EFI_LC

Thanks for that people, I guess a co2 gauge can be got from them as well...

Who supplies MIG Co2 Bottles in Christchurch for either buy or rent?

Prices... any info be great.

Only need a 5kg or even a 3kg would do 

Cheers

Trailer all finished and wof and rego. Since these pics I added a few things like tie down rails underneath, spring locks and a couple of pins to hold the ramps in place.

I have now started on my Narrowed Estima Diff with Nissan GT Brakes.

Choice, work. Yea that's my thinking of the F axles. I will do some measurements on the weekend 

I know a little bit about Toyota axles ... I've cut and resplined heaps of them. I have not done an F type one but I've seen them before. I'm currently trying to get rid of 4 x F type diffs on TM for next to nothing. Those F series axles are skinny little fuckers aye ... 27 splines I think last time I counted. I was going to get into narrowing them but i have enuff trouble keeping up with Hilux and Ford ones than to be going dipping into other types. Re the steps in OEM axles, they are all case harded ..harded?? Hardened. Another name for this is Induction harded' The hardening depth is pretty consistent on a OEM axle meaning - it follows the contour of the axle. if the axle has a series of steps along its length, then the profile depth of case harded' (lol!) steel will mimic said steps. I've got pretty rigid (older) gear and some makes/brands of axles cut like butter. Other stuff like Nissssan are big munty hard as fuck lengths of iron that give my gear a workout.  

I have a bit of knowledge in hardening but not with axles.

Unsure but could the estima run out of hardened material?

I plan on making the diff about 50-60mm wider than the starlet to help with modern offsets and larger wheels 

I like your pics on TM btw. An Engineering shop here will weld fatter axles and I will find out

I reckon I could get past the step but if I do who does them and I have heard that toyota axles are hardened which is the outside and not sure how deep it goes and they are quite big steps, will it make them soft. I don't want to spend money on that to last 6 races.

I am pleased to hear about the Torsen good track work as I have one sitting next to the estima diff. cost $330 all up.

I plan to run Nissan gt rear brakes and Nissan 280mm 4-pots on the front

I may have to do a bit of cutting out the back of the old girl and remount with coilovers and watts linkage or the easier option panhard rod.

I have a lot of designing to do over winter

Bumping an old thread but i has some awesome good info and it is relevant to what I want to do.

I want to shorten an F Estima and throw in an LSD

I thought I might try an Altezza Torsen as starters and it might actually teach me how not to spin the back wheels while I save for a better diff, what I would like to know, am I dumb or what?

Best way or person to narrow a diff in Christchurch?

Best way to shorten the axles, welding I hear is ok for axles this size, what price to spline or will they be too soft?

Any info much appreciated.

Oh it,s all going into my Starezza as I have decided to build a better doff and throw some decent stoppers into it before my track launch

Just get a aircooled VW mayte. Don't have to worry about that electrolysis or mixing coolant.

 

/ling

Just a shame that a VW is about as much fun as a fart in an elevator

My new one for my Starlet just left China. Fingers Crossed

I ran out of Gas this morning so couldn't finish the Trailer this weekend although I have other things to do at least.

This shows the boards I will use I am putting 2 bolts in each then drill all the holes ready as I can't put them on until I have finished with the tilt points. The Tilt points are a back arm from a VN Commodore cut and grafted. I made a couple of boxes to weld onto a cross brace which will have gussets, when in the down position it will lock with a couple of spring loaded pins. 

I broke my diff a couple of times til I replaced it with a Hilux and always said that the lack of tires are what saved my gearbox but I also knew I could drop the clutch doing 20mph in 2nd and lay some rubber whenever I wanted  

You need to choose your balance for what you want to use the car for and you are the best to know this. I did over 1000 drag races and thats why I went with a Hilux

I am going to use some builders scaffold planks recessedfor the car to sit on.

I will also tilt it using some old Holden Suspension arms, then the lights I got off the old trailer, I picker up a Jockey wheel from Supercheap, I also grabbed a 3000lb electric winch just in case and I have a transporter for under $1k. 

Steel was less than $400 

Hub kit was $109

Winch $87

Wheels free, and I have spares

Donor Trailer $150 (Lights, axle(used the drawbar), springs, coupling and wiring)

Planks $44 x 3 = $132

Bolts to hold the planks $25

Channel Iron for under the Planks $18 from the scrap merchant.

Tilt mechanism free

Gas and wire for the MIG

Still got a bit to go but I reckon it should be worth 3 times that when I paint it up

Check below out before buying anything after market as it may do your requirements, it can be used to turn any error codes off as well as remove VATS, change Speedo to match Drive Ratios and Tune the engine. About NZ$300 landed and you need a USB to OBD2. The 4L60E can also be adjusted to your desired liking. No sense in re-inventing the wheel with an expensive after-market ECU when the Holden/GM one had millions spent on it's development and then they released the code, it can also run Superchargers, Turbos, 4's, 6's and 8's of any make if you really wanted.

http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=655

Have you turned the Anti-theft off?

If no then you may have a bigger wiring job on your hands depending on which model. I assume when you say Holden EFI V8 it is the 304?

I reckon splice it in, test replace as needed?

And then the other part of the Project was a Trailer....

I have a Donor for Springs, lights, couplings and few other things, I was going to use the axle and hubs but as its Ford Pattern I decided not to and bought brand new HQ Hubs as I have heaps of wheels here. 

It will tip amd double up as somewhere to work on the underneath of any cars.

Ah of course the ECU power feed needs to bypass the Main cut switch. Oops forgot about that one.

I think I will run a wire direct with a off/on switch and label it... Do Not turn off unless removing Battery.

Who or Where did you get yours done?

The re-drilling axles was done at a local engineering shop.

The diff had all the Hilux connect points removed and Torana ones welded on, (Hilux are all steel casings, not cast list some diffs).

Rare Spare has a Jig for Torana but if you are handy with a welder you could knock one up using your old Capri one as a template.

The rest was done by me and a mate, because it was a narrow diff from a very old Hilux it never needed narrowing. I used a commodore offset and it worked fine.

I am going to do another in my Starlet to future proof the next upgrade.

I did a Hilux in my Torana 202 and never had to worry about the diff again. I recommend them

The 3.9 ratio gears came from a hiace with the little wheels on the rear. 

The LSD came from a Supra Turbo and 

The housing was out of an early Hilux RN25

The brakes were Hiace and re-drilled to Commodore Pattern.

The parts are cheap and they are near indestructible 

Getting close now although my test today in the driveway shows the diff is a problem.

It is twisting severely when I put power down and it pushes the front up so high it hits the underside of the tunnel.

I will be pulling the arms off and replacing them.

My Mate Alan, I can't say enough about this guy, he has never wired up anything like this and he has come through. We hope to have it fully wired and running on the alternator by next weekend.

Try this for OBD2 readers, works on my redtop engine.

 

http://www.mr2.com/forums/threads/92691-Working-OBD2-on-jdm-ecu!

Actually I have the free trial of that one and another that works is OBD2 Car Doctor (Android)

I will likely try a few others but the thing I liked about Torque (Free) was yu cab do your own layout of not just dials but other widgets as well.

Thanks for the tip again Roman

The problem I have is that the O2 sensors dont read in most.... so i am not sure if i have it working or not yet

What year ECU are you using? Altezza's are one of those naughty cars that had a 16pin DLC connector, which is used for the OBDII standard, but werent actually ODBII compliant for a couple of years. You might have issues getting generic readers to work on them. If your ECU is a later one though, it should work sweet.

 

Also, Altezza's used a proprietary networking system to communicate between some of the modules in the car, known as 'Body Electronic Area Network', B.E.A.N. The gauge cluster talks on this network, and gets a few signals from it, like the coolant temp, and fuel level warning info. You'll find your fuel warning light will most likely come on in the dash, regardless of the actual fuel level. This is a warning light from the cluster telling you it's not receiving some data it's expecting. Best bet is to remove the bulb, and remember to fill it up . Make sure you hook up the 'MPX+' and 'MPX-' wires. It's actually a ring-bus network, so you don't technically need both wires if you've only got two devices on the network, but it adds redundancy.

 

My final year project for my engineering degree ended up being all about B.E.A.N, and is used by Link Electronics in their Altezza plugin ECU.

No idea what year it is.

I will decide on the dash after I get the OBD2 working as if it works out I will use it to run a dash.

I still want some wiring to the onboard gauges though, Thanks for the info as it may come in handy

I remember when people used to use their pets names for the owner to dodge parking fines.... I think thats when they last changed the ownership requirements.

Congrats on getting it going!

 

Your making great progress.

 

I have a couple of OBD2 readers set up to read the altezza ecu (using android app), but I haven't been able to get them to work on my car (couple of cut obd2 wires may be the issue, or the readers themselves) but theoretically they should work on a good loom. Your welcome to try them, just send me a pm if your interested.

Thanks to everyone that helped here, it actually turned out straight forward to to hook it up but only if you work out the wiring from the various diagrams.

My mate who wired it said he couldn't have done it without having the interior loom as a couple of wires were not as they appeared and the o2 sensor is a bit of a pot luck as it could be 1 of 3 brands, I have a Nippon Denso model which until we hook up the OBD2 aren't sure if it's working correct.

I have isolated the OBD2 wires and they run to one of the fuse boxes and interesting which I hope may not be needed is that from the connector 1 wire runs back to the Body Module which I am not running. i am hoping it reports on cabin type info and not anything important.

OLDSCHOOL FORUM yet again gets 2 thumbs up - great forum and even better people. 

It runs as it should tonight thanks to Pe-arce as he came up trumps for the missing pieces. I will do some tests as not sure what piece was wrong but the new pipe and MAF works a treat and it revs out now.

Next:

Alternator wired in

Wire in OBD2 - Stripped out of the internal loom

Rewire everything into the car as currently running wires out the door to the ECU

Diff replacement + Driveshaft

Tidy up everything.

Then build a trailer.

pe-arce.... Hell yea, I will flick you a PM