Scrubb

if you put it in gear with the handbrake off, and rock it back and forwards, how far does it move?

I'll check this tomorrow after work. Can it be in any gear?

can be too much lash in the diff pinion

 

 

What sort of carb does it have as well

It's got the standard Aisan 32/36 carb

I've noticed recently that my car would be jerky when changing from no throttle to accelerating in low gears (1-4) and also when coming off the throttle and decelerating. Also when in gears 1-3 when trying to drive at a constant speed on a flat surface it will jerk.

Another person on the internet had a good description:

 

".... excessive rubbery jerkiness every time you accelerate or decelerate. I mean the second you depress the accelerator pedal or the second I decelerate, it feels like you are being chain-pulled by another car. It's like a double or triple bounce.."

It never used to do this when I first got the car, but is getting increasingly worse the more I drive it and I want to nip it in the butt before it gets too bad!

Car is a 1981 Mitsubishi Lancer EX, 1600, 5-speed Manual and has done roughly 93,000 genuine Km's.

I have replaced the clutch making sure to machine the flywheel and replace release bearing. I also replaced the gearbox mount while I was at it. I rotated the driveshaft while it was in gear and it rotated a bit, but I've not got a clue how much is too much and that's about as far as I can diagnose haha

Can anyone give some clues on where I can look to find the problem?

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20160502134144&SearchText=bluetooth+preamp

 

Something in there that you could make work?

This is the sort of thing I'm looking for. Does anyone have any experience in wiring something like this into an existing stereo?

Hey guys,

I'm wanting to have some sort of music in my car other than AM radio, but I don't want to cut things up. I wonder if there is some sort of device like a blutooth pre amp (If that's the correct word?) where I can have a blutooth receiver which I can wire directly in to the existing radio's amp which would enable me to use the power and volume buttons on existing radio. I suppose I could also wire the blutooth pairing button to another button on the radio and can keep the original radio installed.

Does such a device exist and is it possible?

Thanks in advance!

I thought it's nearly Christmas, so I thought I should thank some of these good cunts, for their help over the past year since or so since I've had my Mirage and joined this forum.

Firstly it is too the good people who make the Old School forum truly fucking great, like the normal Joe who dispenses his great advice to take heed and learn from.

The Auckland area rep (threeonatree) - Neil who organises the monthly Wednesday meetups. With a crowd of people who are a shit load better than the general Quay Street dirtbag on a Friday night.

Another massive thankyou, (and i'm sure you would all agree.) To (zebradude) - Ben, the kind welsh fella who spends his time tirelessly answering f**king questions from us OSERS like do you have this part? How much is this? How much is that? When is the Onehunga yard opening? Is this car in your yard? Your help acquiring the cars for us to get parts from is also truly and so greatly appreciated. We ask and you make it your goal to get a car in for us. I have never heard of a man so committed to it. Ben is the man that keeps our old classics on the road. So a massive massive thank you Ben and (Bigfoot)

And to all members who make this forum truly effin great.

I want to second this. We as humans don't seem to say thank you nearly enough, but if it wasn't for every single person on this forum I wouldn't have met some of you awesome people and there's probably so many people willing to tolerate my dumb questions to help me maintain my older car as I'm not mechanically minded at all.

Have a sweet, sweet christmas OS!

Which Mitsi ones?

Seconded. Which Mitsi ones?

They shouldn't be taking your wheels off for a WOF check?!

But no it shouldn't effect a WOF, many/most drum brakes don't have any screws or anything holding the drums on other than the wheels.

Can confirm, my car 100% does not have anything holding the drums on except the wheels. You'll be sweet

Hi guys,

I'm trying to get all the parts listed in this thread:
//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/32920-ex-lancer-bush-help-needed/

I got a quote for the parts from Repco which was $900+ dollars so said "Hell No" to that and ended up getting them from someone I knew who got me the parts for half the price, but the suppliers for the companies he uses couldn't get some of them so I got replacement parts.

Anyway, my problem is, they have supplied me with the incorrect Pitman Arm after giving them all the part numbers from the above thread. The one they supplied is straight and the one on my car has a bend in it and is shorter.

So I'm after a bit of help getting the correct part if anyone can help me out. I just looked in my parts manual and the Mitsubishi part # is: MB122396 and someone has hand written MB241448 next to it which I assume is a number which supercedes the old one.

Thanks heaps!

TylerR, have you got around to doing this swap yet?

I have just swapped out my 4-speed (KM-110) on my 4G11 (1200cc) and am now running my 5-speed (KM-119) from my 4G32 and it's fine. I just had to also swap the clutch cable from the 4G32 as it is slightly shorter and without doing so the clutch wouldn't work very well.

Hope this helps.

Hope this helps:

Hi guys.

I'm looking to get a Mitsubishi colour paint mixed up to paint a plastic model car with my airbrush, but I am completely in the dark about paint codes. so theres a couple things I think I need help to understand:

Is there a global standard for paint codes or does each manufacturer have their own coding?

How does a paint shop know what to mix if the Manufacturers codes are all different?

Specifically, I'm wanting to get hold of some of the "Titanium Grey Metallic U17" colour which can be seen here:

I found what seems to be this colour, although under a different name via the link in the paint codes thread:

U17 Mercury Gray Metallic

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/choosecolor.aspx?year=2012&make=mitsubishi&model=all+models

So would the U17 be the code and I would need to tell the paint guys I want Mitsubishi U17 or do I need to do a bit more searching on Google to find the code for this U17 colour?

These questions might be completely noob questions to you guys, but I'm lost with paint.

Thanks for all the help and advice

I recently bought one of these:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/toys-models/models/tools-supplies/auction-567092139.htm

The compressor actually seems to work quite well and is pretty quiet.

I have only tried the airbrush once and I honestly can't notice the difference between the bundled one and the nice Iwata one I purchased as I'm just starting out. I'll be using mine to paint car models and not any fancy freehand graphics at the moment.

Sweet. Thanks!

I have ordered one of these myself from Mitsi. They are available

Tie rod #'s will be handy for me if you can get them.

This should make buying these a lot easier for everyone. I see this question being asked a few times now.

Cheers!

Is this the only bush you replaced or did you replace a bunch of them? If so do you have the part numbers for the others and where you got them from?

Ah, very interesting, I was under the impression that HID's used less energy. Can't get something from nothing I suppose.. It looks like theres not much point looking into a HID system for my lancer from what you guys have told me. Looks like the verdict is some decent halogen bulbs with a new housing? I don't know if it's all older cars or the Lancer EX's specifically but their lights are pretty rubbish. Are there any off the shelf regular bulbs which will make a decent difference or would I get a far better result switching to Halogen?

I came across a quick word about HID systems and how they run on something like 6v instead of 12v so can get brighter lights using less energy? I read somewhere that they may be illegal in NZ? But then I've seen alot of new cars come out with them from factory. Is there any truth to this?

The thing I find most difficult when removing the door cards is lifting it off once it's unclipped. There are clips that clip onto the door at the top which are only attached to cardboard, so if you don't get right underneath them and gently leaver it, you end up ripping them off.

On this subject, does anyone know where to get those other little round plastic clips to clip the door cards on? I can only find ones too big or too small.

Please let me know how you get on. I need to get this done on my lancer

Glad to hear it shouldn't be as much of a headache as I thought! I bought the car and I have chassis and engine manuals. Can't wait to come back to NZ to start work on it. Will let you all know how I get on

be4ever - Does that mean to change my instrument cluster and clock I would only need to swap that one piece of wiring and leave the rest alone?

I'm talking about my current Lancer EX with a 4G32 and I'm looking at buying a Lancer EX with a 4G11 which I want to swap all my better gear into from my current car.

OK, so when I change the dash cluster and clock from my 1600 donor to the 1200 It's just a matter of unplugging and swapping the looms? I was under the impression I would have to replace the wiring throughout the car and splice a million wires which would make the purchase not really worth it for me. Probably better off finding another 1600cc car in that case?

This info so far is very helpful, thanks.

Hi guys.

I'm bidding on a 1200cc Lancer EX on Trademe, and my plan was to change all my bits (engine, gearbox/drivetrain, dash etc) from my crashed 1600 into the 1200, but I have just realised the wiring may be different so I can't use my old dash.

Changing the wiring loom sounds like a huge job. I don't know. I've never needed to deal with the loom before. Is this required and how easy is it to do? If you know any more issues I may need to be aware of please let me know.

Should I try and get my bid cancelled and look for a 1600 car instead or should it be fairly easy to achieve this?

Thanks

Stephan