Jump to content

Scrubb

Members
  • Posts

    607
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Scrubb

  1. If anyone uses a Suzuki G13B engine make sure its a G13B (not G13BA).

    The G13B's were DOHC and some other things and the G13BA (Which my holden barina had) were just SOHC 8-valve ones..

    Site I found really good when finding info about my barina/swift was http://www.redlinegti.com and check out their forums. Theres guys who have done turbo/supercharged setups and all sorts.

    Then what does that make the engine in my father in laws Cultus/Swift?

    Its got G13B stamped on it, but has a SOHC 16 valve head.

    I'm not sure.. I could be completely wrong.. I cant remember.. but I know that G13BA is SOHC 8-valve and the suzuki swift GTI's had the G13B's which were better..

  2. If anyone uses a Suzuki G13B engine make sure its a G13B (not G13BA).

    The G13B's were DOHC and some other things and the G13BA (Which my holden barina had) were just SOHC 8-valve ones..

    Site I found really good when finding info about my barina/swift was http://www.redlinegti.com and check out their forums. Theres guys who have done turbo/supercharged setups and all sorts.

  3. Distributor points need their gap set correctly, makes a difference as well.

    Also if your tappets aren't adjusted correctly you can lose a shitload of power.

    With the MA 2L in my 929 I went from going up saddle hill (pretty steep) at 80km in 3rd to 120km in 4th after I tightened headbolts and set the tappets post-run in.

    The tappets were adjusted quite a while ago now when the head was reconditioned but its done over 1000KM's probably more since then and they still havent been adjusted.. very noisy now..

    Problem is I have no idea what I'm doing and have to wait on other people to do it for me.

    Does anyone have all the settings I could need for this engine or link me to somewhere? I have an 'Owner's Handbook' and I see Valve Clearances but nothing to do with distributer ect..

    Also on the cover of the engine it says "5 degrees at 700rpm". I'm assuming that 700rpm is the correct idle speed?

  4. you probably wont notice any difference with new plugs, just remove+wire brush and check gaps ftw.

    you'll have more power now and as a result a much nicer running car due to reaching highest combustion pressures at a more optimum time, i think its something like 20 deg ATDC

    improper base timing mucks the timing up over the whole rev range

    good to hear its running better 8)

    Check gaps? u mean on the spark plugs?

    Isnt there also some gaps in the distributor that need adjusting too? but I guess if theres no problem I wont bother.

  5. Just got the timing checked in the EX and it was 10 degrees ATDC and it should have been 5 degrees BTDC.

    Wow! what a difference! theres power all through the rev range instead of only like 3-5000rpm, and its a MUCH smoother ride in general.. Changing gears is alot smoother and dosnt jerk when I let off the gas.

    Can accelerate round shap corners in second gear and hear the rear wheels slipping sometimes now :) and gravel is very fun also :)

    Couldnt believe the difference after just changing the timing.

    Also replaced vacuum hose that went from carb to distributor which was split so much there was a hole in it lol

    My mate got it to 130KM/h in 4th gear lol. Just have to get these NOISY tapperts adjusted.. the noise getting worse..

    So how exactly would the car have been behaving before compared to now? I dont really understand ignition timing that well.

  6. Were were just driving down te rapa ways and it drove past us so I have no idea if the guy lives there or just passing through...

    I think I saw that same blue EX in TA too, I parked across the road and tooted at the guy and waved but he didnt look too impressed lol

    I've got a Yellow EX, I've seen a yellow one in hamilton with a huge dent in the side thats NOT me lol, mines straight. Search my name in the user projects section.

    Mike-e saw me a couple times in the weekend. Tried to get my attention but I didnt notice :( would have been cool to catch up with someone from here.

  7. From Wikipedia

    John De Lorean had originally envisioned that the car would produce somewhere around 200 horsepower, but eventually settled on a 170 horsepower output for the engine. However, stringent US emissions regulations required that parts such as catalytic converters be added to the vehicle before it could be sold in that country. Although the new parts qualified the vehicle for sale in the US, they caused serious reductions to power output, to 130 horsepower. The 40-horsepower loss seriously impeded the DMC-12's performance, and when combined with the forced changes to the vehicle's suspension system, the US versions were regarded as disappointing. De Lorean's comparison literature noted that the DMC-12 could achieve 0–60 mph (0–96 km/h) in 8.8 s, which would have been good for the time, but Road & Track magazine clocked the car at 10.5 s. However, it's possible that the factory performance numbers were achieved using a European spec car with the 170 horsepower engine.
  8. Awesome, so how does an better pressure plate make it grip harder and feel better exactly?

    I just bought a new clutch kit (Its from a L300 or something but looks exactly the same as the spare I have), I guess this wont make it feel any better or will it?

    Anyone have any idea of cost and part numbers or any info at all?

  9. In my 1990 Holden Barina (which just got written off :( ) it had a mean clutch. When u let the clutch pedal out it was kinda sensative and you could feel it really grab on HARD.

    The EX clutch feels all soft and squishy and you cant really feel it grab on hard.. Can I get a clutch like was on the barina for my lancer? Was it some special one or is that how the ones on those cars are?

    Be awesome if I can get a clutch like that for the EX, thats what made that car good to drive.. :)

    Edit: Whoops! should be in Technical Section, can a mod please move it?

  10. I'm confused.. says in the user manual that its designed to run on 91 octane.. the static timing should be set at 5 degrees which is factory and dosnt it advance by vacuum?

    So whats required to run it on the higher octane?

    I really want to try and get it running properly on the 91 fuel first though cuz it shouldnt have any problems as far as I understand because it didnt do it until a few days ago.. nothings changed except idle speed a little.. If I can I want to be able to get it running properly with the fuel its always been running on first so I think I'll wait untill I've put some fresh petrol and see what happens.. if its still the same I'll get timing and that sorta thing checked and then try the different fuel.. good idea or not ya think?

  11. I've always used 91 and never had any problems.. a bit confused why it would just start randomly after I increased the idle and then I put the idle down and it still does it.. weird..

    We'll see hat happens when it gets some fresh fuel in it..

    Running 91 is false economy dude, sure it's cheaper at the pump (by only a few cents) but the engine will run like complete shit compared to 95 or 98 with the ignition timed to take advantage of the higher octane fuel.

    91 has a quick flash point, ie it ignites a whole heap easier and faster than 95 or 98 - something in the combustion chamber (whether it be carbon build up, too hot a spark plug, hot exhaust valve due to being stuck open or incorrectly set tappets) is igniting the fuel (other than the spark plug sparking itself). This in turn keeps the engine running, pumping the fuel pump, drawing fuel back into the cylinder (igniting on something other than a spark) - it's basically running like a Diesel engine!

    Adjusting the idle screw could have richened up the mixture (causing excess carbon build up), or you could have adjusted the fuel mixture screw instead of the idle screw (it happens). Do you know what the timing was set at? It should be around 5deg BTDC if running on 91, but if you run on 95 or 98 you should be able to adjust it higher. If the timing is too far retarded, the engine runs hotter than usual causing hot spots.

    If the tappets on the exhaust valve are too tight not allowing the exhaust valve to sit on the valve seat for long enough to dissapate heat, the hot exhaust valve could be igniting the fuel

    There are many factors which can cause running on, I suggest you run it on 95/98, get the ignition timing set properly, run NGK BP7ES plugs and check the valve clearances (should be 0.15mm inlet, 0.25mm exhaust when hot).

    Hope that helps

    Some very good points!

    The timing was set at 5 degrees.

    We recently got new spark plugs but it was late at night and nothing was open so just got whatever they had at mobil (probably the wrong ones)

    The Tapperts were adjusted when the engine got put back together and I was told after its done some driving to get them adjusted again which hasent been done yet..

    Mike-e, Its got a factory aisan carb on it.

    Ive always wanted to run it on higher octane as my friend says he gets ALOT better milegae and performance out of it in his primera but I want to get everything actually working like it should before I change anything (if I can)

    Problem is.. I know nothing so I have to get other people to do things for me so usually not alot happens when it comes to fixing the car lol

  12. Had the head reconditioned and carb pulled apart and cleaned.. but it never did it for a long time after that and never did it before it had this work done. My uncle just put carb back and got the car 'going' so yea could be too lean?

    The timing was done when it got warrant but I havent checked it myself.. it didnt do it ONCE when the idle was really low..

×
×
  • Create New...