Spencer

Bunch of motogp bikes have variable inlet runners from a quick google if thats it? looks pretty much exactly like the old F1 ones before it was canned. As we said somewhere they have small rev range and high rpm so don't have to move far. (pic is road bike promo version I think, the might be just two step to lazy to look)

Nothing worse than a oversized and old holley carb, throw it in the bin.

Ask Bort about opportunity cost and sunk cost fallacy.

Yeah never buy any body work gear from the auto chain stores, they just sell you crap and don't give a fuck. Go see you local auto paint shop get something like evercoat (lite-weight or rage) its the shit. With the good stuff you should get basically zero shrinking, sands like a dream and no pin holes.

Go watch old hotrod garage, Boyd had some high class paint guys in there at different points in time and they skim bog whole show cars to get them perfect lol.

Hammer and shrinking first if you can.  Then bog it up, then high build only for blocking to make it super slick not to fix problems. Bog is pretty fancy these days and isn’t the devil.

I used others before PPG and Spies, just costs twice as much and for the hobbyist I don't think you gain much going to the baller stuff.

Ask the guy at the counter? they wont fuck you around. Whats are you doing? going over epoxy to block for top coat? pretty sure you want this one if you actually need the high build side of things. Its super thick shit, they have another carmaster one that is thinner.

https://www.protec.com.au/images/uploads/tech_data_sheets/CP-6120_CARMASTER_2_PACK_HI_BUILD_PRIMER_FILLER_Carmaster_Primer_16-05-16.pdf

Pretty much get everything from protec? I used their high build urethane a bunch of times for blocking, you can mix it as high build or as a regular thin coat. They are basically the cheap brand but still sell legit automotive paint systems.

Pressure while driving is nothing to do with it really, pretty much everything has fine pressure off idle unless the pump has exploded.

I thought the bottom end had been built. So its just a ghetto rebuild with no resizing or measuring how round it is? the low pressure will just be that pretty much.

I mean I hope you find something simple like the pump bleeding pressure somewhere or whatever. But I have never had any success with new bearing shells on old bottom ends.

Hmm yeah I would not be happy with a rebuilt 4k that had low pressure at idle. I have owned a couple and they had shit loads of pressure at idle they have pretty good oiling systems. But they will drop when the bottom end wears out like most things. I would spew at running anything thicker than 40w on a rebuild TBH, what were the measurements like on the bottom end? Whats the gauge say? how hot was it?

A sharn for contrast, with my old Buick 455 that has a terrible oiling system designed by some barries from the 60's it started flicking the oil light. Gauge showed like 5-7psi which happens on these donks, shimmed up the oil pump (its in this gross old alloy housing that melts) and that got me a few PSI but it slowly got worse. Pulled it down and sure enough huge clearance on the bottom end, had a ghetto rebuild at some point. Fast forward throwing all the money at it and line boring the bottom end to get it back to the factory clearances which are pretty tight. Bam 40psi at idle which drops to like 25-30psi after 30min of driving once the oil was actually hot, running synthetic 30w also. You kinda needed that idle oil pressure or almost no oil was going up the pushrods to the rockers when sitting around in traffic etc.

Nothing like some chains to bring out the Barries.

Oh and A+ project, definitely fun to follow the updates.

Yup as above. Strip disk and wire wheels, makes a huge mess and noise but it works. 
 

Big fan of paint stripper on paint and then mild acids on rust just because no noise and dust. Although if you have 2k paint or thick primer etc the paint stripper will struggle. If you are lucky and it’s factory laquer or enamel it will jump off the car with fuck all work.

Everything about that add is fuck no. Maybe if you needed some parts to save your other one etc.
 

Side sharn: My old man is a Cordia foamer he had two of them in the 80's. Will spin you yarns about winding it off the clock, beating cop cars,  doing jumps etc.

K24!

Looks like a ballache unless you have a LHD Miata though.

God damn 1G apologists in here, 150hp in a 1400-1500kg car is no fun. 1G is not a torque machine either, even though the beams needs to rev its still a similar torque curve and will beat a 1G all day. Only upside is its smooth.

Nanas/P-plater CL9 with a K24 spank them both and more fun to drive.

When you talk about 6 banger altezzas you do not mean the 1GFE ones? fine as a daily but the beams spanks them, the 1G is down 50hp. 2Jz would be best but they are all auto and wagon only.

Yeah if you get one off a v8 car with the flex plate and converter then you are good. The only tricky part I guess is setting up the cable correctly on your carb or throttle-body but there are lots of kits for that on summit etc. Pulled one out of a V8 VN and bolted it up to a 350 all good.

Then it will just break when you pull it off next time. Drill them holes.

I had a alloy pulley set on my old accord euro k24, no issues. They are widely used. Don't have one on current car but would love to test it out.

I do not think these crank pulleys are actually a engine saving dampener on a internally balanced 4 cyl engine (this is a old debate on the internet). You could get various older hondas with solid pulleys stock, B16a etc. The video above is a advertisement to buy a pulley. Below video is the reverse advertisement I guess.

There are pretty cheap alloy underdrive crank pulleys for K-series out there either china or more legit ones from USA. Might be something to look into if the alternator rev problem is a thing to be worried about, shave some rotating weight at the same time.

Love the build also, forum needs more K-series.

Best bet is to get some 2 part epoxy primer and paint it. Brush it on if you have to.

That molasses is just expensive/slow acid.

Acid for life.

Yeah OS guys proving themselves as barry as the OP's palm oil 91 guy.

Yeah never talk to that person again.

80's povo toyotas generally is all lacquer or lacquer/enamel type shit. It hardly ever happens but the story is (and on data sheets usually)  if the OG paint is 1k solvent cured stuff then you seal it with a coat of sealing primer (which is epoxy) before you 2K urethane on top due to possible reactions. Again usually shit just goes on top of other shit fine but the epoxy gives you delineation between any old lacquer and/or body work and the new shit.

The 80's and earlier lacquer looks correct on these old things, it looks "thin" and just looks correct. Then you put single stage 2K urethane white on there and it looks "thick" like its plastic coated. I cannot word it well and just my opinion, but its just something to consider/check out.