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Scrubb

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Posts posted by Scrubb

  1. I think this has been known publicly for long enough. I've been in the UK for over a year now and I have known about this for MONTHS now.

    I think it's a good idea as I'm sure it will cause less accidents with foreign people driving in NZ, but with the old people... I can't wait to see it :lol:

    These rules have always been the case here in the UK and I haven't really noticed any difference driving here (but that's probably just because 99% of people don't follow any rules here anyway lol), but the key thing that I remember is "If you are changing onto THEIR road, then you should give way to them" or "If you are staying following your road then they give way to you".

    It's gonna be mad but I can't wait for the change.

  2. $350 to rebuild an Aisan (not to be confused with Asian) carb? I would just do it yourself, it's not hard to do - you just need a clean workspace, time and some patience. AN124NZ is probably the carb kit you will require which should have the gaskets, needle valve and seat, accelerator pump plunger and boot, and an assortment of o-rings and washers. Last time I bought the kit it was less than $40.

    You'll need a can or two of carb cleaner (the CRC clean-a-card stuff works great and is cheap) and something like an ice cream container to dip bits into. An air compressor with an air blower would be handy too.

    This is assuming your carb is indeed an Aisan one rather than a Mikuni Solex, but I'm pretty sure at that age Mitsi NZ had switched to Aisan by then.

    Is most likely Aisan as my 1980 model EX has an Aisan carb :)

  3. I've found about a 70's-80's Ford Escort for cheap. Aparantly it's not had many owners and low mileage!

    I usually have someone help me do the repairs on my car so I'm not too mechanically minded, so if I could get some insight on what to look for when I go look at this car it would be most appreciated.

    Where do they rust? Anything to look for engine/mechanical wise and anything I should look out for when I drive it?

    Also what range of engines do these things come with in the UK? I'm unsure of the exact model.

  4. Mine was pretty much complete, I had just painted and installed a new diff, ordered new shocks and I would have been happy.

    Then this happened:

    th_P1010187.jpg

    So now I've bought another body shell and am going to save up some money to fix it, but I'm off to the UK on the 3rd so I might be sending some money back and my bro might be a bit busy :P

  5. I was let to believe from overseas forums that the 6A1x shared most of the same bellhousing bolt position with the 4G9x series of motor, which also shares the same pattern with the 4G63 narrowblock, with the main difference being the opposite position of the starter motor which would require the starter motor holes and hump to be relocated. I was lead to believe this because someone in Jamaica with a 6A11 MX Lancer fitted a gearbox from a 4G92 MIVEC Lancer, of which that gearbox actually has two starter motor humps 180deg out from each other, presumably for one to suit the 4G92 and the other to suit the 6A1x. However after looking at a Sigma/L200 box and then looking at pics of my old 6A12 block I cannot see any of the holes lining up, perhaps only the two dowel pins and that's it.

    My brother has a FWD 4G92 with auto box in his lancer if I can help with anything (measurements etc?) to help clear up some questions let me know.. :)

  6. The build quality is as good as anything else for the money, drivelines are pretty good esp the diesels apparantly. It's a new car in 2010 its not a 1987 uno sting from before they started galvanising the bodies (most fiats after about 1990 got galvanised and don't rust worse than anything else of the time).

    I would look at how much more a grande punto is than the 500 as they have alot more room for more or less the same thing.

    People give fiats a fair bit of crap but really now they're pretty much the same as any of the regular jap stuff for the most part. apart from the styling its the same thing as a nissan micra or honda jazz suzuki swift or whatever and will be just as reliable.

    Yeah I thought this would probably be the case, especially in the UK. IMO though I hate how the front looks, but Top Gear seemed to give it a good review

  7. Just looking at peoples opinions on this car. My gf's sister is looking at buying one and she said its very comfortable inside and nice to drive, but I cant get over how the front looks like its been smashed into a brick wall! (but that is how the original looks)

    She's from the UK btw so they naturally have a funny taste in cars :lol:

  8. Just bought the body, it had a 1600 manual in it. Its deregistered and has a couple holes in the floor and bit of rust by the windscreen, but shouldnt be too much of an issue to fix since I'm gonna do panel/paint on it anyway. The front is mint if I decide just to cut the front off and use that, so I'm pretty happy with it.

    I think it should be pretty straight forward to get it through compliance check and get new numbers ect, just money will be the issue lol

  9. I dont think the loom and transmission will matter? The shells are the same? This is a bare shell with absolutely NOTHING in it, no lights, carpet, wires or anything lol. I'm not sure if I remember body panels even lol

    That build looks exactly what I'm going to do, thanks for the link. Will have a good read of that when I get home

  10. My mint Lancer EX got written off and has a bit of chassis damage at the front and my glovebox doesnt close properly anymore and I got told I could get it fixed, but no guarantees that it will be the same to drive and my glovebox might still be funny, so Ive decided I'm gonna get another shell and make it a long term project. Do full panel/paint and swap everything over and paint everything at the same time as I swap it over.

    Now what I would like to know is are there going to be any issues swapping my complete car to another shell and anything I should look out for before I start? I'm concerned about the interior plastic bits getting broken and things like hoodlining I might not be able to get correct. Also wiring troubles me..

    Looking forward to your input :)

  11. When running E10 in my brothers 98 Lancer we get much better mileage out of it on long trips than 98 or 95. It also stays in a higher gear longer when ya put your foot down which makes it more economic and it also stops the idle fluctuating. But in my EX I dont notice any difference what so ever.. 95 seems better.

    My dad also runs a high Ethonol mix in his motorcross bikes, says he gets much better performance out of it, but must be tuned to suit.

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