Spencer

You meaning the last one 2002-2007? They come in front tugs and AWD with 1.8 1ZZ and 2.0 1AZ and Mack daddy turbo model with the 3S. If you get a front tugs normal one it’s just a fat corolla, does car things well. 

If you can’t open it up and do things properly you are best off with a wax product over any kind of paint that won’t stick.

Bling a face mask and googles works fine, fogs up but works. If you spray outside with epoxy you are safe as fuck, honestly it’s the urethane and especially the clear that will murder you through your skin and eyes.

Brunox is garbage also.

You prep steel with mechanical abrasion of some kind until it’s white, or acid wash it if it’s pitted and can’t be blasted/sanded, then steel wool scrub and clean it. Two part epoxy primer brushed or sprayed and that is pretty much it, we keep going over this every other month. Epoxy primer doesn’t have any where near as much of the death cyanide like urethane it’s much safer to spray in that regard. 

Yeah it’s pretty garbage, did you use their acid wash first? It’s what they recommend and it helps. They use the POR15 tech (water cured urethane) in industry so it does work, but they have a prep process similar with the acid wash first I’m pretty sure. You cannot slap it on bare/rusty steel like people do, it fails all the time. I used it on some big surface areas in the past and ground it al off later as it is garbage compared to actual car paint products.

2 part epoxy primer is basically the only thing you should use on bare steel if it’s something you care about. 

The 3m paint ones that are super common do. They just don’t advertise it as such. It’s absorbed in your eyes and skin so best to paint outside or well ventilated open shed and deal with the dust and things as you go. 

Wheels take a beating so if you want it to last a long time you would use 2k urethane. Then it’s easy to keep them in tip top shape, you can wax, clay bar, polish etc real easy. Clear or single stage 2 part is up to you, single stage 2 part urethane looks kinda weird in some colours/applications,base and clear would be the go IMO. 

Its basically choose the paint technology that suits the durability you want. Solvent cured paint if you want it to last fuck all, modern 2 part paint for everything else.

Tear down the POS that’s in there and get it measured, see if it will take a overbore and usually/hopefully bottom end shouldn’t need much. That’s like couple hundy and wait and see what comes up second hand in that time. End of the day you sink a grand or two in ghetto rebuild or maybe less if the universe deals something up used. Any kind of conversion does not gain any return, it’s counter productive to house buying/saving and free time. This should be pretty obvious. 

Life is hard man, keep it up.

Man I hate it when you get to a point where you have to do way more than you intended (story of OS cars). But as others say it looks like you should whip that motor out and pull all the seam sealer and floor deadening, blast it, patch it, epoxy, seam seal, paint all in one go. If you are balls deep and keeping this thing then may as well make that front end last as long as you will and not have to look at it again. Poor old thing is melting in the front end, I would want to kick all that in the dick.

Yeah and the weight of the car. Crown wagon weighed nothing in the arse and needed like 20psi, and maybe 50 in the front at cruise height. My numbers were just for argument sake. It had no shocks and man you could feel the difference in spring rate with pressure front to rear, rode best loaded up with cunts so you could run more air.

It’s fact you get less spring rate with less pressure which intuitively is the reverse of what you want (for slam, it’s great for load carrying you can add more spring). In practice shit is gravy. Run the biggest bag you can fit for more volume and better ride when low.

I’m wrong all the time.

I think rookie was right in some sense, he’s saying it seems the purpose of bags is to roll around with your car slammed. But when you have low pressure to get the car low you do get less spring rate which seems like it is exactly what you don’t want, he was asking a question.

In practice though you never really roll at max slam dragging the chassis with 15psi in the bags unless you are like 22 still and trying to be awesome. Even then a low spring rate when slammed actually works quite well on the road, especially with good bump stops and shocks. IRL it’s never really a problem because you roll a couple inches above max slam and by then you might have say 50psi in the bags and shit is all good, driving on a cloud etc. 

It does when you run different size bags?

Bigger bags = better ride when low.

is that what we are talking about?

Yeah someone in NZ probably has it all the brackets on the shelf for a 64. Looks like they have all the fancy new accuair tank/valve combos which look amazing.

Oh weld on front shock perches with that kit, but that is super basic with the supplied parts.

And the reason for no shockwaves (even though they are cool) is only from second hand experience. They have less travel and hold less air so not as good of a ride. Also puts all the weight of the car on the shock mounts, which is not the end of the world but kinda lame.

I have their shocks in my wagon (on springs) they use custom fox racing shocks and they are amazing, dialed right in for the car they are supplied for.

Yeah this thread isn't really coherent and good for advice, didn't make sense your other thread was closed.

Anyway, just buy a ride tech kit. Avoid the shockwaves (shock and bag combo unit) and it is all pretty much bolt in with some slight mods to spring cup and maybe rear perch. Look at the instructions for the link below for how it will bolt together. You can buy all these parts separate etc, they also have a automagic controller that self levels, their one or the accuair ones are dope.

https://www.ridetech.com/products/suspension-packages/product-3298/

So get the bolt in kit with fancy controller is my vote, pay the $$ up front and just bang it in and done forever.

Probably buy some long leads from rockauto with one end you want, buy the terminals and rubber for the other end and buy a crimp tool. I think I got all my Buick ones from USA ebay.

Glad you got this sorted man, was sad panda when I seen it had died straight away.

Google says people use a $50 aliexpress device to get codes and reset shit on these porches. Worth a look. There’s really not that many things to go wrong and give you the issue, just takes ages to actually work through a process and find the cause vs pray and spray with new parts. 

The red is great man, put it back together.

Yup 10amp plug with a short 15amp extension filed down all day. Realistically you will be spot welding like 99% of the time doing panel work.

That little inverter for $450 looks like a good starting point for sure.

Oh and a inverter MIG of a decentish brand will hold its value if you need to get rid of it. The reason they never are for sale second hand is they move fast, usually your friend will want to buy it before you can list it.

OS goes through the welder yarn a lot. 

MIG is 100% the way to start out for fucking around on cars it’s easy and cheap to get going. You can start with a cheaper unit if that is your price point, but IMO just jump to around the $1000 mark and you can get a inverter MIG which are super lush to use. Yes you get the extra TIG functionality but most likely you will never be bothered to have two gas bottles to fuck around with it. The actual bonus is how lush these cheap inverter units lay down weld, it’s just better than a sub $1000 traditional setup. Usually you get finer control also.

There is nothing extra to fuck out, there is no extra complexity to add the TIG and ARC functionally it’s just a bonus due to having the inverter deliver the juice. It’s literally a extra plug on the front and the torches will sit in the draw gathering dust while you MIG shit together all day.

Sweet car man, also good work on going straight to air ride. Those kits are legit. 

This is a fucking lush wagon, digging that metallic brown paint.

The 3m wood-grain is super expensive and is weird, now days its made for the interior of buildings not cars (I got fuck loads of samples for my wag). Although you only need a small bit so it may work for you. If you know a good sign writer with a good high res woodgrain image then that would be a easier option maybe.

There is one super cheap off the shelf wood grain vynil in the world here at JC Whitney, only one colour option though and its a 20ft roll haha. Only $67 USD though, its good shit.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/details/Univ/Spartan/Decal/SPA9930020.html#plpslot5

1 hour ago, Ashkellybarr said:

What two part product would you recommend?

Thats a open ended question I guess. Depends on what you want to spend and how much you think there is differences between the major brands? Some people want to stick to a paint system so will buy all PPG or similar known brand products, at least you know they are all recommended to function together. I used PPG on one of my first cars ( I have only painted ~5 cars, hardly a expert) because I knew nothing and it was a known brand of paint (cost me a fortune in Taupo also), it was good shit. Now in Australia I bought a couple brands but stuck to Protec because it was cheap, honestly I cannot tell the difference in quality. You would have to paint two cars and leave them in the sun for 15-20 years to see which is better.

Basically any major brand of 2 part epoxy primer designed for automotive use should be most peoples go-to for everything on bare metal. There a a million variants, some industrial "rust protection" ones with zinc, marine ones are more weather resistant but probably shit to sand. The Protec epotec? was a happy medium, you could do a quick block on it no problem, it had great adhesion and price, 4L for $100. Its probably more now, last lot I got was 3 years ago, no project life.

Yeah as far as cans go that stuff isn't bad. I painted some outdoor furniture with it and its holding up.

It all depends on how much effort and how long you want the paint to last with cars. Its a cunt of job usually to clean things up for paint so why put garbage on there. Unless its to flick it then its a different story.