Scrubb

So, I did a little bit of troubleshooting today. I took out the air box and sprayed the air flow sensor liberally with brake clean. It was a bit filthy, and I found the intercooler hose was loose, so I tightened that up while I was there, but none of this made any difference at all.

I did notice though, that there was a short period of time where it ran quite smoothly between the needle coming off cold and getting in to hot and only for 30 seconds or so, then it was back to it's normal spluttering.

Once it warmed up, I also disconnected the air flow sensor and it caused the car to stall, so I'm assuming that's working. I then reconnected that and disconnected the vacuum hose going to the boost sensor and the idle speed immediately dropped and ran even worse and I could hear the hose hissing so sounds like there's good vacuum there.

So would I be right to assume my sensors are probably working okay and to look elsewhere?

4 hours ago, fuel said:

Your '87 intercooled should have the same inlet manifold and injection system as a later Starion, including Ed's one. I believe Ed's is NZ-new so it will be without a cat converter, O2 sensor and exhaust temp sensor and instead has a mixture adjustment trimpot mounted somewhere.

Awesome, that should help me in my search for parts!

23 minutes ago, 0R10N said:

No worries, I'm fairly sure Ant can help you source those bits - he should be able to look everything up without needing the part numbers, but there might be several types listed so you may have to guess or provide the old one as a sample.

You could also possibly make some inquiries at Auckland Motors Mitsubishi.

Mine's a facelift 2.0 with the non-tophat intake manifold, but I think it still has the same ISC. Haven't had any trouble with it (yet - touch wood) but it's possible that Fuelmiser or someone similar makes aftermarket ones, you might even find they are shared between various models and not just restricted to the turbo ECI ones.

Oh yes, knock sensor - forgot about that. The dreaded E-101, haha. If you need to go down that route I can possibly lend you one of my good ones, as  I stockpiled a few just in case mine shits itself.

Non-top hat manifold - Is that what mine is? Image below is of my engine bay:

https://goo.gl/photos/JEF9XuZcFXzPgiZ88

53 minutes ago, 0R10N said:

The sensors are available aftermarket. I recently bought coolant temp and O2 sensors brand new from BNT for the Starion. Phone Ant the Mitsi Whisperer at BNT New Lynn and say you are from Oldschool.

Note that exhaust temp readings should only really affect things if the catalytic converter is present, and not completely choked up.

The Starion seems to be very sensitive to running the correct plug gap - I'm assuming the G62B is similar - have you made sure you're running the correct ones for the engine?

Also, I know I've already said it, but have you considered the fuel pump?

Cool, thanks, I'll contact him as I'm very particular and want to have piece of mind that all my sensors are in working order, even if they're not all 100% needed

I've got new NGK plugs in which according to NGK are the correct ones for the engine (B7ES or something like that) but I haven't gapped them as I'm not sure what the gap should be. i'll have a look under the bonnet tonight and see if it says...

I'm considering everything at this point, but I'd like to do the sensors first as nearly everything I read online of other people having the same symptoms, their issues were fixed by renewing their sensors, particularly the O2, I think, but Phil has successfully ran his without one with no issue, so I'm not sure what the deal is, but I'll start there for my own piece of mind and then move on to fuel pump, injectors and ECU/knock sensor, I guess.

OR1ON, on a side note, does your Starion have the servo ISC motor and have you ever looked at replacing this? Mine's not working and I THINK I've found the part for a 2.6 engine overseas for big bucks (Not sure ifit's the same, will have to get part number), but was wondering if it's available aftermarket here for cheaper and failing that there's a place I found which might be able to repair it as they do ones for later model Mitsubishi's.

One other quick question, will BNT be able to look up what I need, do you think? In the past I've had to provide Mitsubishi part numbers for them, but in this case I don't have any.

6 hours ago, fuel said:

Haha so the plot thickens - I messaged him a link to this post to investigate before you told me you bought it off him, but he couldn't see the thread as he doesn't have an account. I told him the issues you are having and he said it could be the ECU and/or knock sensor and to send it to John at Get It Fixed to be repaired.

The idle speed is controlled by both a servo motor and a coolant controlled wax element. I think the earlier cars like mine had further solenoid/vacuum idle control. I know I had a solenoid which triggered when the A/C was on, which had vac lines to increase idle speed.

Bugger, hopefully the ECU is still good, but I'll get the sensors sorted out first so then I know 100% they're good before I start looking at ECU, etc..

Is anybody able to assist me in sorting these sensors?

O2 sensor
Exhaust temp sensor
Air intake sensor
Air flow meter
Coolant temp sensor

1 hour ago, fuel said:

Go see Brett at Don Campbell motors - he is an EX Lancer nut and probably has 5-10 old Mitsubishis at any given point of time.

Funny you mention that. The car in question is his GSR I bought from him!

I left it with him to go over and he said he checked the vacuum lines and couldn't reproduce the problem, but that was when it only played up when hot.

Also, I know the idle speed control is controlled electronically by a motor which moves the throttle linkage which I have confirmed isn't working as I understand there should be movement when turning the key ON, but I couldn't get any movement out of it. I bumped the idle up to compensate and it idles at a good speed when hot, but a little low when cold.

Wow fuel. That's everything I needed to know, and more! Thanks!

Yes, it's an intercooled model and it misfires at all times, but gets worse as the engine heats up, to the point where every time I come to a stop, the engine stalls and when starting it back up, I have to hold my foot on accelerator so that it doesn't stall - The idle speed is fine when it decides it doesn't want to stall, though.

I've also checked the ECU coolant temp sensor and I assume it's working as I checked it's resistance when cold and when hot and it's resistance had changed dramatically.

You suggest looking at the injectors, and I will do, but I just wanted to make sure I had all my sensors in order first before getting in to anything else. Do you know if the sensors and injectors are available to buy? Probably not OEM, I would assume...

There's so many vacuum lines I'm not sure where to start, but I'll pull some off when the weather is better and check for vacuum. I did pull a couple random ones off last night and couldn't feel any vacuum. I just assumed it was because it was at idle.

After some more research I found the pic below which looks like the one on the exhaust just after the turbo - oxygen sensor
 

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/cZEAAOSwAL9UbW5k/s-l1600.jpg

I assume from my research on the net that the one after the cat will be the same. Don't know what the others are though.

Is someone able to fill me in on what the deal is with the sensors I have on my engine, what sensors do I have and how can I test them? Car is 1987 Mitsubishi Lancer EX 1800 GSR with 4G62T engine.

The reason I ask is that it's suffering from a very bad misfire which is progressively getting worse and I've replaced all the ignition components with no change and reading online leads me to possible the O2 sensor.

It looks like I potentially have 4 sensors from my quick look today, but I don't know what they are. It looks like there could be 2 on the exhaust - one before and one after the cat converter, there's a wire coming out of the air box so I assume there's one in there but I haven't taken the air box off to check, and there's one on the intake right before the injectors.

I've attempted to check the one on intake and exhaust just after the turbo by connecting my multimeter to the terminals and measured both voltage and resistance across the pins, or between ground and pin for single wire sensor and I can't get any reading at all, so I'm not sure what to do.

Is someone able to fill me in on what sensors I probably have and how to test them? I can get pics if needed but I thought maybe someone on here would be able to decipher my mumbling and know what I'm talking about

Thanks!

Hey guys,

As the title states, I need to get some rust repaired around the windscreen and will need it painted afterwards, but I'm not sure where to start as I normally enlist help with mechanical repairs and haven't had to deal with rust until now.

I'm located in Hamilton/Waikato area and have no clue where I should take my car to have the rust repaired as my experience with workshops in the past has been rubbish, so if you have anywhere you can recommend, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

So it turns out, I didn't need to import from Japan in the end. I managed to get one locally which is a shame in a way cause I was looking forward to the process, lol.

Thanks for all of the helpful advice from everyone, I'm sure this thread will be useful to others, too!

On 10/2/2016 at 21:54, nathanz said:

Ok thanks for the info! really appreciate it. I'm on the lookout for a Hiace and was contemplating the idea of importing one. Still on the search for the right exporter/agent in Japan. If you have any suggestions feel free to let me know.

 

Cheers

My thread I started on importing from Japan here might be of some help. There are suggestions of importers and websites to search for cars.

Okay, so I think I got the correct ones this time. Went to BNT and they were able to use the Mitsubishi part numbers to cross reference some aftermarket ones and I ended up with two which look the same as what's on the car and they also have the same bore sizes. Sounds like a win.

Will take the other ones I got back to Supercheap.

Thanks for the advice, all!

On 24/01/2017 at 15:26, S124AB said:

Cars on Goo-Net and similar sites are expensive.

All Goo-Net provides is an English translation service for overseas foamers, as a way to make a sale with a dealer somewhere who doesn't know two words of English.

Often the price listed is just the car, then there are a local taxes and fees that go on top, which can add up to quite a bit extra.

The local sales tax, prefecture tax, and other levies can only be deducted if the seller is licensed for exporting goods by Japanese authorities.

My agent there gets audited by the tax man on every shipload of cars he sends to me.

 

That's gonna be vital to know. Thanks!

At the moment I'm just trying to at least find a car let alone worry about taxes

1 hour ago, Nominal said:

What does the other one (on the right) look like where the bleeder goes - does it have the proper seat for a brake pipe?

The hole where the bleeder goes has nothing, just a deep hole.

Yup, that cylinder is the old one and I expected to find one the same in the packet but what I got was one with one hole identical to that picture and the other hole had a bleed nipple.

So, I was told I can remove the bleed nipple and attach the brake line instead but that doesn't sound like correct advice to me?

I'm facing a bit of confusion with my brake cylinders, so I hope someone can help me here.

I ordered 2x brake cylinders for the rear of my lancer from Supercheap. They had 2 part numbers, one for the left and one for the right.

My car has on the right side one brake line which goes into the wheel cylinder with a bleed nipple and on the left side there are two brake lines which go in to that cylinder.

The confusion arose when I went about replacing these and I started with the right hand side and I didn't even look at the part numbers in the box because the cylinder i pulled out had one brake line connection and one bleed nipple as I suspected, so I get that all put back together and I moved over to the other side, took the old one off and went to attach the new one and this one also has only one brake line fitting and a bleed nipple. I thought maybe I need to remove the bleed nipple so I did that, but the hole where the bleed nipple screws in is very different from where the brake line connects. The brake line goes in about a centimeter or so and then there's a valve or something in there, but the other hole where the bleed nipple connects is just a very deep hole, like an inch or so.

I took the wheel cylinder back to Supercheap and asked them if they could find one with 2 brake line fittings and I was told "You have them the wrong way around, the one already on the car (right side) needs to go on the left, and this one needs the bleed nipple removed and installed on the right".

Although I know nothing about these things, it didn't sound right to me so I went to Mitsubishi with the OEM part numbers and they advised BNT have direct aftermarket replacement, but before I do that, is Supercheap correct? Can I remove the bleed nipple and carry on, or do I need to get the cylinder designed to have two brake lines connected?

This is what the old one looks like:

Awesome! Nothing on those listing sites at the moment, but I'll keep an eye on them  

Ah, very good info here. Thank you all!

I understood the process more or less but didn't really know what to expect and what small details I should be aware of and these answers helped a lot to outline these small details.

If I was to research these types of companies which do all the work, such as Stacked or Autohub, what, for example, could I type in to the search engine to find and research these. Do they just call themselves "vehicle importers"?

The other question which has come up is that the car I was looking at was listed as available, but upon inquiring they have told me it has been sold, so has anyone had experience finding cars in Japan? I'm not sure who I could talk to, (Ewan?) or where I can go online to look myself as I can't find anything with Google searches.

Thanks!

OK, so you used Autohub who sorted everything for you and the only thing you needed to worry about was compliance? What are these types of companies called so I can research?

Has anybody organized all of this yourself and how did it go and what were the costs compared to a company doing it?

Hey guys,

I know this question has been asked before, but I can't find much in the search. I'm hoping someone can steer me in the right direction to determine if importing a car from Japan will be the cheaper way to go than buying in NZ. I'm looking at a genuine, stock Lancer EX GSR.

So far I have read the NZTA documentation and it seems I shouldn't have any issues registering it and the site I found the car on states what I assume to be a very reasonable rate for shipping ~$770.

So, that's the purchase, shipping and registration potentially sorted. I'm sure some of you on here have done this before and can give me a rough guide on costs and what else I need to do? Or even just point me in the right direction to find out myself.

Appreciate any advice in advance, Thanks!

Keep an eye out on the For Sale thread here.

Also, There's always parts being sold on these two Facebook groups if you wanna give that a go. Don't try too hard to make sense of most of it though, lol.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/429020023929646/

https://www.facebook.com/groups/pre1900mistibnz/

my ex lancer has bits of the factory air conditioning setup still in it, it a 4g62 non turbo so brackets may suit your motor (all there apart from the condenser if my memory serves me correctly) 

Are you willing to part with these components and are they small enough to courier?

One other question I had was, do these cars have an additional electric fan when setup for AC like more modern cars do?

Cool, great info. Thanks Spence!

I may put up a thread in the parts section and see if anyone might know of an evaporator

Hey guys, I'm wanting to fit the FACTORY air conditioning stuff (from a turbo model, I assume as I don't know if there's any 1600's with AC in NZ) to my Lancer which has the 1600 (4G32) engine in it, but I'm unsure of what I need exactly and what parts might be interchangeable from other cars.

I've looked at the car and it looks like all the factory stuff will bolt up just fine, except the compressor might need a bracket made to fit to my engine (May even not need to do this, but I'm not sure as I haven't looked at the factory bracket yet), and I may need to machine a starion or GSR Lancer crank pully to allow the extra belt.

I had a guy who was going to give me the piece which goes under the dash, but he never pulled through, and I understand I'd just need compressor, condensor and piping?

Can someone please inform me what would be the go here and if anyone knows of any factory parts, I'd be greatful. I'm new to all of this.

Thanks!