Scrubb

On mine the other side of that hose goes to the same place as the heater hose on the back of the inlet manifold, next to the brake booster vacuum port.

Yep, looks like that's where mine goes too

Fitted a carb lot and mr forklift is running shitloads better. Still would like to know where all the vacuum lines went, and also the water line. Water enters the base of the carb and out through a line by the idle jet. Where does that water line return please? Ta. Bruce.

Are you talking about the hose near #1 in my first picture? I can check where it goes if you need.

Hope this helps!

Stopped here for one of the stops on the Gumboot Rally. Such a sweet place, a real ghost town. There's a good pic floating around somewhere of all the Ford Escorts parked outside during the rally.

If you still need help with this let me know. I've got a 4G32 with an Aisan carb so i can take more pics if needed

I'm sorry, I missed out some information. The gearbox is a KM119 5-speed and the sticker in the engine bay says to use 80w gearbox oil and I have installed Castrol VMX Manual 80W oil (this stuff here) which was recommended.

I'm unfamiliar with that exact box but is there a bush on the end of the gear lever where it goes into the box? these can be overlooked and when worn will make gear changes more difficult, and often only cost under $20 to replace

I made sure I got a new one of these too, as I was advised this was a potential problem

I think the mechanic has given you sound advice.

New syncros on old gears can take a while to bed in and engagement issues with a refurbished box isn't uncommon ether.

The balls and springs and slight misalignment when the selector rods are refitted to the gear change forks will cause some resistance until everything settles down.

Those new bearings will load the gears slightly different due to things moving around in relation to each other now there's less play in everything.

Put some km's on it and if you're still not happy in a thousand or so then go back and see the mechanic, I would put money on him giving you the same advice.

One thing I would suggest is to drop the oil and see if there are any metal particulates in there, if yes then get it out and back to the shop asap.

Cool, I might just drop the oil as soon as it stops raining (If it ever does!) and see what's up.

I just thought I'd ask for some advice as it's a bit disappointing to spend $1,000 and have a gearbox that performs no better than it did before, but I hope time will tell!

So, I went against my own ideas and used a workshop to get some work done on my Lancers' gearbox as it was thudding and grinding into second and third gear. I normally stay away from workshops cause I don't trust others to work on my car, but thought this was something I couldn't attempt myself and it would be much quicker to just get a shop to sort it out, so I told them the problem and the shop installed new synchros for 2nd and 3rd gear with new input, main shaft and lay shaft bearings.

The problem came when I put the gearbox back in my car and went for a drive, and although it felt nice most of the time, second and third gear were still crunchy and I sometimes had difficulty sliding the lever into the correct position to engage the gear. I also noticed a whirring/ratting noise when accelerating or decelerating in 4th gear (This has since gone away though).

I have to emphasize, the guy who did the work is a really good guy, has been good to me in the past when buying parts and has been working on these cars for years, so I'm not put off by going back to him which I did, actually and he drove the car. He mentioned that it catched a bit on 2nd and 3rd but said it wasn't anything to worry about and hopefully it would go away after a bit of driving (all the other symptoms didn't present them selves while he was driving - typical!).

So my question is, since I've dropped about $1,000 on this, should I take it back and ask him to take another look at it? I'm reluctant to do this as I'll probably get charged a ton more labour to pull it apart again? What is normally done in this situation with car repairs?

Bit of thread revival action,

I saw recently that supershitauto had their house brand "blackridge" 18v impact wrenches with a whopping 1.3Ah Li battery. 

They're less than a quarter of the price of the proper top notch gear. 

So I wondered,

A, has anyone tried them?

and B, are they not too ashamed to admit buying them to tell how good/awful they were?

 

I can not justify buying a fancy pants one. My rattle gun in the shed is a 240v plug in Ozito one from bummings. Which actually goes pretty hard for what it is. And is nice to not have to have an awkward air hose, or a compressor nanging away while you work. 

 

Anyone been dumb enough to try one?

Have bought one of these for my brother and it has worked a treat on everything I've used it for so far. Used it to pull apart the suspension/diff and flywheel bolts on my Lancer

I'm well aware of docks, but this isn't what I'm going for. I wanted a way to use the factory radio and speaker, or at least use the shell of the radio.

If that Pyle stereo linked on the page previous will go in the factory location then that might be the most ideal solution. Shame it doesn't have bluetooth though, but might be a good sacrifice!

Is the reason because you have a "shaft" installed radio?

 

Pyle make a shaft installed radio, you can find them on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Classic-Car-Audio-Pyle-In-Dash-AM-FM-MP3-Dual-Knob-Car-Radio-Stereo-Head-Unit-/182112468778

 

I have one at home, still sitting in it's box I think.

By "shaft" installed, does that mean I can take the knobs off and it will slide into place where the old one was? It's a bit hard to see, but the factory one is here:

If you've still got speakers in there, I've got one of these installed in a big guitar amp cabinet with a car battery in it.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-TDA7492P-2x50W-Wireless-Bluetooth-4-0-Audio-Receiver-Digital-Amplifier-Board-/351774858133?hash=item51e76a5b95%3Ag%3AWawAAOSw-KFXehKu&_trkparms=pageci%253Acf0e3297-5c72-11e6-9ea5-74dbd180966a%257Cparentrq%253A63f60e331560a78873e9e929fff5a871%257Ciid%253A23

sounds amazing for the money.

This is probably similar to what I'd end up doing, except I'll find one with analogue volume knob, so I can wire in the existing knob/switch instead

Thanks for all the info!

I actually ended up buying one of these and wired it directly into the existing AM radio amp and power. I was able to do this buy looking up the schematics for the integrated circuits to find out which was one was the amp and which pins took the signal input and soldered directly on there, so I can reverse it if I need to.

It doesn't work entirely as I intended as I think the output from the bluetooth receiver is too high level and as soon as I turn the volume knob on the radio, it is blaringly loud with extreme distortion, so if I have the volume all the way down the speaker is sensitive enough to hear it

For the next iteration, I'll probably gut the internals and wire in a small amp from aliexpress keeping the original power switch and volume knob.

Yeah gutted! 

 

Good news though is that now that Playday on Track has been booted from Hampton.

 

They are running a HEAP of events down at Taupo. 

 

Once or twice a month sort of deal. 

 

Which is awesome as previously it's always been hard to try and find trackdays there.

 

A lot of that group of people are instead heading to the trackday on the 19th September:

 

http://www.gpforums.co.nz/threads/511742-Taupo-monday-19th-september

 

I'm still considering heading down. 

Have you driven on the track before Scrubb? 

Yup, I did a trackday there a LONG time ago with the OS peeps in my old Yellow EX. My dad and I are keen for me to have a go in his one of these.

Could be fun, but Monday is most likely out for me as I've used all my leave up at work, haha

Was keen to go to this with my dad. Shame it's been cancelled :'(

I adjusted them a bit higher last night and straightened them up a bit as I could see by eye they were pointing in the wrong direction then took it for a drive and I can actually see where I'm going which is an improvement. I also marked where my lights shone on the garage door and parked the gf's car in the same spot and her lights were just slightly higher, so mine are probably pretty much in the ballpark. I'll adjust them again properly using your method when I have a better place to do it.

Thanks for the advice tortron!

il post it here as well/move it to a tech thread because its something that takes like 5 mins assuming the adjusters are in good condition (they wont be, they will be corroded and bent) and its something that everyone on here should know, because its satisfying and driving at night with wonky lights is shit

 

 

Find a wall with level ground around it

Drive your car right up to the wall with the low beams on

 

using your tape mark out on the wall

 

The centre of the car

The vertical centre of the low beam

The horizontal centre of the low beam

 

 

Reverse back about 8-10 m

 

Now adjust the low beams (centre of the brightest area) to be 10 cm below the horizontal line

Then adjust them to be 10 cm to the left of the vertical line

 

if you have separate lights (quad lights on your car?) now adjust the high beams to be slightly below the horizontal lines, and centre on the vertical lines

 

 

done, easy as, go spend your $10 on a beer

​

Sounds good! So before I do this, should I center up my lights? I can tell by looking at them they're wonky

The reason I ask for a good workshop is because last time I got my headlights aligned as it failed WOF, I went to a garage which admitted that they couldn't figure out how to do it and I had to explain where the screws were located. This was a Mitsubishi/Holden dealer. They still charged me $20 too, the idiots!

I'd just like to confirm 100% that the alignment is okay since I put in these Philips bulbs and didn't really notice any real difference in my visibility at night, so maybe adjusting them might help. They were way too busy to do my headlights today at VTNZ when getting my WOF.

I wouldn't mind learning how to this if you wouldn't mind Tortron. It explains this in my manual, but unsure if it conforms with NZ rules, etc. I'll PM you my number.

i can teach you how to align them

you will need a tape measure, some tape, and a flat wall

That would be great! Are you available tomorrow as I'm keen to get a WOF tomorrow. I'll have to have a think of where I could find a nice level surface with a nice wall or fence.

Can anyone recommend a good workshop in Hamilton I can use tomorrow (Saturday) to get my headlights aligned properly and also a WOF?

Thanks!

Thanks for all the advice. I'll call Swann tomorrow and see if I can get classic car, agreed value insurance sorted through them as they sound highly rated by most of you!

Awesome advice so far!

I've just done a quote online with AA and the max I can insure it for would be ~$1300 and will be about ~$450 per year with $500 excess and it's still market value. This sounds awful! Do I need to be asking specifically for classic car insurance? Edit: Just read the posts above again and you guys are talking about classic insurance

FYI, the car is completely standard and unmodified, I'm almost 30 and have never had any traffic infringements or accidents and am on full license. The car is kept in a locked garage and really only used in the weekends.

Hey guys,

So, I've got another Lancer EX and have owned it for a few months now and it's time to renew the insurance. I'm currently using Waikato Insurance Brokers to insure my car and they're using NZI. It started off costing ~$300/year, then last year it went up to ~$400/year and now they're wanting ~$550/year for Full coverage, market value, so I think it's time to jump ship.

Since its a 1981 mint example with only a couple owners and It's only just done 93,000 genuine K's, I want to make sure I get agreed value and not get shafted again from the insurance company like I did with my original EX. Thread here. I want to make sure if anything does happen to it then I can at least repair or get something similar if possible.

A couple crappy pics (I haven't actually bothered taking decent pics yet):

http://imgur.com/a/n9SYo

I had a quick look over this thread and have decided I will probably be best to go with agreed value and it looks like Swann may be a viable option for an insurer, but I haven't looked in to insurance companies, YET!

So, my question is, can I please have some guidance how I should approach all of this, I want agreed value so I would need to get it valuated, how do I do this and how much would this cost? And then what happens after that? I take the valuation to an insurance company and they'll give me a number within their bounds? Is it possible to negotiate?

So, in the weekend I replaced the coil and the engine is running much smoother and the jerky behaviour when coming on and off the accelerator seems to be a million times better and almost disappeared, but it still jerks alot when decelerating in gear. It mostly happens in 1-3rd gear, I don't notice it in 4th and 5th.

Should I maybe be looking at getting the gearbox rebuilt? Second gear is a bit crunchy. Can anyone give an indication of the cost of this these days?

Put the car in gear tonight and pushed it back and forward and I don't think it moved more than an inch.

The weather is pretty crappy so couldn't do much but I attempted to move the driveshaft side to side and up and down and it felt pretty solid, which brings me to another problem I had forgotten about. When depressing the clutch pedal there is a clunking sound sometimes when the clutch engages while in gear. I'll have to jack the car up when the weather is better to play around a bit more with the driveshaft and look at diff movement.

first or reverse.

see if you can look underneath while someone rocks it back and forward- id be looking for

 

worn upper/lower susp link bushes- look for the diff rotating as the car stops moving

diff problem- if the car moves a bit but the driveshaft doesnt turn, might be in the diff, (i had a car that the spider gear pin wore a slot in the carrier and did exactly what you describe)

driveshaft- look for worn u- joints

open the bonnet and see if the engine moves around a lot ie if it has a broken engine mount

if the car moves a fair bit, and the driveshaft turns, it might be a gearbox problem

can check by wiggling the driveshaft

 

 IF it moves up and down, then the pinion bearing is on its way out.

if it rotates more than a 1/2" then the back lash is out

Awesome. This sounds like a great place to start. Will try these things tomorrow and report back.