Spencer

Yeah looks like what happens when you bog on bare steel and its gets moisture in it, or you leave a car sitting around with 1k etch or high build primers I have seen similar things. Just general failure of whatever paint system/methods were used on the respray. Epoxy for life when you fix it.

Sweet ride, pretty jelly.

That article about lowering improving efficiency says tests were done at 150kph lol

Yeah I had a set done, pulled apart chromed and welded it was like 10 years ago so cannot remember who did it. They came out mint, used them for a few years and sold them to Sam, he told me later that the chrome all peeled off so not really a win there.

Keen to see a custom chassis on a Crown as we have talked about it for a million years. All the swaps apart from JZ shit are a big compromise due to the available space.

Hell yeah looking good. Just cut the chassis off at the firewall and fab up a new front end to fit the v12, not much room in these things for much more than a 6 banger really.

Sounds like the test is pretty easy/shit? not some California spec test. So law just has a big loophole anyway.

Yeah.

This one is basically the top line Penrite oil, on the shelf at supercheap and repco usually. probably overkill but it will do all the things you need.

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/10-tenths-racing-10w-40-100-pao-ester

Yeah nothing wrong with penrite for sure, there is a shitload of dinosaur motors running it no prob, never head of anyone wiping a cam or anything on a run in motor with it. Just don't go and run the 50w off the bat, use oil pressure gauge to double check but the 10-40w would be the place to start, get more oil up top with thinner oil. I used the full synthetic PAO ester spendy one and its magic.

Yeah Penrite is where its at for flat tappets, is available everywhere and has stacks of zinc. Just need to choose what weight and if you want to run synthetic. I ran the synthetic 10-40w one in a 455 after rebuild for many miles.

They look like shit.

Ah yeah there's lots of options for cats and they don't rob f-all power especially high flow ones. They do make the car way less smelly which is a big bonus. Probably put tiny particles out and melt the ice caps but hey.

It is Barry 101 to be stoked on the rarity of your own particular vehicle. Not sure why as if it’s actually rare it means no spares and will cost you heaps.

Uh yeah if you have a new thing with emissions you know what you got yourself into. Keep it working or gtfo.

Yeah the error bars on that data would be huge so wouldn’t get too excited. Database built from paper records with no structure/rules on how the data was input.

Yeah man chuck whatever on it pretty much, this for under car?

I think its basically a fact that all hondas go harder with a 3" zaust? Just have to put up with the noise.

You can probably dig through the dead forums and find a million dynos on honda shit (with dead pic links ). You definitely can for K20/24 every combo of parts has been tested if you look.

Yeah should try get the shorter front kyb’s that work in these they have firmer valving which helps heaps with the ride and will give you some spring preload. Have to look up what they are.

Sounds like those rear shocks are shit? Sometimes the ones that were short and work are off trucks like hiluxs and are way too firm maybe. I have had rear shocks shortened for this kinda thing in the past to get something sorted cheap that rides good. 

Yeah well if the bumps aren't cut down and lots of spring has been cut out then it will ride like a bag of dicks.

OK good news, the 1GGE is not a torque monster so manual is a better option.

For the lowering you need to determine if its spring rate or shocks making it ride shit (maybe both). You may not have a reference point to feel what is going on but because the springs are too hard/soft (cutting them makes them firmer) or if its just the shock not dampening enough making in waffle around. Most of these wakas I have messed around with you cut the springs and use a new KYB shorter shock up front (celica or whatever it was with spacer underneath) my one was live axle so cut springs and some shorter KYBs off the shelf to stop the spring falling out. Done that same thing on a few cars MX71, ae86 etc etc and they ride good enough for poor mans lowering. Kinda sounds like it might have shit shocks as cut springs are kinda proven to ride OKish in this situation. You only need short enough shocks to keep the springs located, other than that the actual dampening is what matters. The Celica KYB's we would run in everything are firmer that stock and the rears were firm also, cant remember what they were from though. Think the bumps should be cut in half front and back for some more travel is the standard mod, make some burnout smoke with the grinder to cut them.

So regarding the trans you can use a micro squirt to run the Toyota A341E which is super common behind soarers and surpas and a million things in the 90s. You will be able to setup a 1G bell housing and converter I’m sure they came behind 1G’s. The supra one shifts crisp and you can bang the gears, other ones from normal cars a more sad but you can get shift kits and shit. When I was messing with them there was no controller but the microsquirt trans thing was finally made and should be sweet. 

Depends on what the 6" rims are? 6" is not very wide, depending on offset and wheel face you could get a nice OG look with hubcaps/trim rings and whitewalls without having to run biscuits and balloons.

Yeah it was probably made to roll cross plys on the original skinny rims which is a different beast. As the above suggestions you should think about it and piece together a combo that rides as nice as possible which wont be just reverting back to stock err thing.

Yeah all the same, there's like 10 options for brands so you could cross reference the gates part number etc if you wanted to be sure.

If you use a account when ordering shit you will pretty much always have a discount code in your profile ready to go.

^ this is the only way.

Find your Protec supplier and use 408 epoxy. Protec also do cheap black industrial spec 2K urethane top coats which are great for this kinda thing.

Many ways to skin the cat here, but honestly the Penrite oil is over the counter at every parts store pretty much. Has 1600 ppm zinc so its well over spec. Its has all the right things, no detergents etc as per spec sheet.

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/10 TENTHS RUNNING-IN OIL 15W-40 (Mineral).pdf

Then just switch to one of their other full zinc oils and carry on. 1x shitty Buick motor here not exploded on Penrite oil.