Spencer

Yeah nothing wrong with penrite for sure, there is a shitload of dinosaur motors running it no prob, never head of anyone wiping a cam or anything on a run in motor with it. Just don't go and run the 50w off the bat, use oil pressure gauge to double check but the 10-40w would be the place to start, get more oil up top with thinner oil. I used the full synthetic PAO ester spendy one and its magic.

Yeah Penrite is where its at for flat tappets, is available everywhere and has stacks of zinc. Just need to choose what weight and if you want to run synthetic. I ran the synthetic 10-40w one in a 455 after rebuild for many miles.

They look like shit.

Ah yeah there's lots of options for cats and they don't rob f-all power especially high flow ones. They do make the car way less smelly which is a big bonus. Probably put tiny particles out and melt the ice caps but hey.

It is Barry 101 to be stoked on the rarity of your own particular vehicle. Not sure why as if it’s actually rare it means no spares and will cost you heaps.

Uh yeah if you have a new thing with emissions you know what you got yourself into. Keep it working or gtfo.

Yeah the error bars on that data would be huge so wouldn’t get too excited. Database built from paper records with no structure/rules on how the data was input.

Yeah man chuck whatever on it pretty much, this for under car?

I think its basically a fact that all hondas go harder with a 3" zaust? Just have to put up with the noise.

You can probably dig through the dead forums and find a million dynos on honda shit (with dead pic links ). You definitely can for K20/24 every combo of parts has been tested if you look.

Yeah should try get the shorter front kyb’s that work in these they have firmer valving which helps heaps with the ride and will give you some spring preload. Have to look up what they are.

Sounds like those rear shocks are shit? Sometimes the ones that were short and work are off trucks like hiluxs and are way too firm maybe. I have had rear shocks shortened for this kinda thing in the past to get something sorted cheap that rides good. 

Yeah well if the bumps aren't cut down and lots of spring has been cut out then it will ride like a bag of dicks.

OK good news, the 1GGE is not a torque monster so manual is a better option.

For the lowering you need to determine if its spring rate or shocks making it ride shit (maybe both). You may not have a reference point to feel what is going on but because the springs are too hard/soft (cutting them makes them firmer) or if its just the shock not dampening enough making in waffle around. Most of these wakas I have messed around with you cut the springs and use a new KYB shorter shock up front (celica or whatever it was with spacer underneath) my one was live axle so cut springs and some shorter KYBs off the shelf to stop the spring falling out. Done that same thing on a few cars MX71, ae86 etc etc and they ride good enough for poor mans lowering. Kinda sounds like it might have shit shocks as cut springs are kinda proven to ride OKish in this situation. You only need short enough shocks to keep the springs located, other than that the actual dampening is what matters. The Celica KYB's we would run in everything are firmer that stock and the rears were firm also, cant remember what they were from though. Think the bumps should be cut in half front and back for some more travel is the standard mod, make some burnout smoke with the grinder to cut them.

So regarding the trans you can use a micro squirt to run the Toyota A341E which is super common behind soarers and surpas and a million things in the 90s. You will be able to setup a 1G bell housing and converter I’m sure they came behind 1G’s. The supra one shifts crisp and you can bang the gears, other ones from normal cars a more sad but you can get shift kits and shit. When I was messing with them there was no controller but the microsquirt trans thing was finally made and should be sweet. 

Depends on what the 6" rims are? 6" is not very wide, depending on offset and wheel face you could get a nice OG look with hubcaps/trim rings and whitewalls without having to run biscuits and balloons.

Yeah it was probably made to roll cross plys on the original skinny rims which is a different beast. As the above suggestions you should think about it and piece together a combo that rides as nice as possible which wont be just reverting back to stock err thing.

Yeah all the same, there's like 10 options for brands so you could cross reference the gates part number etc if you wanted to be sure.

If you use a account when ordering shit you will pretty much always have a discount code in your profile ready to go.

^ this is the only way.

Find your Protec supplier and use 408 epoxy. Protec also do cheap black industrial spec 2K urethane top coats which are great for this kinda thing.

Many ways to skin the cat here, but honestly the Penrite oil is over the counter at every parts store pretty much. Has 1600 ppm zinc so its well over spec. Its has all the right things, no detergents etc as per spec sheet.

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/10 TENTHS RUNNING-IN OIL 15W-40 (Mineral).pdf

Then just switch to one of their other full zinc oils and carry on. 1x shitty Buick motor here not exploded on Penrite oil.

Yeah used that penrite mineral run in oil on big block buick, I think the most important thing is if you have flat tappet cam that you dont wipe it out. So crank it until you have oil pressure and then fire it. Then rev to 3k RPM for 15min or whatever the cam spec sheet says. Then just hoon it and change oil lots, check filters and oil for metal and if no metal you win. Don't think you need to bother with additives, I just switched to Penrite full zinc synthetic after that and never had issues over 7 or so years. Main concern was the ye old-time shitty oiling system rather thab the oil brand so don't run thicker oil than needed to have good pressure or you get way less oil up top through the pushrods.

I would scotch brite it with wax and grease at a minimum, see what happens. Or spray a patch then sand it back to test.

The test is when you sand it back, have had epoxy stick not so well to a bunch of things when you start sanding.

When block sanding you will go through your epoxy and/or high build primer and that is the real test, if you have some shit adhesion at the base layer (like some shit single stage rust primer or badly prepped steel) the edges don't feather and things come off in little clumps leaving sharp edges, just making more work by needing filler etc to fix it. Then in the back of your mind for the next 10 years that your paint job is stuck on real shit. You get away with it on internal fix ups where you just poo it on and walk away, it sticks so well to itself that it doesn't go anywhere.

Just bail on it, don't need to mess with no 10 year old car throwing codes. Unless the code is a feature and you are getting it cheap because of something you know how to fix.

No idea man, I had to google it. Most paint companies have those general use acrylic urethane top coats but not sure what the finish is like. What do you want to do with it? Generally for top coats its just base-coat + 2k urethane clear if you want metallic or a nice looking clear coat finish, or a automotive single stage 2k urethane for plain colours but they can look kinda plasticy and weird on old cars that originally had a lacquer or enamel paint job IMO.

Yeah something went wrong, 2 part epoxy will usually stick pretty good even to a poorly prepped surface.

So using the data sheet for something like the protec 408 epoxy primer it says to sandblast your metal or sand it until clean and coat it. Says if you are using new sheet metal to use their acid wash (which is phosphoric acid) to remove the oils, read the data sheet for the acid wash it says to use steel wool to apply and wash with water so you are washing and scouring it, then wax and grease before painting. This is how I learnt from a couple restoration body work guys, backed up by the data sheets of most paint systems. Now epoxy is used as a sealer of old paint so it does stick to other shit and usually well. But you want to test it out and if you go all the way to bare metal I don't see why you would want anything else under it, especially a rust converter primer, they don't have the same adhesion as magic chemically cured 2 part epoxies.

http://www.ppglic.com.au/uploads/tds/408 Epotec Epoxy Primer (2).pdf

So for all applications its pretty much clean white sanded/scotch brite steel clean with wax and grease and then apply 2 part epoxy. If you have pitting or want to clean it then acid wash with phosphoric, neutralise with water. I would still key the metal up again with scotch brite after the acid wash to remove everything as you can get some residue if the acid wash got dry. Anything else is garbage IMO.

Then for safety as said modern epoxy cures with polyamide, old school ones used amine or something toxic (not a chemist). So 2 part epoxy is very similar as other single stage paints as far as safety goes, ie don't breath it and avoid getting it on the skin and eyes. It doesn't have the extra death factor of polyurethane which cure with isocyanate, anyone who has sprayed urethane clear knows how deadly that shit smells.