Spencer

because those ford ones are puss and skiddings hard on the mounts people rip those big ass toyota ones to bits, but sounds like your going the right was about it now

I honestly think if your drifting this thing you'll fuck those ford mounts

yea just got some for around $40 a pair from repco hookups. Toyota stz to big? I know people who have fucked the stock toyota rubbers skiding and there beefier than the ford ones. mk4 supra ones are the shit solid as but cost alot and probly to big

the flipped sump worked fine got the engine in a nice place and aslong as your confident with your welding it should be mint

Front discs redrilled

rofls did you see the pic of his front disk shes already re drilled

= you cant have them unless you register it as a 2 door (and cert it) which means removing seats and maybe welding up mounting points

not an expert on this but the mk1 escort we had the sump was chopped and flipped so the bowl was at the rear. With the pickup turned around and extended worked mint

you could ask mike-e but I think he may be busy with new job stz

im probably busy but im sure one of the boys in hams could come for a drive?

keeps the air velocity up

100hp per litre can be hard/easy to obtain most of this will depend on the head got any pics of ports and combustion chambers? the best way to achieve your goal is to get the head cleaned up, bigger valves would be nice if possible, Itbs on a nice matched manifold, good headers, most compression you can go on 98 and then cam it to suit (all the na basics). If your motor flows well you will need less cam to get the desired hp figure and have a more useable engine ie. wont have to rev the tits off it

your drill bit sucks Ive drilled shit loads of toyota hex bolts out with my evacut drill bits in my work van hand a cordless drill. Its honestly the easiest way

If I had the parts I could easily draw it up in autocad then old mike-e etc could get it laser cut for fuck all

Yea Ive done this due to being in a rush gotta make sure you clean them out and are straight up and down so it engages properly. I drilled them out and with good bits its way quicker than methods mentioned above and usually the remaining bolt will be hand tight. make sure you leave a bunch of bolts in torqued up as drilling will release the tension on the bolt instantly, asking for trouble if its the only one left in

sweet boes the box is off mykool im buying some shit off him so its under control for now

^ yea boe oil sand ftw theres alot more oil out there it just becomes way more of a cunt to get the shit hence the price goes up.

And global warming yea we cant be helping that shit but looking back earths temp has fluctuated shit loads over millions of years whats going down now is a drop in the ocean.

the ones I posted are from t3 and are made for the silvertop throttle bodies 180us which is dear but I'd be happy to pay that as all the gear Ive got from them has been top notch

http://www.technotoytuning.com

hasnt txt or pm me but guess he hasnt been online but yea if he gets in touch I got it covered transit stz, then bring it to the swap meet or mongol can grab it

Id be more concerned over the total weight of the diff than the axles like I said there inertia is fuck all

Yea torsen is short for torque sensing, It works with gears. Best option would be brand new ae86 clutch pack LSD some people dont like the feel of torsens on the track but there still pretty sweet.

Yea boes If its payed for can pick up in my work van any day of the week cos half the time I drive around doing fuck all my numbers 0275351105 boe

oh and brad best trumpets out have a full return lip on them as most air is sucked in from the side like this

^ yea a device with a accelerometer will do the same thing and is ideal but cost $. Same results with a crusty laptop hooked up to the spark output ftw just cant take the numbers it puts out as gospel. heres a little chart for inlet runner length choose your cam timing (the pulse is created by the valve) and the length is in inches up the side very crude but a rough idea

basically the weight of the car is the reference takes x amount of torque to move x weight in a certain time, tach pulses give the time, find the weight (plus drive ratios etc) and it will pump out the torque. It works mint trust me but conditions have to be similar, same road no big winds etc but useful tool.

Megasquirt is so aws because the code is open to anyone so all the good cunts out there can implement crazy ideas. Links hardware could do all the same shit as its more powerful just being out to make money they hold back shit for better versions etc

a light flywheel and good light wheels will more than make up for it. Think of the radius of a axle compared to a wheel its moment of inertia is fuck all