Spencer

Lots of factory cars in the 90's before the newer generation of EFI had some simple little controllers/power supplies to do this. Also PWM controllers to make the pump quiet until you plant it.

How dare you.

I'm giving like a low enthusiasm old man responses but as you are doing basically a full resto you have your hands full with the body. Doing all that stuff in your list could buy you a spare blacktop 4age to sit in the corner of the shed. Save all the money and do some basic maintenance on the current motor like seals and cambelt, they will rev to 8k+ all day long with high km's they just use some oil usually. Buy that aftermarket ECU and learn to tune the stock engine when you get that far it will be the best bang for buck for learning and making the conversion easier. Slotting in a built motor down the track is fuck all, getting it going the easiest and economical  way possible should be goal one, get that cert and re-evaluate once you actually drive the thing. I know pondering all this engine shit is the best part of a build but you need to channel this energy into panel work haha

Unless you have like $30k put away for this build then ignore me and go nuts.

As said earlier there is for sure gains to lighter oil. Running thick oil without measuring pressure on the engine is silly. 

Trans is another kettle of fish nut makes sense to run as light as possible. I think I hinted earlier that some drag cars guys use the lightest lubricants possible everywhere (ie no grease packed wheel bearings etc)

Then later on slap a small turbo off the side of it for best bang for buck.

Best value for money on this conversion is probably aftermarket ECU,I would forget working the motor for now NA is expensive. Just build a nice big airtbox for the ITB's, exhaust and headers and tune and drive it. It will be a blast like this.

I had a ke20 with a bluetop, made the 4age feel extra fast even compared to something light like a AE82. Just chuck in the stock blacktop and work out development and rebuilds later I think. Focus on making the conversion look great, being practical and everything working.

If you spend like $150 on a decent controller you can just use a normal thermistor (the gauge one) and set the fans up to come on/off at any range. I have found using switches can be hit and miss as every application is different.

Just read a article about F1 using jet fired ignition, so cool. They reach 50% thermodynamic efficiency at best.

Whos going to retrofit this to their aero civic or subrau XT?

If you want results that are decent and last you have to put some work in. Start with sanding, depends how bad it is but you can usually start at 600 (sometimes lower) and work your way up, then finish with any decent car polish, if you can take them off the car and use a DA and paint cutting compound it saves lots of labour. The clear coat is a good idea as the UV protection of the plastic is completely gone if you clean these up with abrasives, you really want to use 2k clear and cut that smooth also. Or instead of clear-coat you can just keep them waxed and polished with your car cleaning routine.

SOme are fucked on the inside also if they have been leaking so you may need to pull them apart to sort that 

You now probably own the lushest magna in Australia.

Totally, we need to round out the mid life crisis sports cars.

This thing is so lush.

I was joking! the thread is going nowhere, conclusion was made that even though it's fine to move the rack sideways it's illegal. It's up to the OP now not a Barry pissing contest.

he has more experience than books man.

The housing is just a mount essentially, nothing changes but lock. The thing that changes fundamental geometry is the length of the rack itself (which OMG stays the same) and its position in space, which if you move the housing sideways you can turn the steering wheel and its back where it was. 

Anyway its illegal, just roll dangerously like sentra dave.

Are you sure? think about it.

Yea people just blindly put 20/50 in older cars without checking pressure, makes me sad.

Just do it, nothing will be magic.

There's even a youtube walkthrough video pete

Whole subframe drops out with engine right? hit up Sentra or whoever has hoist access. Honest its just a engine, get a service manual and do it (looks like there is PDF's online). Surely a warranty cam belt on a fezza will cost like $6k or not exist.

I have a plan Pete, put the Vantage on the market and wait out a buyer. Take a loss if needed, then move to Brisbane with the fezza.

Also just fix the Ferrari yourself, its all old as balls stuff so easy to fix (just spendy parts and time consuming due to construction style) I'm sure the internet is full of DIY fezza owners. If the injection ever has issues install a link (im serious) just make it easily reversible to the dual bosch shit. Then make some Roman spec graphs, I'd probably want to datalog what its doing anyway and give it a mega tune up.

Pete more pics plz, engine bay interior etc.

I just don't like them, its internet opinions. Had a few friends with them break that I had to fix, boxer layout just seems a gimmick at this stage. I see zero appeal and express this with words of hate.

BURN THEM ALL.