sry_not4sale

nice to see progress happening

Was at pick-a-part last week and only saw a couple of FE3s

Yeah it's the Cosmo. I wanna keep the factory color, but I have been told you can order factory colors relatively easy? Is that true?

I am just doing the front for now (guards, bonnet, bumpers, popups) and the engine bay. Using spare panels as i have never done this before and at least this way I won't fuck the original parts. The originals were resprayed by a friend of a friend and are starting to deteriorate.

Starting with this guard first as it is the one I am least worried about turfing if I fuck it up.

So I can use etch primer on the bare metal spots, and then go over it and the factory primer with that Autothane filler/primer?

Panels were originally red, have been resprayed black, so I have been taking them down to the red layer, or the primer below it.

Its not about what colour to take them down to but more to get them all even. Sometimes you have to go down further in certain areas and this will make a very slight step in the paint as you go through the layers. Unless bogged or feathered right out this will be seen through your top coat. Filler primmer can fix it to some extent.

Gaz

Firstly, thanks heaps for your reply!

The reason I am going back down to at least the red layer is I am presuming the factory paint and primer are going to be a shitload better base than some shitty respray...? Does that make sense?

Also, I am spraying it in the factory sperm white color

^ The guard just after starting to sand it.

So.... I am sanding down my spare front guards, want to paint them. Never done this shit before.

Panels were originally red, have been resprayed black, so I have been taking them down to the red layer, or the primer below it.

Have hit metal a few times and also will be needing to repair some rust, so I read that I should be using epoxy primer instead of etch primer cos it will be going over old primer/paint? Is that true?

I also read I should try keep the primer and paint the same brand so they don't react with each other....

So my question is, what is a good (but not hell expensive) brand of primer and paint. And should I be using epoxy primer?

Also, should I use high filler or bog for the low spots?'

Thanks in advance for helping the painting newb,

Aaron

So here are some pics of how the car looks atm...

nothing is happening as I am moving into a new, bigger shed shortly Started sanding down some spare guards as I have never done this before so didn't wanna fuck my best ones!! Gonna make a post in tech about how to do it properly cos I am worried I'm not

10c a plate, ouch.

Just approach them about carjam itself implementing the functionality you are talking about doing...

SPOTTED! hehe

Might want to talk to carjam first before you hammer their site!!! It is going to cost them heaps in bandwidth etc if you get a few people doing it.

Hey all,

Moving to Masterton to a little flat with no garage, so need a mean storage shed.

Double garage sized plus, 24/7 access, power, need to be allowed to work on my car in there. and SECURE

Lost license so pref in the north end, but south end is ok - can jump on the bike.

Could be a box of piss in it

Cheers,

Aaron

Started rubbing down my front guards and bumper Paint was damaged from the police fingerprinting them when my wheels were stolen, and some damage from storage. So I am putting some of my better second hand guards on, and a straighter bumper.

Done some more on the wiring, running the engine loom under the clutch master cylinder and the rest through the front guards.

Also, picked up a Bosch 070 external fuel pump cheap cheap Thanks MESDUP!

The S13 hubs fit up, but would need some slight mods to strut mounts and tie rods. No big drama, but makes me wonder what the advantage of doing this over the FC3S brake conversion is - or just getting custom hubs made up for the stub axles.

They all seem to require the same amount of work.

Anyways, no drama. First priority is to get the engine running!

Spent sunday afternoon dividing up and labeling the FE3 loom... fucking wiring

Also got a 5-stud, brake upgrade sorted ... if they fit! Trying them on tonight *prays*

I guess now the party the night before is gone it doesn't attract all the rapist/thieves anymore

http://nz.youtube.com/watch?v=eXIMDZmwmGA

Vid of the crash mate... try to ignore the horrid music and wiggers

Found out I must have dumped my FE subframes

Found mk3 supras have big 100mm liquid filled mounts, so think I am going to use some of them to space out the rotary engine mounts.

Yeah man still going! Current job is reassembling engine bay and dash around the new engine. And the mammoth job of splicing the two looms together

Found out I must have dumped my FE subframes

Found mk3 supras have big 100mm liquid filled mounts, so think I am going to go that way

Car looks sick mate, will have to get some pointers off you when I start putting the panels back on mine!!

Double checked this for you last night with a spare d/shaft and boxes... FE, MA, and S3/12at yokes are all the same

Fuck it's weird putting stuff BACK onto a cosmo lol normally I'm ripping stuff of one hahaha

Spent most of the time so far looking for stuff in boxes, found most of the engine bay stuff I need. I want to get all the electrical stuff bolted back in first so I can start making up the new loom (hidden in guards and engine wiring coming out under the clutch master and running under the intake manifold).

Got gearbox cross member on, pedal box back in. Took the drivers door off to make getting at stuff alot easier. Looks like the heater hoses and master cylinders are just going to clear the engine. Won't know for sure until I get the proper subframe in.

Next is to pull the loom out of the capella when the weather fines up. Going to pull the brake master out to see if it bolts up to the cosmo too.

its behind fe but they are the same yokes

Ok choice cheers guys

All pre-85 mazda RWD's should have the same yoke, including the rotors

Great link:

http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2735

So a s3 rx7 driveshaft yoke wouldn't do ... bugger there is one of them on trademe.

Ok sweet will keep an eye on the pick a part website.

Yeah it would, s4 rx7 came out in 85 S3 is pretty much the same as your box part from ratios, shifter and bell housing!

All pre-85 mazda RWD's should have the same yoke, including the rotors

Great link:

http://www.ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2735