Jase

l series petrol and diesel flywheels are different depths i've found,

only since bolting an ld to an l28 patrol gearbox,

the ultimate box would be from an mq safari lwb with divorced transfer,

as they are a 4 spd bus box essentially and the Bedford won't put too much strain on it

the brass copper combo is more ductile than the alloy,

so other than being better at heat transfer it can also expand and contract more readily than the alloy with each heat cycle.

you will also notice some alloy rads have the tubes bowed in the core so that with expansion and  contraction of the tube it is not ripped from the end tanks.

a lot of the trademe ali jobs suffer from cracking of that nature

concur^ you'll find with lsd front an rear it'll walk everywhere, even better with an auto locker rear an lsd  front so its not too piggish to steer if its a daily

when you look at the bike they came from can you work out how much airflow it was consuming and the airspeed it was generating at idle to drag the air in at idle past the fuel to get efficient mixing.

eg 1200cc bike will consume 600cc of air per revolution of the crank, at 1000rpm its going to consume 10000cc of air per second or

21.1888cfm - which would be 255cfm @ 12000rpm

so then your 2000cc car will consume 1000cc of air per revolution , at 1000rpm its consuming 1000000cc/s or 35.315cfm- or 282cfm @8000rpm

now from what I can remember most flatslides run a venturi to spray the fuel up from the jet when the needle is lifted,

maybe this needs to be resized to match the increased airflow demanded of the carbs and also the increased volume of fuel from the jets required to achieve the correct mix for the larger engine.

Also of note is most bike carbs run with an airbox extremely well, the airbox's I've seen always  have relatively small inlets,

could the small inlet be aiding and increasing airspeed down each carb through its restriction.

Also watching your vid could the airflow from your fan be disturbing/upsetting the carbs?

as normally they'd draw a relatively undisturbed supply from the airbox only really effected by inlet pulse up and down the airbox and supply and demand variation due to throttle opening

its not over full?

as that'll froth the oil up and drop pressure as the pump picks up air laden oil.

haha look at the date on the post Nathan,

it had a rover v8 in it back then.... everything's in its place and there's a place for everything

haha wicked wonder if that were an ambulance or some such thing?

I did the same went drum to b2000 discs ,

then I had some b2000 stubs modified to flip the bottom balljoint.

the stubs got the bottom taper milled out then a stepped bush with the new taper got pressed in.

it sees the lower a arm sit flat and would remove catseyes with the x member.

those stubs are shelved as the ute wouldn't get out the driveway on them.

make an offer if you want them,

I'm looking at ordering a water to air for the daily so any extra funds would be handy

seemed to have solved it,

fuel cut solenoid or idle up solenoid was still getting power after ignition off,

unplugged that and went for a ten minute drive along with a quarter turn out on the mixture screw and its gravy.

cheers chap bloody butchered together ford

so my little truck likes to diesel itself ,

it idles smooth at 1000rpm when warm,

timing was set with a light at 12deg before tdc with vac advance unplugged,

vacuum sits at a steady 500mmHg at idle and drops off as it should.

it runs like it should but runs on at shut down?

it doesn't pink on acceleration and does smell a bit fumey could the rich mix be leaving a pool of gas in

the intake?

the carb does have what seems to be a fuel cut solenoid which I have checked but will double check the circuit powers down with the ignition off.

it did have one blocked idle air supply jet which once fixed sorted a high idle issue it had.

any thoughts?

hey tom you buy that sfi from jegs?

I have two glides here one which is already a two piece case and built for a bit it got a big block pattern bell though

so looking to match to ls

did you buy the ls to glide one or the other?

for 1.5mm to 3mm a side heat with blue crescent till bright amber whilst clamped in a press ,

then pump it down nice and level with a block say 10mm off your clamping block.

should be able to get a nice little side shift in the plate whilst keeping it parallel easily with correct setup.

ie that is run a bit of 1.5-3mm plate on the underside of the material  where it is clamped leaving a 3mm gap for the steel to be shifted

I have an old pajero tow point dynabolted to the floor in my shed for this reason,

you can run a snatch block and cable  under the bus and tow it in with another car.

without knowing where it nipped you're pretty much poking in the dark.

or just put 50psi in the tyres get some chaps to give you a push/insert buick v6

every piece of string is exactly twice as long as half its length.

factory gauges are shit so might as well do a pressure check on the cooling system ,

check for bubbles in the radiator when running with the cap off (good indicator of blown head gasket)

check thermostat opens at correct temp in a pot on the stove

between the unemployed and a nine to fivers, i do shifts so could maybe help,

not to fussed about payment just let me know when it needs doin as in the rei for pops funeral next couple days

uterus is correct in the sense that the pump doesn't restrict boost at all,

other than failing to supply adequate fuelling to get the combustion to a level where the turbo is at its most efficient.

more fuel will give higher egts and egts over a certain point will eat pistons rods blocks,

diesel can be somewhat counterintuitive to a petrol head where a rich mix is safe for petrol it is the opposite for diesel,

run lean with a diesel and you will be down on power but the egts stay very low.

get an auberin egt gauge in there and have a look at your temps before you tune.

certain engines won't handle high egts (1hz etc) due to thin piston crowns

yeah does wildplumdx still hang about I'd like to borrow that timing gauge for my ve pumps,

you want more boost add more fuel chap,

pay to get an egt gauge first though

yeah donkey or pony motor, remembers d8h and d8k starts from my early childhood,

oh and pops smashing a new 30T digger on fire into the settlement pond with uncle john onboard

drott

cut down redrilled axle flanges would be a good start,

if an axles out the shafts are quite beefy and 30 spline,

also the driveshaft flange only comes in a couple of styles,

post a photo of the top of the head I have a few here to compare with

scribbulon aka sexychevette incarnate/ probably just old heads will get that

since when is anyone sensible on here,

I've poured thousands into $1000 dollar vehicles for years.

its a great way to pass the time.

do what floats your boat young chap and don't let anyone tell you your interests should be different.

originality comes from those with the willingness to be different and follow up there ideas.

unless you want to carbon copy the latest trend?

yeah Nathan you forget he's a young chap,

studying flatting an living off a student allowance is pretty tight on the money side,

depending on his commute distance a turbo diesel could be quite viable,

it isn't common to see diesel swaps here into passenger vehicles but it does make good sense

especially as a first swap.

not too many pitfalls with wiring (glo plug relays etc)

plumbings fairly simple

and engines not going to be too big for the hole,

brakes may need a little upgrade (pads/rotors)

also insurable for a young fella.

A first engine swap should be easy, make mounts plumb it wire it, get a driveshaft made,

cert it and go.

Otherwise you'll spend the next ten years looking at the thing in the shed like me

if fuel consumption is a concern,

how about a hearty turbo diesel with some pump mods,

obviously its not a common swap but I have a ford courier 2.2 diesel and 4 spd

that would work well.

keeps it in the family and with a little extra plumbing for a fuel heater it could be run on chip oil or black diesel

different car, one I know of could likely be had for a couple hundred.

have you considered a rotary swap?

a little ported up 12a or 13b would kick an escort along fine.

annoy the neighbours etc.