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nanarei

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Posts posted by nanarei

  1. So yeah got most things done on the 4AGE DX, over that for the mo.

    Got a new member of the family.

    4068528313a6530817283l.jpg

    Eventually going to be my tow car but for the mo I will just drive it.

    4068528313a6530817555l.jpg

    I have got a 1UZFE which I am going to either quad or twin turbo, manual of course R154, hilux rear want ~500 at the wheels but yeah this will be later on! have to finish the 3S DX for April.

    Looking for some TE71 disc handbrake cables as well... anyone?

  2. Ok so didnt get everything on the list done.

    Done so far:

    * Diff is in

    * Rear sway in

    * Drive shaft in

    * Gbox in, needed to make a xmember tho

    * TE71 pedal box in

    * Head is off.

    Discovered:

    * AE86 handbrake cables fit but the inner is too short? so hopefully TE71 ones will work.

    * My bellhousing is carina not 86

    * My starter motor doesnt fit new g/box the starter has a extra snout on the end so it wont go the whole way in bugger.

    * TE71 pedal box mounts for steering col are too far to the right.

    Need to sort:

    * Starter motor that fits

    * Handbrake cables that are long enough.

    * Make adapter to move steering col back into center

    * Speedo drive gear so speedo is accurate again.

    * Cleaning the sludge off my head damn its yuk.

    Hopefully one more weekend and it will be all go again.

  3. So big weekend ahead!

    Plans:

    * AE86 Rear end

    * Fit rear sway bar

    * LSD Diff head with ring now changed over to 4.778

    * New brake pads all round

    * TE71 pedal box

    * Carina T50 g/box

    * AE86 two d/shaft

    * New clutch / slave / master

    * TRD 0.8mm head gasket

    * New fluids in everything

    * New filters

    * Fix water leak (I suck at braising)

    * Reduce size of bypass hose on thermo hopefully make my heater warmer for those cold h->ak trips.

    * Fit gay pod filter

    * Modify ECU a bit more

    * New spark plugs / custom lead set.

    * Fix an oil leak

    * Paint some rusty bits.

    * Fix chain on my fully

    * Go riding at castle rock

    There is prolly more but yeah....

    So far I have:

    * Remove rear end

    * Removed K50 g/box

    * Removed head

    * Prep'd block

    4068528313a5997130429l.jpg

    Still two days to go should be enough time ;)

  4. Nearly got all the pieces of the puzzle.

    Finally got an LSD!

    4068528313a5939545825l.jpg

    Sorted a 4.778 diff so hopefully that will allow me to grab another gear around taupo.

    4068528313a5939546001l.jpg

    Here are the new ratios

    4068528313a5939697537l.jpg

    The res is bad on the image but yeah now 110km/h in 5th will be 4000rpm I wish close ratio gear sets where cheap...

    Another score was this

    4068528313a5939505920l.jpg

    A TOM's modified ECU for my 3S hopefully it is what I think it is as then I will have a fully programable ECU for the BEAMS and still have cam phasing control :)

    [/img]

    Cant wait to next weekend :)

  5. Might be your lucky day..

    I am upgrading diff and gearbox in my DX for track day.

    So will have a diff, g/box, drive shaft.

    Its a K50 box not the strongest but if your short on time will get you on track easy as it cable clutch.

    Hold on to your original K50 as internals can be swapped over if you manage to kill the box I havent yet but I wasnt really an animal to it.

    I am not sure if drive shaft will fit straight into your wag but someone will know.

    assuming you will be running standard diff for track day?

  6. flatdeck commer FTW!

    How original would that be!

    would probly need ballast over the rear axle/wheel stands ftw/l

    Haha one of my mates had a little suzuki van that did except i had a big guy in the front last time and nearly flipped it... I so want to get one of those vans and put some roll loops on the roof!

    Will post some pics of the commer van to -> flat deck next weekend ;)

  7. Sweet line up you've got there chief. For some reason unknown to me I dig that KE on the Altezza 17's... has a nice fuss-free bling look to it.

    Can't wait to see the outcome of the 3S racecar too... please keep us updated on that, should be a bloody rapid little car once completed.

    Thx, goin NA for a while. I suspect that extractors, quad throttle conversion, cams and higher CR should produce enough power to make a DX fun if not my friend Garrett can come to the rescue...

  8. some sweet cars there.

    hilux looks cool, have you checked out minitruckin.co.nz????? they'd be keen on seeing some info on it. loving the IRS too, you having much problems with it being too wide or is about right????

    daily 4aged ke70, are you using adapters to get the five stud wheels on there, are the cressida struts 4 or 5 stud???

    cheers

    Matt

    Wish I had more time aye, looking forward to finishing it one day. Yeah the track is too wide have to run FWD offset rims which aint the go so will prolly make some custom arms and bring the wheels in a bit. I have a Altezza IRS subframe that will probably fit better so might do that when the time comes. Have not checked out minitrucking as not really my scene pref to stay in the old toy scene

    I have lots of 5x114.3 rims so got some adpaters made up so I can run same rims on both my DX's Cressida are 4 stud but crown/hiace? hubs are 5 stud and fit.

    Yeah 4AGE is good for daily good on gas and has a little bit of power as well at least enough so i can pass people ;)

  9. Race car.

    Engine: SXE10 Altezza 3SGE BEAMS

    Flywheel: TOM's lightweight

    Gearbox: 6 spd Altezza

    Diff: Hilux G series ratio is around 5.8 i think too short.

    Front Brakes: ST205 Celica 315x32mm 4 pot alloy calipers

    Rear Brakes: JZA70 Supra

    Front susp: shortened cressida, crown hubs, adj plat, T3 camber, Bilstein inserts

    Rear susp: not sure yet may use coilovers

    No rubber in all susp all rod ends except bump stops of course

    Wilwood reverse mount pedal box with bias adjust

    DSC08384Small.jpg

    DSC08383Medium.jpg

    Engine is mounted as far back as I could go without gearbox shifter and sump mods.

    DSC08386.jpg

  10. My daily...

    Engine : AE101 4AGE Silvertop

    ECU: Std with my mods to covert to DLI

    Gearbox: K50 (Got heaps of T-50's just need to get around to it)

    Diff: Std whines alot, lookin for a 86 rear end, PM me if you know of any

    Front susp: Cressida struts shortened, adj plats, T3 camber plates, 8kg/mm a bit to stiff for street might goto 7's in the front

    Rear susp: Shorter shocks, ~5.5kg/mm i think..

    Front brakes: Cressida vented

    Rear brakes: std drums yuk

    Every bush replaced with Nolathane

    Rims: Altezza 17's

    Fuel: Surge in boot, bosch EFI pump, annoying ticker pickup pump. PM me if you have a LP fuel reg ~5psi

    Body: no mods except for lots of rust work, yes I have a 20v and a heater and no hole in firewall.

    KE70_4AGE20V_IGNITION.jpg

    KE70_4AGE20V_ENGBAY.jpg

    4068528313a5762231010l.jpg

    4068528313a5762231094l.jpg

    Plans:

    Replace rear end for AE86 LSD

    Get around to putting T-50 in

    Stereo / Relocate battery to boot

    Panel / Paint (Will spray same time as other shell)

    Garrett GT28xxR turbo / Custom ECU

  11. I have MS-2 with V3.0 main board running on a G200W still have not perfected the tuning yet.

    It runs I did do a couple of modifications to the V3.0 main board their h/w design skills are not the best ;) and I am using the optical dizzy.

    Tuning the fuel map is not that hard at all just need a Wb02 unit and it can interface into your MS-II. Then you can drive it covering all map/rpm zones while logging. I recommend a dyno tho it is kinda dodge to hit all zones and watch a laptop screen without hitting something ;) Then with the logged information you can run a tool that adjusts your fuel tables then repeat and eventually they get close.

    Ignition tuning is where you will get power from! and to do this right you need a dyno and a engine stethoscope or knock sensor to ensure you stay out of detonation.

    The dyno I have access to doesnt have a HP reading i.e. I can only use it to load up the engine and I have not fitted a knock sensor to the block yet next on the list to do ;)

    Having an accurate dyno is key if you want to get most out of engine as maximum power does not occur just before detonation you need to keep engine steady in one zone and adjust advance until maximum power is achieved then move to the next zone or maybe give the engine a break ;)

    I am no expert yet on the tuning side but am keen to learn more on it, if anyone else has any comments please post.

    Zep if you pm with what engine you are using (assuming G200W) and what you plan to do i.e. NA/forced, custom intake, cams, CR, extractors... we may be able to group buy parts ;)

    J

  12. 2.5 bar is around norm so thats ~36psi since you are forcing air into engine you will need to increase the pressure on the fuel rail for every psi of boost you force into engine.

    for example if fuel rail was fixed at 10psi and you ran 10psi boost you would have no fuel so this is why there is a vaccum/boost line going to fuel regulator so when you start boosting it increases the fuel rail pressure.

    most regulators are 1:1 so 60 psi on rail would sound correct if boost at ~24psi...

    rising rate regulators come into play if you want to get more fuel in without upgrading injectors.

    If you are running much higher amounts of boost than factory upgrading injectors is suggested and ensure pump can supply enough pressure to maintain rail pressure at maximum boost...

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