Spencer

It just has some mild acid in it form bacteria eating the sugar right? Citric acid is cheaper and cleaner? Good work though, acid washing rusty parts is the go for home DIY.

That wagon looks like as much or more of a money pit than the sports cars.

Prep it like you would paint it, how can it be blasted and have rust pits? this is confusing, drop it in acid and then before coating clean it with steel wool and solvent, then wax and grease with a cloth and coat. As long its clean white steel that has been keyed then coat it

Just use phosphoric acid and clean with water then white spirits. Some companies offer zinc and other shit with the acid to coat the metal (metal ready etc) I always get better results with just acid, the guys can clean it with iso or something when they get it, should most likely be blasted anyway?

Once you use it to soak parts (no hardened steel) then you'll never look back and you'll curse the over inflated shop front prices haha. Especially if you own a rust bucket. Citrus acid is weaker but more cost effective for soaking big parts also (20kg bag for $30-50 and 40kg will make maybe 1000l or more of solution, takes days to convert the rust)

As above no multilayer panels should be exposed to acids where you can't get fuck loads of water in to clean it out.

Red oxide and house paint will form rust underneath it for sure.

Use nothing but 2 part epoxy primer on bare steel, you can roll it but you will waste fuck loads.

Yea man I assumed they mean a big ass hot water blaster thing. A regular steam cleaner will work the same magic on a engine bay with way more work but also more finesse, seen them work magic on real dirty baked on car exteriors (like barn find shit). Steam cleaners are the car retailers magic tool of choice after a good DA polisher. Anyway just some OT ramblings, carry on.

If you are going to own a car then a steam cleaner is a great investment for cleaning it. Small Karcher spec ones wont last for ever but they are fuking magic, mine was under $500. Nothing does interiors better than steam cleaning and microfibre cloths.

Edit- fail post. Carry on.

This thread is great.

That Atlantic ECU looks like a late 80's 4age stock ECU with the software opened up, only two injector drivers! 

Holy shit dude, so envious of those lush new parts! 

Yea man just make it work as is, get the rear end sorted if it already isn't.

No, buy a wideband a re-tune.

I'm sure their manual has the info, I'm too lazy. But you can probably adapt some real nice bike throttles off something EFI and do it way easier, I bought a few sets of bike trottles in the past off ebay (US) for a couple hundy each. They came with TPS and injectors mounted in them which if you can find some with the correct spacing (should be easy, you have some leeway with rubber runners etc) makes this a much simpler swap.

It's still not worth the effort steeb.

If you are spending that money get something you can adjust the vacuum advance, change stops and the springs, Then tune with a knock sensor and you will get the most out of the motor. Use a q-jet also.

You really want to make sure your original distributor isn't a worn out piece of shit before you kit it with some electronic gear. Best to go after market and get something you can adjust the advance "curve" with.

Should delete that exhaust and get a wideband on it, check timing, new plugs, check air filter, then get a supra.

The IRS ones are flappy arm though? He's probably better off.

Yea do that.

Yes those also.

You should find out what's wrong with the engine first. These engines still have parts available so maybe you can do a head gasket or something similar and be fine, maybe not. Best to find out for sure instead of guessing.

Some kind of chambered muffler (preferably a larger pipe size than the zaust) with some pipe after it will make a huge difference.

You are overthinking this whole thing, just use what it has (ITBs) and make a plenum. You can bang up a plenum out of steel if needed, nicer (but less DIY friendly) obviously out of alloy. Job done.