Jase

close the gate,

id the cop and refer it to the police complaints authority,

if the neighbour has horses or stock nearby that's likely there concern ,

hit them up that you will be running in a car on a certain date and if they can move there stock.

and give them a break if my neighbour was up revving an engine till 9.15pm I'd at least be wondering what the fuck are they up to?

Age old scenario its fine if I'm making noise but you cunts better not make a peep...

install some vents along above the bottom plate between each stud or you'll rot your lining and framing out.

my shed was lined before I bought it and removed the lining to find the bottom plate was mush from the condensation off the cladding due to the lack of building paper.

terranos have an e-at switch which does same thing

put a set of coilpacks on it then , if its visible cracked an leaking its guts out it will short and miss,

I always found the series 2 coilpacks were better not the boxy square series 1 ones

Commodore or Falcon Wagon would be the go if you dont want a diesel ute. Heaps of room for parts, comfy enough and decent amount of grunt plus RWD would be better for towing over a big FWD sedan.

 

Dont get a Holden Adventra though as you cant fit a trans cooler to them apparently and its a Euro gearbox (BMW or something) so if it shits itself then $$$$$. This was coming from a friend who owned one briefly to tow his racecar but sold it and got a Hilux instead.

4l60e isn't European ?

we have an avalanche (hsv v8 adventra) tows fine just need to leave it out of D unless you're doing a fair clip as they like to step in and out of overdrive and thus gets the trans hot.

but tbh if you plan on towing bypass all this lightweight crap and buy a 6 cyclinder diesel 4x4 (cruiser or patrol) there is no substitute for cubes and curb weight when towing and most of the stuff above mentioned will not be rated ie legally to tow a car on a transport trailer

VN Computer V6 Fault Codes

V6

Code 12 - System Pass (OK)

Code 13 - Oxygen Sensor (O2)

Code 14 - Coolant temperature Sensor - Voltage Too Low

Code 15 - Coolant temperature Sensor - Voltage Too High

Code 16 - Coolant Temperature Sensor - Voltage Unstable

Code 17 - PCM Coolant Temperature Circuit

Code 19 - Throttle Position Sensor

Code 21 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Voltage Too High

Code 22 - Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - Voltage Too Low

Code 23 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) - Voltage Too High

Code 24 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)

Code 25 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) Sensor or Circuit - Voltage Too Low

Code 26 - Mass Air Temp Sensor (MAT) Sensor or Circuit - Voltage Unstable

Code 28 - Transmission Problem

Code 31 - Theft Deterrent System - Missing Signal

Code 32 - Manifold Airflow (MAF) Sensor or Circuit

Code 33 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) - Voltage Too High

Code 34 - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP) - Voltage Too Low

Code 35 - Idle Speed Error

Code 36 - Vacuum Leak

Code 41 - Crank Angle Sensor

Code 42 - Electronic Spark Timing Circuit (EST)

Code 43 - Knock Sensor Circuit

Code 44 - Oxygen Sensor Lean (O2)

Code 45 - Oxygen Sensor Rich (O2)

Code 51 - Memcal Unit - Check for bent pins

Code 52 - CALPAK Unit - Check for bent pins

Code 53 - System Over-Voltage - Alternator produced > 17.1 Volts for more than 2 seconds

Code 55 - ECM - Check ECM Grounds or excessive input voltage

so the light should flash for 1 sec for the tens then a 2 sec gap then at 1 sec intervals for 1's,

ie a twelve would be one flash 2 sec gap 2 flashes, then say a 53 would be 5 flashes a 2 sec gap then 3 flashes.

the diagnostic will spit all the logged fault codes at you so you may get a few numbers written down stop writing once you're back to the first code you wrote.

just on a side note pull the plug from your coil pack and check the female ports all grip a pin firmly, pretty common for these to loosen if the loom is pulled tight on them, also take your coilpacks off and have a good visual inspection of them as they often crack underneath giving you a short

full throttle run out by the airport on the proper track,

they don't run when an event is on obviously, so best call them if planning a Saturday.

go straight to the library grab a Haynes from the resource section and photocopy the page.

wouldn't argue that he should, didn't argue that he should,

didn't make any baseless claims just had at a stab at those that do.

 obviously the simplest way of hooking his jz's and driveline up will be to make a straight 12 through one p/glide with a big centrifugal clutch between the engines.

your rev matching issues would be minimised using the central clutch which with the correct tension could slip a little at will ,

this would lessen the downstream effects on the backengines crank shaft and with individual throttles and a high stall on the middle clutch could enable individual revving before hook up.

I can't prove the crank wouldn't snap or would theres far too many factors and variables and i'd have to go back to school to understand the maths required

Face it Jase, proof is for things people don't already know.

Face it Jase, proof is for things people don't already know.

knowledge cannot be based on assumption, it can be based on sound theory with proof, calculations and abidance to physical laws.

So impress us with your intelligence and prove it.

yeah but its an action or inaction thing i'm a thoughtful chap and i'd hate to see it go awry on or after your build .

I respect your sentiment though my neighbours wonder what i'm up to all the time

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garden shedderdore corned beef edition

Because the last crank will snap.

prove it!

It's all about how you spread the load though. Your house weighs many, many tonnes, yet is supported quite happily on a 100mm slab, because the weight is dispersed throughout the edge.

We do robotic installs where a robot needs to be anchored down to a massively thick slab, but you can work with a thinner slab if you spread the load out. If you're using a 100mm slab you simply need to make up some arms to spread the load wider to gain back the margin lost through having a thinner slab.

concur but we got piles chap, house our size 90sq is just on 15 odd tonne (mate is a house mover)

yeah well its not just punching shear i'd worry about as i'm guessing your car probably doesn't have a 50:50 weight split and get centred over its point of balance every time it goes up.

you may well find you dramatically increase the punch shear on one set of bolts and literally be torqueing the other set out if the car goes up a bit to far forward or back of its centre of balance.

if in doubt go big and as they said spread the load.

chap I know was a serviceman and certifier of these things in garages also did work for insurance companies for liability claims when dodgy installs went wrong, heard countless horror stories

vsd can be used to switch single to three phase probably cost less than getting three phase hooked in.

blow using just 100mm for a 2 post unless you have heaps of reinforcing  and have had the hardness increased on your concrete.

digging a footing and casting a big plate in there with the bolts sticking up would be the go.

shit if it goes wrong probably only one end of the car would stove the ground?

i like kpr's thoughts on the matter a tuneable manifold will increase the driveability of the vehicle which i reckon is more useful

than a lightswitch powerband due to either oem manifold constraints or poor design.

seems like a cheap mod to me that'd be worth consideration

solid works is the shit

ok now how about for diesels ? turbo ld28 has daggy factory manifold with long runners very small plenum and very small intake at one end.

I expecially like that audi design as it would convert a turbulent mass of swirling air into a sheet of uniform air to be drawn into the bell mouth and runners .

I reckon a bath analogy might work pull the plug on the bath and start scrubbing the scum off ,the water becomes waves with uneven flow going down the plug, put a board across the plug end with a gap underneath and even though theres turbulence in one end the flow will be even at the plug.

the pressure drop from the small intake runner through to the main plenum through the slot would likely give the air a very standardised turbulence and density as it enters the main plenum.

i'd love to see a smoke cutaway video of that working

question regarding modified suspension pickup points and rust repair on chassis.

landrover has some thin tin in the rear of the the rails a couple bits at thee front and at the bottom of the front cab outriggers.

I've cut the shit out and have been plating with 3mm steel (standard 2.5mm) plug welded plates inside rail to support all repairs

will this require a repair cert from a panelbeater? the only obvious repair is the replaced rear x member (brand new).

next question putting 70 series diffs and suspension under it can I remove the factory pickup points and weld or squash tube/bolt on the cruiser ones ? having 6mm u plates folded up to slip over the chassis which I'm going to weld and gusset the factory cruiser mounts to?

factory hand brake is on the drive shaft can the cruiser diffs handbrake assembly be utilised as fiddle brakes with the levers removed for road use?

I got a bosch one that I pulled from a mates workshop bin about 10 years ago,

no variable speed but is very handy.

was ment to have run a bearing still goes great although I use it maybe once a month

I have a couple holset hx55's on the shelf find something to spool them and they'll make some power.

whats the fastest diesel currently in nz,

a patrol a big turbo and a powerglide through a transfer box to all four grippers appeals to me,

then you can strap dirt tires on and have a lash at all manner of shit,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zA8ZSqMz1Ag

Suzuki carry van, mid mounted 5 cylinder audi turbo motor plus auto transaxle,

wheelie bars and a high stall

weld

jbweld

can anyone point me towards a interchangeability register,

I have a gen1 lwb pajero with the low gearing,

I want an lsd for the front and rear looking at all the cheap lsd's wondering if they'll fit,

have heard starion 8" but what about gto etc etc