Spencer

Pretty much get everything from protec? I used their high build urethane a bunch of times for blocking, you can mix it as high build or as a regular thin coat. They are basically the cheap brand but still sell legit automotive paint systems.

Pressure while driving is nothing to do with it really, pretty much everything has fine pressure off idle unless the pump has exploded.

I thought the bottom end had been built. So its just a ghetto rebuild with no resizing or measuring how round it is? the low pressure will just be that pretty much.

I mean I hope you find something simple like the pump bleeding pressure somewhere or whatever. But I have never had any success with new bearing shells on old bottom ends.

Hmm yeah I would not be happy with a rebuilt 4k that had low pressure at idle. I have owned a couple and they had shit loads of pressure at idle they have pretty good oiling systems. But they will drop when the bottom end wears out like most things. I would spew at running anything thicker than 40w on a rebuild TBH, what were the measurements like on the bottom end? Whats the gauge say? how hot was it?

A sharn for contrast, with my old Buick 455 that has a terrible oiling system designed by some barries from the 60's it started flicking the oil light. Gauge showed like 5-7psi which happens on these donks, shimmed up the oil pump (its in this gross old alloy housing that melts) and that got me a few PSI but it slowly got worse. Pulled it down and sure enough huge clearance on the bottom end, had a ghetto rebuild at some point. Fast forward throwing all the money at it and line boring the bottom end to get it back to the factory clearances which are pretty tight. Bam 40psi at idle which drops to like 25-30psi after 30min of driving once the oil was actually hot, running synthetic 30w also. You kinda needed that idle oil pressure or almost no oil was going up the pushrods to the rockers when sitting around in traffic etc.

Nothing like some chains to bring out the Barries.

Oh and A+ project, definitely fun to follow the updates.

Yup as above. Strip disk and wire wheels, makes a huge mess and noise but it works. 
 

Big fan of paint stripper on paint and then mild acids on rust just because no noise and dust. Although if you have 2k paint or thick primer etc the paint stripper will struggle. If you are lucky and it’s factory laquer or enamel it will jump off the car with fuck all work.

Everything about that add is fuck no. Maybe if you needed some parts to save your other one etc.
 

Side sharn: My old man is a Cordia foamer he had two of them in the 80's. Will spin you yarns about winding it off the clock, beating cop cars,  doing jumps etc.

K24!

Looks like a ballache unless you have a LHD Miata though.

God damn 1G apologists in here, 150hp in a 1400-1500kg car is no fun. 1G is not a torque machine either, even though the beams needs to rev its still a similar torque curve and will beat a 1G all day. Only upside is its smooth.

Nanas/P-plater CL9 with a K24 spank them both and more fun to drive.

When you talk about 6 banger altezzas you do not mean the 1GFE ones? fine as a daily but the beams spanks them, the 1G is down 50hp. 2Jz would be best but they are all auto and wagon only.

Yeah if you get one off a v8 car with the flex plate and converter then you are good. The only tricky part I guess is setting up the cable correctly on your carb or throttle-body but there are lots of kits for that on summit etc. Pulled one out of a V8 VN and bolted it up to a 350 all good.

Then it will just break when you pull it off next time. Drill them holes.

I had a alloy pulley set on my old accord euro k24, no issues. They are widely used. Don't have one on current car but would love to test it out.

I do not think these crank pulleys are actually a engine saving dampener on a internally balanced 4 cyl engine (this is a old debate on the internet). You could get various older hondas with solid pulleys stock, B16a etc. The video above is a advertisement to buy a pulley. Below video is the reverse advertisement I guess.

There are pretty cheap alloy underdrive crank pulleys for K-series out there either china or more legit ones from USA. Might be something to look into if the alternator rev problem is a thing to be worried about, shave some rotating weight at the same time.

Love the build also, forum needs more K-series.

Best bet is to get some 2 part epoxy primer and paint it. Brush it on if you have to.

That molasses is just expensive/slow acid.

Acid for life.

Yeah OS guys proving themselves as barry as the OP's palm oil 91 guy.

Yeah never talk to that person again.

80's povo toyotas generally is all lacquer or lacquer/enamel type shit. It hardly ever happens but the story is (and on data sheets usually)  if the OG paint is 1k solvent cured stuff then you seal it with a coat of sealing primer (which is epoxy) before you 2K urethane on top due to possible reactions. Again usually shit just goes on top of other shit fine but the epoxy gives you delineation between any old lacquer and/or body work and the new shit.

The 80's and earlier lacquer looks correct on these old things, it looks "thin" and just looks correct. Then you put single stage 2K urethane white on there and it looks "thick" like its plastic coated. I cannot word it well and just my opinion, but its just something to consider/check out.

If its old as in 80's or older then it will be lacquer, I wouldn't go straight to 2K top coat or urethane primer as above. Would want epoxy primer on there, its not ideal but you can block on epoxy primer and top coat straight on it as per the sheepers method. Use protec 408 have to just take of the waxy top layer then it blocks down pretty good. So you get sealing and blocking in one step with basically the cheapest good epoxy taht exists, then do single stage white 2k on top. Probably as cheap as you can get while still using decent paint.

Only thing with single stage 2k urethane on old cars is it looks super plastic spec and makes older stuff look like a fridge or something. Hard to explain but I'm not a big fan of straight colour urethanes and would go base + clear all day on my own shit.

Also for repainting a car with 2k, you want a epoxy primer layer between the old paint and the new. Almost any will do but they have all sorts of different properties some sand better than others etc. Some are labelled as a sealer primer for this very use case.

How do you think you will get away with out blocking it down? that is asking for a shit outcome. I would do a test in the boot or something and make sure the epoxy sits on the existing paint good (which 99.9% chance it will). Then I would do urethane 2k primer as it is the easiest to sand and block on, then top coat. Like 100% when you block it you will see all the stone chips and low/high spots and they will need filler and attention, will look like shit with just primer and topcoat no blocking or sanding at all.

You can get away with two wet coats of clear 2k urethane. But 5 coats is fine, I would put shit load on a car I was keeping for ages so I had heaps to work with when correcting defects/scratches etc in the future. Premium car brands generally have much thicker paint with heaps of clear, its a good thing to have more to work with in the future.

It can be hard to spray as said above need to put it on pretty thick and cannot see it. IMO its safer to spray it a little thinner with more coats and deal with the orange peel later than try get that glass finish that you can get when everything is dialed in perfect.

Yup I used the KBS dark grey header paint. Stayed good for the 5 years I had the car.

You can do a test patch/panel if worried. Its not the end of the world it happens that clear goes on in two separate coats due to errors or some fancy places like to block down the clear and apply more after. Generally its keyed with rough scotch-brite or say 800 grit.

There is a video of that running, it is the real deal, there is another vid of it at idle and it moves though the range super quicl. AS KPR said on normal engines you need a big sweep so packaging, control, friction etc etc are all pretty decent engineering problems. That F1 solution earlier is super slick but only moves like 2 inches I guess due to the RPM and small operating range of the engine etc. 2 step design seems much easier, there are a lots of examples from manufactures.  Thread hijack but hey.