Scrubb

I dunno lol, Repco is just a couple hundred metres down my road so whenever I need something I just go there...

I need 3 litres I think.. Anything else more affordable thats good? I mainly want to try and fix problems from this thread: http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=11127&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=gearbox+problems

damn that sounds expensive.. will look in manual and see how much I need first..

I've never heard of BNT, is there one in Hamilton? How expensive?

ok, so Redline. Thats the brand name and does that go for diff oil too? What exact stuff am I looking for and can I get from repco and supercheap? Have any idea of price?

Damn.. if only I read the forum yesterday..

Hey I am planning on changing the Engine oil, Gearbox oil and diff oil in my EX. Was wondering what gearbox and diff oils you guys recommended and price? I'm a total noob.. I wouldnt even know how to change it lol

Awesome, so how does an better pressure plate make it grip harder and feel better exactly? I just bought a new clutch kit (Its from a L300 or something but looks exactly the same as the spare I have), I guess this wont make it feel any better or will it? Anyone have any idea of cost and part numbers or any info at all?

Barina was cable too I'm pretty sure.. Also it was quite hard to press and was like a spring.. I'm pretty sure the clutch just got done before we bought the car. So I can get the EX to feel like this?

In my 1990 Holden Barina (which just got written off ) it had a mean clutch. When u let the clutch pedal out it was kinda sensative and you could feel it really grab on HARD. The EX clutch feels all soft and squishy and you cant really feel it grab on hard.. Can I get a clutch like was on the barina for my lancer? Was it some special one or is that how the ones on those cars are? Be awesome if I can get a clutch like that for the EX, thats what made that car good to drive.. Edit: Whoops! should be in Technical Section, can a mod please move it?

I'm confused.. says in the user manual that its designed to run on 91 octane.. the static timing should be set at 5 degrees which is factory and dosnt it advance by vacuum? So whats required to run it on the higher octane? I really want to try and get it running properly on the 91 fuel first though cuz it shouldnt have any problems as far as I understand because it didnt do it until a few days ago.. nothings changed except idle speed a little.. If I can I want to be able to get it running properly with the fuel its always been running on first so I think I'll wait untill I've put some fresh petrol and see what happens.. if its still the same I'll get timing and that sorta thing checked and then try the different fuel.. good idea or not ya think?

Running 91 is false economy dude, sure it's cheaper at the pump (by only a few cents) but the engine will run like complete shit compared to 95 or 98 with the ignition timed to take advantage of the higher octane fuel. 91 has a quick flash point, ie it ignites a whole heap easier and faster than 95 or 98 - something in the combustion chamber (whether it be carbon build up, too hot a spark plug, hot exhaust valve due to being stuck open or incorrectly set tappets) is igniting the fuel (other than the spark plug sparking itself). This in turn keeps the engine running, pumping the fuel pump, drawing fuel back into the cylinder (igniting on something other than a spark) - it's basically running like a Diesel engine! Adjusting the idle screw could have richened up the mixture (causing excess carbon build up), or you could have adjusted the fuel mixture screw instead of the idle screw (it happens). Do you know what the timing was set at? It should be around 5deg BTDC if running on 91, but if you run on 95 or 98 you should be able to adjust it higher. If the timing is too far retarded, the engine runs hotter than usual causing hot spots. If the tappets on the exhaust valve are too tight not allowing the exhaust valve to sit on the valve seat for long enough to dissapate heat, the hot exhaust valve could be igniting the fuel There are many factors which can cause running on, I suggest you run it on 95/98, get the ignition timing set properly, run NGK BP7ES plugs and check the valve clearances (should be 0.15mm inlet, 0.25mm exhaust when hot). Hope that helps Some very good points! The timing was set at 5 degrees. We recently got new spark plugs but it was late at night and nothing was open so just got whatever they had at mobil (probably the wrong ones) The Tapperts were adjusted when the engine got put back together and I was told after its done some driving to get them adjusted again which hasent been done yet.. Mike-e, Its got a factory aisan carb on it. Ive always wanted to run it on higher octane as my friend says he gets ALOT better milegae and performance out of it in his primera but I want to get everything actually working like it should before I change anything (if I can) Problem is.. I know nothing so I have to get other people to do things for me so usually not alot happens when it comes to fixing the car lol

I've always used 91 and never had any problems.. a bit confused why it would just start randomly after I increased the idle and then I put the idle down and it still does it.. weird.. We'll see hat happens when it gets some fresh fuel in it..

Had the head reconditioned and carb pulled apart and cleaned.. but it never did it for a long time after that and never did it before it had this work done. My uncle just put carb back and got the car 'going' so yea could be too lean? The timing was done when it got warrant but I havent checked it myself.. it didnt do it ONCE when the idle was really low..

just want it to work with no problems again lol

Yeah, the choke worked before it had work done on it lol When everything is broken it reliable and runs nice, as soon as you start fixing things EVERYTHING decides to pack a sad.. are all mitsi's like this or just mine? lol

more problems with this thing! You fix one thing and more problems come up! Now its over running when I turn it off and makes loud clunking kinda noises and shakes the whole car.. It started happening when I increased the idle speed.. was idling at around 500rpm and I put it up to aroun 900 or something and it was doing it so I thought it was because it was too high and put it down to about 700rpm (I think thats where it should be) Also the choke isnt working so when its cold it dies almost everytime I put it into neutral and runs like a rotary until it warms up.. sux in traffic! only just got the carb pulled apart and is meant to be 'fixed' but I'm not entirely sure its running how it should.. any ideas?

Just incase it becomes an option.. how much to recondition a gearbox on average? I'll check the oil when I can and see whats up.. I hope thats all it is! Probably much worse knowing my luck though.

Yea it used to be just that reverse was hard to get into sometimes and never made any noises or feel anything but now its worrying me..

In my Lancer EX its hard to put into second and reverse gear.. With Reverse I have to put it in first or third before I shift to reverse usually and if that dosnt work I have to let the clutch out and back in.. and it usually makes grind/knock noise as it goes into gear. With second its really difficult.. like ot dosnt want to go in smoothly.. it isnt so bad going from 1st to 2nd but from 3rd to 2nd its really bad.. It made a noise like I didnt have clutch all the way in when changing into second once (but I had clutch to the floor).. Its also not quiet when changing gear it makes a mechanical "click" sound. (probably not a problem) I noticed it when it was sitting for over 8 months waiting to get the head reconditioned and its gotten a little worse since then after I've been using it.. Someone said something about synchro's in the gearbox? could it also be low oil? I dont know if its ever been checked lol I have another gearbox sitting in the shed so I could nick parts from it if needed.. I think the one in the car is better cause it hasnt been sitting and collect god knows what.. oh its 5-speed btw Any ideas?

Someone I know had compared spare clutch bits I had sitting in the shed with the new kit and said they were the same but I wasnt there and I dont know anyway lol Will see soon if its the same or not

Car is going again.. smacked the carb with a spanner and it works now Someone told me the float could have been stuck.. Might put new fuel pump in anyway but I dunno cuz my bro paid for it.. I dont know about using an electric fuel pump.. sounds like too much effort if u ask me since its going again now on the old pump

yeah, its on the right side.. pretty easy to access it looks like. It says to use gasket sealer stuff.. thats that stuff which looks kinda like glue in a tube? Same stuff I used for rocker cover?

sweet, says that on the instructions I think. Putting marks on the distributor is a good idea.. did that when the head got done but the marks got rubbed off some how.. which sucked so I think I'll leave it on if I can, if not, make sure it gets marked!

gotta remove the distributor?.. that sucks.. I dont have a timing light.. guess I'll just take it in where it got WOF and get them to do it like I did last time..