Spencer

Awesome work dude. Looking forward to the stage when you can zing the throttle and see how good the dort is.

I saved my 2010 ones from photobucket awhile back. Here's the Alan ones, unfortunately potato resolution on the pics from that era so probably not the best to blow up for a book.

7.5" they are pretty good size for the weight and power of this thing. You will find out with some slicks and hard launches I guess

The flattening agent is mixed in by the paint shop, there is some limit where it goes to shit so they are usually scared to add too much in. But if you get someone who will mix it up (or buy your own and test) you should be able to get it pretty flat in 2K.

Fresh lacquer paint looks better in matt black but its not durable at all (it will stain and go chalky at some point), 2K single stage urethane by its nature has this plastic look to it so flattening it out it can still look funny but I have seen a few that look good (they probably use flat clear).

 Belt seems legit like that, new cover and yeah some kind of adjustment on that idler and its done. Keeping those timing marks will be nice.

Just get one of these stage 4 3T heads faxed over and you are good for 9's (well I think the turbo 3TC's did 7's like 15 years ago so probably faster)

https://paradiseracing.com/products/toyota-2tc-3tc-stage-4-cylinder-head

@xsspeed these guys are living the dream running 9's in a 3T starlet.

1 hour ago, Roman said:

 

2zz echos in puerto rico run 10 second quarter miles on a stock bottom end.

 

Damn now you made me go watch videos of Peurto Rico NA drag racing, pretty sure there was a 9.9 second NA 3TC so the 2ZZ must be junk.

Man do they have the coolest drag racing scene or what.

Dang how much does a magic solid object printer thing cost?

When I had a big citric acid bath going I would wash with the hose then clean with a scotch brite pad and wax and grease. The metal comes out with a pickle on it from a acid wash and sanding/scrubbing it up bright white before paint is what you really want.

2K Epoxy for everything.

I don't actually know but if I was speculating the sump on these modern motors is probably factored into the block rigidity equation when they model/test/create these modern alloy engine blocks. Usually they tie into the gearbox etc so they are a structural part that probably adds rigidity to the bottom end. In motors that have shitty bottom ends (old shit with average designs) block rigidity problems usually show up when you rev them more than stock and the block/crank gets wobbly and you run bearings more often or get funky harmonics. I would guess that is why that guy with the turbo motor in the 86 made a custom sump out of a chunk of alloy so its as strong or better than the original part. This is just me talking shit as I don't know if it was designed to be structural or not, something to consider when replacing it though.

Hey so why is the front bowl sump like the cressida guy is using no good? Still sit too high and forward with that setup? The look pretty shit the bowl is giant.

Check out the chunk of alloy sump this geezer made, just do that lol.

https://www.turbofast.com.au/GT86.html

Whats the sump plan secret guy? alloy sumps with bracing make sump changes annoying compared to the old tin sump cut and shut stuff.

OK he says in that thread somewhere the front sump is FWD, seems like theres a couple FWD sumps one is front and one kinda blobs into the middle. Anyway find the sump he has.

Man pretty decent sized donk these things. The big boy 3500 with throttles and 300+hp would be pretty sweet NA if you want more beans later.

Anyway I don't know shit about them but went briefly looking, this dude jammed one into a mx83 which in the scheme of things is similar to the Carina. His IS350 engine looks to have a real deal front sump but I could not find the corresponding front sump in parts diagrams and gave up. Can probably dig it up and buy one new the mid sump one on Amayama is like $300 for the alloy part.

https://cressidaforums.forumotion.com/t380-2gr-fse-into-mx83-swap-thread

Yeah drop it in man see whats up, I would guess as you said the steering is probably right in the way. You find out fast when you plonk it in the bay and then its either easy or you make heaps of excuses how you can make it work and take 1 million years and $$.

Anyway ling posts but make it sound like one of these Mondeo V6 things please.

Yeah no idea but probably.

I was just being silly, that lightweight truck flywheel is still heavy as. I have seen many a custom flywheel so if you chuck money at it should be easy. Then also seen a bunch of chopped and welded bellhousings by people with engineering and alloy weldy skills so should be all doable.

Shit get a racing truck flywheel even better.

18 hours ago, xsspeed said:

Who was talking about low intakes? Speeno? All of these seem to sit high

The early cars hard normal heads and big duct work around the front to pickup behind the grill. Then the middle era cars had intakes at the front, usually a pickup behind the grill. Some of the last cars had the intake tied into the air feed from the bumper with full front end carbon ducting, just speculating that it is probably better airflow down that way or just packaging it all into the front aero who knows. Then kinda backhand suggesting that roman needs to move his engine back 30-40cm and flip the axles out the front so he can fit the outboard injection and the filter in nicely.

Renault and honda below.

Yeah I think its just for clean/cold air, but the later 90's cars all seem to intake down from the bumper, making me wonder if the grill is just a bad spot for some reason. But then the later ones all have magic duct work up front also that they tie into.

Just a excuse to look at BTCC engine bays really /ling

That new rad looks heavy? its surprising this thing while moving at the track gets hot TBH, usually can get away with small radiators on small 4 banger track cars because you are always moving and have all that airflow.

Nice that you can get the intake over into the front area now. If you look at the old BTCC cars that have stacks of room up front they seem to duct the (massive) airbox down to the lower area and pickup from the bumper intake rather than the grill. I would guess better pressure area? Just talking shit as obviously you dont have the luxury of all that space of a slammed engine race car but its interesting.

Yeah agree that depending on your gun a single phase will keep up with painting, but they do run almost all the time depending where its placed it can be annoying. Invest in a a decent trap at the compressor and the one on the gun off you go.  So get what you can afford to get the car done.

It really goes south on the blast cabinet, like it will piss you off waiting for it after 3min of blasting. I am cynical after fucking around with a bunch of compressors, turns out you really need shit loads of power to squash air. When I live on a ranch Ill get a 10hp Honda petrol one and build a house for it or something.

Yeah they all cook the books on the air delivery numbers.  Usually go off power draw/motor size as basically none of them will have any magic that make the pump itself hugely more efficient than the others. The physics will dictate you need X amount of power for the piston to displace X amount of air with only a small difference in efficiency in pump designs.  The 3hp ones on 10A plugs are mostly bullshit, you really just want to buy a decent brand that needs a 15A plug. It will paint a car but run all the time, on the blast cabinet it will run all the time, run out of air completely pretty quick and piss water. So like the minimum IMO is a decent 15A compressor and it will still be annoying. You want like 10hp three phase in a ideal world.