Jase

theres a 4 door up north I know of that has been sitting a few years likely get it for cheap.

already cobalt blue with white turbos,

first step is buy a Haynes though very first investment regardless

+ 1 for Simple Green,

will take burnout off concrete its pretty sweet shit

should have been on A class rego if you were doing work for wof,

council has reimbursed me for a wof fine when I pointed out it was legally allowed to be on the road

outside a repairers workshop with its A reg and no wof.

I also sent them a letter explaining that I could not afford to pay an unjust fine and that legal aid to fight it would cost all taxpayers.

Then politely asked them to look into the legitimacy of fining a vehicle that was correctly registered without a wof.(my interpretation vs. their interpretation)

I received a letter back a week later saying my fine had been waived due to the correct registration being in displayed.

Bad news for you is pay the fines or plead broke $1 a week

yeah cheers fella you're a star.

as far as cage design goes ,

will they be looking for engineering calcs to prove point load ratings for the belts?

or will plenty of overkill and triangulation suffice.

was planning on using heavy wall steam tube and bends where possible and then my hydraulic bender for the main hoops and larger radius stuff

cheers clint ,

would an external cage be acceptable ,

as wearing a helmet day in day out would be annoying.

tbh it was on the list anyway although I'd failed to add it

hey clint,

I have a certed 88" ld28 s2a chassis/truck with a rotten chassis,

I'd like to put 109" chassis under all the bits I have,

the list

ld28 + t

dual mq safari boxes

safari diffs on std lr leaf springs (parabolic conversion)

station wagon to truck cab conversion

12v tipper deck

big tires

my question is mainly based around the swb to lwb conversion of the chassis as upon recert I don't want to be stonewalled due to the swap as it would no longer be the original chassis although it would have been a factory delivered option to choose chassis length at point of sale?

any thoughts?

I dropped two inchs out of the base cushion in my first one ,

which snugged you back into the seat ,

I'm 5 inches shorter but was goin to fit low back buckets in this one,

if you get a relatively upright seat they work well (I had a jaz seat in for mockup)

and over driven gears that tend to get a hard time,

big picture I'd like to keep my breakages limited so I will start with the truck running open diffs,

obviously crawling spots are a bit limited up here unless I go play in a quarry or river bed,

if it fails to perform i'll head to lsds and chromoly cv's.

how about running the overrun coupler between them?

back box will have no clutch and still be being driven along with input and gearset by the driveshaft whilst underway so an ability to free wheel when the shafts speeds are mismatched seems a good idea,

obviously reverse would need to be selected from the back box as the coupler would free spool if it was selected on the front one.

pretty sure the truck setup was a direct coupling but the gearsets and shafts and strength concerned was somewhat increased over these little bus boxes

yep understand that kk,

ld28t then mq boxes no overdriven ratios ie 4 speeds up to mq diffs.

axle strength and cv strength is fairly robust with these so only a true tough hookup of a tire would

see an axle break and sticking to lsds over lockers will give stored energy an out.

plus I reckon George would approve

its purpose in life will be to be a landy like no other chap,

will have 35's an the 12volt tipper I was saving for my ute.

so firewood collection, rock crawling, trailer towing and commuting to work.

not really to much of a fuck around actually far simpler to do than twin transfer cases.

its an idea i've had dormant since driving those trucks I suppose and driving the mt moka track in a landcruiser on my honeymoon with too taller crawl ratio highlighted it.

If you've ever been up there its just over towards Cromwell off the thompsons road track,

very rocky very steep and very off camber in a top heavy rental camper landcruiser.

1st in lowbox felt downright freakin horrible especially when it was cocking a leg up some of the steps and ledges.

So I'm getting old and I'd like to go slower ok?

given the weather holds out and reece's last 5.2 on the bumpy track ,
its fairly safe to say a 4 could happen,
pretty amazing seeing a guy absolutely pedal the car

if you watch the vid closely you can see him get in and out of the throttle to maintain traction

little rover is getting a safari driveline with a difference,

more gears,

another 4 speed will be sitting infront of the other that has the transfer case attached,

remembering the trucks at the limeworks had super high crawl ratios but were a bit thought provoking to shift with two 4 spd boxes also, I wonder whether an overrun coupler between the boxes would alleviate some of those issues.

thoughts please truckers

yeah set here still have rusty discs on them,

all yours come grab them when suits you, about beer o'clock might be an option.

pretty sure I have some here Nathan,

not too sure how good they'll be been in a box for the last ten years

I go check now

that's a bust then I reckon one of those carriers would be easy enough to build .

has anyone seen a double one ? (rmz450+kx80)

my trailer got pinched so looking at options before I build another

depends on the grade and build of it chap,

seamless?

I've buckled the front shaft on the tractor when I managed to snag a stump in the bush,

I put a bit of scaffold tube in the gap as an interim measure,

it worked although most likely being out of balance and suffering some bush arc welding to hold it all together.

it was still in place when I left and lasted silage season with a big tandem behind it.

pays to remove the universals before welding too or they seem to fail pretty rapidly.

Wouldn't suggest doing anything similar with a road vehicle, last one I did was through atl in Hamilton,

they were handy enough to add grease nipples on the joints as well as balance it .

the needle needs to be nearly sealed at idle i've found,

then as you roll the throttle open you get an evenly atomised mix of fuel and air heading into the chamber.

I started with mine on the top circlip then worked back.

what size is that rear tyre 18 or 19? I have a new Dunlop 19 here you can have for a box of speights.

maybe that jet is a little big hows the plug look after a ride?

charge the battery,

drain the tank and put in fresh fuel,

ensure all the carb boots are intact and not cracked and leaking air.

my guess is you might have a bung stator and an easy way to check is jump it off a car and see if it idles.

also if its been struggling to idle the plugs could be pretty fouled up and in need of replacement.

I went colder on the plug side when my cbr 600 stator started to pack up so I could get a longer ride out of each battery charge along with run starting it which was humourous to watch I'm sure.

oh yeah and if you do buy it for stator ad parts bank on $500 at least so low ball him

looks like fun? did you drop a gear ? heard a crunch/rattle clunk midway in?

you'll be fine without the compensator imo,

I have an ld28 or two running the ve pump and a manual here if you want to adjust rebuild or time the thing.

buy a few tools an extinguisher and a first aid kit to live in your car,

also if its a 4x4 a small shovel can move enough dirt to smother an oil fire before it gets out of hand if you have none of the above,

it also helps if you get stuck.

and you rock for getting the battery unhooked first,

they're nasty when they explode and it shuts down all the electrical hot points in the car instantly.

what do you reckon it'll cost you, thinking of buying a section at the beach and making a container bach,

friends of ours have a very similar set up at waitomo except ply lined internally and a little more retro

I'm looking to take my spare ld28 cam in for a regrind to suit running a turbo a little more and to move the torque curve towards the low end.

the ld28 we run in the bush truck absolutely hisses at 4500-5300 but doesn't really do much till then.

I'm guessing its a combination of a camshaft profile more suited to a road car with no turbo along with possibly the pump timing being a little out.

Now tell me if I'm correct in my reasoning if we can get more duration on the cam it will induce a little more air which should help with the spool up,

along with a little more lift to make the airs path a little easier.

Not forgetting that more air means we run more fuel to keep the engine from leaning out and making piss all power.

Anyone delved into this with something to add?

like camping?^

I wonder how bad the vibration/harmonics would be with fully balanced everything?

as they say the modified I had a couple laps probably killed my kids for a month yet that was a modified running on dirt.