like it moves loads, just goes CLONK.

I concurr.

And yea. Pretty much fault = engine. Plus it's got a weird knock in the suspension randomly - it seems to re-settle, gotta have a look at that eventually.

Another one? Heh, where do you keep them all...

Any time.

Crap

Lol.

Thread up - happy?

[Pics + stuff to come when I get home, this is a placeholder, and I've forgotten stuff. And Cam's a whiner]

1900 cc

XU9JAZ

123hp @ the flywheel (apparently)

Faults

Engine

Leaks oil left right and centre.

Puffs a bit of smoke at idle (rooted valve stem seals)

Sounds like a tractor when cold - piston slap etc.

Interior

Huge amounts of dash-rattle.

Exterior

Stone chips all over the front, rip in the paint on the left side when it was broken into.

Stuff completed (Aka very little )

Remus Exhaust - rear + mid mufflers. Looks nice, sounds nice as under load (eg when flooring it up a hill). No louder than the stock one which would rattle at 60k in 4th gear (always knew when I could be ticketed), but it's a bit deeper at idle, and nicer at 5k+.

Nolathane front suspension bushes (already on)

New headlight (ripoff tbh... $150 for a piece of freaking glass?)

ICE

Pioneer 7750 headdeck

Omnifi MP3 storage

Rainbow 10" subwoofer with a box I made

Caliber 475+ amp

Focal 165A1 components, not installed yet as I haven't got front pods for them yet. Got all the wiring done though.

Work in Progress (ie stuff that is currently happening, but not finished)

Mi16 conversion on the way - current status - in bits at Lynn Rogers' place waiting for pistons

XU9J4 D6C - 160hp factory

Stage 1 Cam regrind from a guy in Aus - http://www.taylor-eng.com

Exhaust wedge (reangles the exhaust manifold to clear the firewall)

New Clutch

Using the standard Bosch Mi16 ecu from the DFW Mi - the detuned Aus one. Has slightly better fuel maps, and is a straight swap with my 205's loom

Engine work:

- Mild head job -> 3 angle valve seat grinds, removing casting lines etc (porting makes a minimal difference). NEW STEM SEALS.

- Balanced bottom bits.

- Bored liners from 83 -> 83.5mm

- 83.5mm Wiseco Forged Pistons, 11.1ish:1 CR (standard 10.4). Waiting on these from the US - about 3 weeks away.

Other stuff under the hood...

New set of silicon coolant hoses (yay, blue)

K&N Pod filter (standard airbox is about 50 million times too big to fit)

New Group N Engine mounts (sooo much stiffer than OE)

Suspension

New Group N top front suspension rubber things.

Group A rear beam mounts (will go on once the 309 beam is rebuilt)

Summary

Very little of the above is actually on the car yet. There's no point me trying to put new engine mounts or top rubber things in when we're going to have it all out and in pieces for the engine swap. I've bought all the bits listed above, just waiting to put it on.

I have (I think) everything I need for the transplant, just need the engine to be finished, reassembled, etc.

Currently waiting on pistons for the engine rebuild - liners were slightly too oval so boring the liners + larger pistons is the plan.

ETA on pistons - 3 weeks, then a week or two to complete the engine work, then reassembly!

To come (Stuff I'm intending to do, but haven't started yet)

Put Phase 2 taillights (plus reverse, rear foglight) on the car. Have the lights, need the time to swap them.

Get injectors cleaned

309 GTI rear beam + rebuild (bought a wreck with V8Pete)

Put silicon washers EVERYWHERE on the dash when the engine is out. Damn rattle.

Front speaker pods when I can afford these or get them made locally:

Bilstein Shocks, Eibach Springs.

Finefinefine. Bored @ work.

I've heard that 195/55s can rub, guess it depends on the specific tyres though. 195/50s will do for me - cheap