EFI_LC

My advice is try and get a 2nd hand Yella Terra.

Don't buy extractors or carb til the head is sorted or you will always be behind the 8 ball as it need to breath.

The heads are not great stock but they are easy to modify if you cant find something.

They have a big lump of metal in the inlet that needs to be remove and dowelled plus if you really want more hp then bigger inlet valves and unshroud them.

Then match that with the carburation and extractors.

The main reason I say wait til the head is done before buying as if you cant find something or want to pay for the work on the head then a Blue/black head will flow as good as a modified head and the black motor has more capable 2-barrel manifold.

Oh Yea.......

IT'S ALIVE!!

Started and running but when I connect the MAF it runs a bit shit and laggy, maybe its a 6 cylinder one?

Might have to try and find a 4 cylinder one to try.

I still have a bit of work like connect dials and dash, OBD2 to check errors. Bleed brakes and clutch, hook up accelerator, put the seat in, Fuel regulator and pump sort of works ok.

Thanks kpr and Raizer, I will turn it around and test tonight and update.

As I don't have a alternator, tacho or any gauges hooked up yet, the 2500rpm was only a guess so it may be lower  

If it's backwards that might be an easy fix I put it so that the wider area was at the front? The engine dies with it on.

After all this it is getting very close now, the MAF I have won't work as if it is plugged in it wont run.???

With it out it will rev to maybe 2500rpm max

It's ok it fired, so now I need to regulate the fuel.

My fault as I pulled {P} plug slightly out of the ECU last night to make easier than pulling out and back in all the time and yup you guessed it!!

Watch this space and thanks for the quick response mate

Ok so the power is up to the ecu, fuel, injectors and coils but i don't have spark.

Any hints?

Well power is up to the computer, fuel pumps, injectors and coils but when turning it over wouldn't fire.

A bit unsure and likely nee some help from someone who has been here before me.

Any local wanting to help I will pass them a carton of their choice or any advice on what could be stopping it would be great.

Remaining unknowns, O2 sensor not hooked up as unsure which goes where, does the gearbox need anything as it was already connected vacuum ?

g

I have been checking it out and now understand what you were talking about

As I have the TRD Fairing I can handle a wider track, I do have a question though.

It will put more load on the Starlet bearing with an outside disc so can it handle it racing?

Could I fit a big disc and calliper on 13" rims as I can get used race slicks for 13's,

If not I do have a set of 15x6 4 stud rims now as I figured I would need bigger rims to fit over the callipers/discs and even 16x8 but would need to restud to 5

So assuming I have Starlet legs, replacing the current brakes with bluebird ones like the link or I could get some cheap Hilux ones would be be great.

I also assume I could fit any calipers as long as I made a bracket and they matched the caliper width?

Will the KP60 master cylinder be up to it or should I look for something else and maybe remove the booster?

Hilux sounds like a good option, much in this?

Thanks, good info and good variety

Hi I am sure this has been talked about but I have been browsing around and can't seem to find the info I need.

I want some decent stopping power, so what is an easy but powerful alternative that will fit with 15" rims.

If there is a descriptive guide on how would be great too.

I want to add camber plates as well at some point which may mean altering the Tower to give more as it's a race car only. Whats the opinion here? 

The old Landrovers earned respect from it's owners usually by the way it got through, up or over some seriously bad shit. The 4 cylinder engine was built strong although under powered but thats what the gearbox was for.

I went to work in the oldest one everyday as a teenager when I worked on the NCNTB and then a few years later joined the NZED and carried on going to work in a much later version which was virtually the same inside.

The NCNTB Series 1 engine was worn badly as it it was used off road more than on and instead of pulling the engine out and rebuilding it they used piston sealer, 6 months or a year later it was still running strong.

We played a prank on one of the other gangs a dead eel in the tool box where it wasn't discovered until many days later.... the dreaded smell was coming from the tool box which was under one of the front seats.

I am pretty sure that if the bog isn't completely dry/hard then moisture can cause bubbles

My first was a Green 1952 Chevrolet Deluxe running a 1955 Blue Flame with 3 on the tree and RHD. It cost me $80 full price.

I remember now that I am looking at the placement of the gear lever and as the one with the gearlever was behind the VK engine I bought, I assume thats the M76 VK 6 and the other is the 4 cylinder starfire one??

Another slight change I see the bulge in front of the gear lever the little peice on the side is opposite way around too

Where are you efi_lc I'm interested

Spreydon, Christchurch

I actually have 2 5-speeds in my garage, from memory one is the one stuck in 3rd and another come from a VK which I think was behind the engine I rebuilt into a 12 second engine.

Take the both away for $50 no guarantees as I never used the 'good?' one.

How do you know which Holden 5 speeds are the best ones to get

I wish I knew that one but I was told I had the crap one one when I bought my Torana and I drove it up from Invercargill and then 2 weeks later it locked in 3rd gear.

The VK M76 is ok but 2nd gear gets a hammering so add that into a heavy car and it usually spells trouble. In a small LC or LJ you may get away with it for ages.

I used to live on these roads as I loved them so much and knew every bump when I was younger, it changed from the old to cut out heaps of the old corners to make one heck of a road.

1.The triangle Inangahua Junction - Murchison turnoff - Springs Junction

2. Buller Gorge, both lower and upper

3. Hanmer Turn off to Westport

(Cruising towards Springs Junction up the Rahu Saddle.)

Likely either inner cable or stripped gear

I have a w55 with holden bellhousing on it waiting for an offer that isn't insulting.

Some of the 6 cylnder Holden 5-speeds are shit and the others are a little better.

Depending on how you drive, the Holden 4 speed is strong enough but if you abuse them they break. I did over 800 1/4 mile runs with an $80 secondhand M20 with a worked 202 and it was still in the car when I sold it.

The diffs are fragile as well in the older cars and you are likely to break 2 diffs for every gearbox

Been a bit slow lately as injured my elbow and can hardly use my left arm

finished putting the radiator in and made some hoses up and connected it all but found a small problem with the throttle body which has water running into it. 

I thought the hose underneath was a vacuum as the neck was broken when i bought the engine but it was actually for water and is part a valve or something??

I was hoping I don't need it but guessing It may cause some indifferent tune affect?

Anyway I have decided on a total overkill and I am shopping for a Hilux diff to go with the Hilux LSD I have, I have asked a mate who has mates with bits and pieces and hopefully they will come up with something.

Once I have that then I can work out the measurements I need make a fully adjustable rear.

This will possibly extend the build and push the budget but I will try and build everything I can.

Couple of setbacks but getting closer now.

Hot days slowing me down as the garage is damn hot on some of those 30+ days.

I cut the old 12a manifold in 2 which had the exact size exhaust I needed shaped and welded it and made sure its flush then 2 into 1, it may not be the prettiest but it works. Just need to add the o2 sensor.

Straight pipe from the bend up to the manifold and to make room it made sense to cut through the rear foot well which will never be used again. 

This has a tunnel over the exhaust now.

Picked up a complete manual loom with ODB II so I can check for errors etc.

Radiator is in, reverse mounted a fan, just need hoses

Checking and started labeling the obvious parts of the loom

Well I have the engine and gearbox mounted in the car, I used a copper u for the rear hoses.

I have a quick release steering wheel now as well.

I bought a small surge tank and I have a pickup pump and an inline high pressure pump already, just need some high pressure hose. and bolt it all together with a filter. This will take a bit of time and I will drop the tank out to make sure it's clean.

The driveshaft will be dropped into Circle Track tomorrow I hope.

The radiator is a later model Corolla and fits snug, I plan on reversing a couple of fans and front mount them.

I also checked the rear springs and they have been cut so low that when i jacked the car up I could pull them out, I think I make have to talk to my mate as to what I need before I go racing.

I made an exhaust flange from the rotary flange cut it in half, shaped it and welded it up banged a couple of holes in it and then made a shorter 2-into-1 single 2.5", I still need to put the o2 sensor mount in it.

Plenty of other items to do as well but I ran out of Co2 for the MIG and the bottle needed to be tested so this has slowed me down a bit 

Awesome info, I will be looking at this carefully. Thanks mate.