EFI_LC

Cheers, will do that.

scumbags.... Sorry to hear mate. hit the forums an social media

There already is an oil pressure sensor. Down in the sump near oil filter. So id assume you could unscrew that and replace it.

What do you mean by mechanical gauges? seems easiest to me to use whats there already.

I have mechanical gauges on the dash and even though the electronic ones will let the computer read them I really don't want to install the Altezza dash in the race car.

At least that helps me find the oil one and I will likely make an adapter so I can have both, just hope the water temp is not n the back.

I might make the track or at least a test drive somewhere this month.

The 202 or in this case 3.3's really respond to small things well as they are a very under-stressed engines.

The EST was there to lock the ignition and stop people putting too much advance into the engines to counter the lack of low end power, it really was a shit bit of kit while they waited for the RB engines and the V6 to arrive.

I too have gone with a  VH dizzy in my VK and immediately it pulls a lot better at lower revs.

I also used one in my quick LC and it was mated to a twin coil setup which gave it excellent spark to over 7000rpm. To produce decent power in these old irons the compression needs to be raised but even without that doing the things mentioned in earlier posts all helps. 

I hope you get to do some mods and look forward to hearing how it goes.

Hi, can anyone tell me the best place or way to install 2 mechanical gauges for water and oil pressure in my Altezza motor?

12.9@106mph, 2.0 60ft, Ruapuna, 202ci Torana 4-speed manual - 205x14 Bridgestone

N/A street car - Once I drove to Nelson from Christchurch ran 13.3's@103mph all day then drove home afterwards..

1:57 Ruapuna Circuit in a stock Nissan RB20e R33 4-door

12 Second run - max mph for the days was 107mph

More work completed in between other things, I am getting ready to test drive soon, I may need to make some clearance around the front of the diff as its tight in the tunnel.

Things to do:

Finish wiring in switches and kill switch

Plumb gauges if I can

Bleed the brakes

Check diff and gearbox oil and radiator levels

Wire the electric fan

Remount Seat

Buy and mount Belts

Mount fire extinguisher

Hang fuel line from rear to front.

Check clearance of sump on the cross member.

Sort wheels and offset and clearances on guards

Driveshaft hoop

Make spacers for the suspension arms and setup

Tighten the diff and suspension bolts etc.

Paint and tidy the body and wash.

Remount the rebuilt rear calipers 

Make a Handbrake set up

Finish hanging the exhaust (needs a front mount)

Check for any holes in the firewall and floor and weld up.

And I am sure I have a few other minor things to do but if the test drive in my driveway goes ok I will be wanting to take it for a test sometime.

I was held up working on this full time as real life gets in the way like trips away and going to Drag Racing, Circuit Racing, and all the other stuff, but I am now making a push to finish. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1267176186641889.1073741898.612338512125663&type=3

I had never finished the diff as I had no room for the single top arm and I made a temporary setup but I am now putting them through the wheel wells and they can then mount on the roll cage base plate where I can brace the front mount to the cage. I have oodles of room in there as the wheels are pushed out wider.

The wiring under the bonnet is now done and the engine runs on its alternator now and has an Evo 4 Alloy radiator.

Rear disc brakes are done and plumbed and can still just fit the 13's on the rear. Once I fit the GTR fronts I will need to run 15's

A couple of things arrived yesterday and I put the dizzy on just before and an immediate difference to the responsiveness of the engine.

I never even changed the Dizzy cap

It pulls clean from low revs and pulls harder in the mid-range.

My intentions are to pull the engine out Nov or Dec and do the Cam, Lifters and internal engine clean.

Then put the 600 Holley on and flows and build an exhaust,

Then next, lighten the flywheel and match the clutch for the W55 box. 

I need someone to turn up a brass spigot and that should do that.

Nice Wagon, '66?

I went to this one year, stayed at Cromwell and visited highlands as well. Great day out

Well, after 2 previous attempts to un-BMW myself I finally succeeded and now have something to replace it as my daily until I get my VK to where I am happy with it.

It is a manual 1995 Nissan Skyline HR33 GTS – 2.0 L RB20E SOHC boastng a tire shredding130 PS (96 kW@5600, 172 Nm@4400).

To say it is under powered is an under statement but then I never bought it for that as it is a daily, it does have a nice sounding sound system at and starts and runs and air con works etc. Compared to my carby VK Commodore it feels slower but it has more torque 86 kW @ 4200, 232 Nm @ 2400 and you wouldn't gain by revving over about 4600, where the Nissan starts power at about 4200-6000 the Holden has power at 1800-4000.

Now I though maybe if I got bored and didn't mind getting passed down the straight by every car in the field I could run 2k cup so took it out to the track and couldn't even keep up with a stock 96 Sentra down the straight but in the corners it had the typical skyline style handling although it definitely needs more camber and maybe a toe adjustment.

Ruapuna lap in 1:57 which would place me in the back 10 of a big 2k cup field.

Will I change the engine to a bigger one.... I doubt it but I am likely to make some upgrades but not sure what. VK is first cab on the rank for an upgrade after I finish the Starlet but after that......

What are your thoughts of what would you would do?

Finally can add to this.

Ruapuna Normal : 1.57 - Rapt with this as I thought I would be lucky to break 2:00

Ruapuna Dipper : 2:10

Bog stock standard Nissan GTS 4-door 2.0 SOHC (RB20e) - I couldn't even catch an EFI Sentra down the straight LOL.

Do better? Could do but I am putting my effort into my Starlet 

Compliance is the thing that can hurt, I had to get mine breath tested as it was pre 3-letter codes but I figured if it was being imported by car dealers then I should be able to get it to comply.

If it's dirty it may cost you a MAF clean.

If it has certain non standard items on it like adjustable suspension I was told these are another item which will require a replacement.

I was also told I would need new brake pads all-round but I skipped this and it passed.

Other costs.

Money transfer - $25 I think

GST is charged on all imports

Compliance cost is anther charge call someone for exact cost and this will include wof

Registration costs

Cost included was shipping to a compliance centre of my choice.

I imported a car from there a while back total cost approx NZ$5300 and on sold for NZ$8500 which was selling for $9990 in car yards.

I did my homework over about 2 months and what I found the good ones sell quickly.

I chose a car that had matching tires and wear, no oil leaks, clean underside, no curbing damage, not dents and the interior was spotless.

You need to be able to spot things from photos and not everyone can.

Another that I had heard was not to buy from certain ports and of course the last warning, it depends on the car you are buying, some are terrible for being mistreated and some are bad for rust.

In general if its a luxury car with matching tires and no oil leaks and low mileage it has a better chance of being looked after compared to a 2-door turbo with mismatched tires. No different from here in NZ

Would I do it again, yes. Was I lucky, maybe but then I feel no more luckier than buying a car locally.

The gear drives used to be colour coded, unsure of the replacement parts but they match the diff ratio and wheels

Merge like a zipper they say... farkme here in Christchurch heaps of people obviously have buttons and they are one hole out or more!

I am thankful for driving a <$2k car as they usually giveway after I keep moving left or right depending. I will give way to indicators but not Morons.

I am with others.

The 3s-ge has a pretty good learning ecu in the lower rev range, cruising = lower revs.

The only change done was an oxy sensor which from description several had the same error prior.

Could it be wiring? when warmed up it leans out?

I think some cars start to look like their owners, Demio's is an example as they slowly get wrinkles, I was sitting at home one day and heard this almighty scraping noise and looked out to see a little old woman stop, walk around the car then get back in and drive off, completely missing the road cone jammed under her car!

 I witnessed a road rage case one day when i was driving my truck, it happened on the straight south of Hampden, The guy was in a BMW and as I was cruising through Hampden just after  he over took me doing about 120-140km/h and nearly hit me and another person.

I have never used *555 until this day and the cops despatched a car from Oamaru.

I got about 5k's from Oamaru and he was upside down with police directing traffic, the biggest idiot I have ever seen on a road beat the previous one just! 

Or better do certain cars attract certain people and become an accessory to their cloths?

And for a long car chase - the Monaro in Running on empty does ok for a 6 cylinder eh

RB20 right, not the SR20? 

 

You got a bargain!

Yea RB20E Engine, HR33 Chassis, not sure what they are worth.

Skyline R33 Manual, got mine for under 2k and in reasonable nick, I fixed the boot leaks and now much nicer car. It also came with 16" mags and half decent sounds as well. It had the basic SOHC 2.0 and compared to big brother it has stuff all power but has enough for what I need as a daily and handles well. 

It was good to be working on the Starezza again.

I have a bit more to do, top arm and otherside brakes but